Help, NO swirls after polishing!!!

I

imported_beachwolverine

New member
Sorry to tag on the the title of a previous thread, but I had just the opposite experience and wanted to ask if I'm missing something.



This was my first full detail with a PC. My wifes car - 2004 Honda Pilot, metalic gray, moderate swirls. I first tried PO106FF with white pad and the swirls were still there. I moved up to IP with an orange pad with the assumption I would have to finish off with PO106FF and the white pad. HOWEVER, after the IP/orange I could not see any swirls AND I did an IPA wipe down before examining (thanks to reading a lot on this forum, I know about these things). I examined this with halogen, but did not go outside into the sun. My question is - Is it possible to use IP/orange on what is probably soft paint and not need the PO106FF/white finishing step? Or are my eyes simply not educated enough to see what the pros see. Just wondering what the pros have to say.



I used the IP/orange at 5-6.



Yes, I know this is worthless without pictures, but I didn't take any. :)



Thanks,

Scott
 
You pretty much nailed my routine for Honda/Acura paint correction. However, I do finish with FPII + white, and my guess is you would appreciate the difference even if the halogens aren't highlighting any imperfections.
 
Could go either way. If you see no hazing under both halogens and in the sun, you're good to go. I usually finish off with IP/white if there is even the slightest hint of hazing as it's quick and doesn't take long. I have finished down with IP/SIP/Orange before and it is not unheard of. Just make sure it actually did finish down correctly, though.
 
it will take about 45 min to an hour to hit it with fpii, and give you a more crisp finish, remove any hazing, and make the overall appearance that much better....DO IT!
 
Whenever I get a great finish with orange pads, and think things are ready-to-wax...I'm always blown away by how much an "unnecessary" finish-polishing improves things. And as soon as I think the finish-polishing got things as good as they can get, I find that a subsequent "jeweling" pass improves them even more.



You don't always notice how imperfect a finish is until you improve it ;) There's more to a great finish than the absence of discernable marring.
 
Accumulator said:
Whenever I get a great finish with orange pads, and think things are ready-to-wax...I'm always blown away by how much an "unnecessary" finish-polishing improves things. And as soon as I think the finish-polishing got things as good as they can get, I find that a subsequent "jeweling" pass improves them even more.



You don't always notice how imperfect a finish is until you improve it ;) There's more to a great finish than the absence of discernable marring.
Click to expand...



+1



You may have removed the defects and leveled the paint to your eye (which will produce an amazing finish) but there is more to be had, IMO. As accumlator put it PERFECTLY, you notice how imperfect it is and how much better it can get until you try.



FPII on a white pad will definetly bring it up to a new level (only short of a rotary and a finishing pad, IMO)
 
Like Todd and Accum said, definitely follow up with a lighter polish+pad. In fact, even after I do that, I will follow up with something like Poli-Seal or ZAIO on a white pad. These products will furthur burnish the paint after you use your finishing polish and the wax/sealant that they contain will also add to the look. Not to mention, they provide a slick base for your LSP to glide on over.



If one thing has changed from this detailing season to previous ones, it is the addition of this final step, and my results are better than ever. :)
 
Yup, the last 3 posts are dead on. Finish it off with the FPII, then rewash it to remove any lubes left behind by the MenzIP then go back with the AIO and finish off with your LSP and the results will blow you away even more.



I just got off a Carbon Black M5 that I thought was LSP ready and went back to jewel the finish just to find out there was a slight haze that I could not see with my eyes till it was removed.....



Glad I did the final step.:waxing:



Josh
 
I plan to use IP and FPII on my sisters Honda and bro-in-laws Toyota. I plan to start off IP/white just to start least aggressive, step up to IP/orange if I need more muscle (cars deffinately need some work) and then finish with FPII/white. I've heard from a lot of people here that FPII creates some amazing gloss. So I plan to use it regardless of if there's any hazing left to remove.
 
Thanks everyone - great advice - I really appreciate this forum.



Answering hngu7721 - I put a bead around the outside of the pad and spent quite a bit of time on each section - at least 10-15 passes. It was my first time and I found it difficult to go as slowly as I should. I had to keep telling myself to slow down. It definitely got oily and pretty much disappeared. Does spending more time make it less likely you mar the finish?



edit: hngu, just realized you are the one that started the similar thread - interesting difference, eh? I should add that I did this in very humid conditions which may have helped by preventing or delaying drying. I'm new to this, the experts can help far more than I.



Thanks again,

bw
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top