One tool I see "missing" is some type of breaker-bar for removing rusted-on rims from the rotor/drum. I`ve used a brake tool that looks like a round tapered pry bar with a small crescent-shaped hammer head that I could use like a wedge to get between the rim and rotor mounting face and pry it off. Hitting it with a rubber-faced hammer was useless. I also used some type of thread rust solvent (Liquid Wrench) to loosen/dissolve the corrosion to aid in getting rusted-on wheels/rims off of rotors/drums. I then follow with a thin coating of axle/bearing grease applied on the rim mounting surfaces to prevent this from happening in the future. Here in the upper Midwest, this is a common problem because of:
1) Use of salt to melt snow/ice on roads in the winter; and
2) Vehicle owners who may rotate tires/wheels once every three years due to few miles they drive in a year to necessitate tire rotation, OR
3) Vehicle owners who NEVER rotate tires because they choose not to due to ignorance or lack of financial resources.
Many vehicle owners find this out the hard way when they suffer a flat tire for whatever reason at the most inopportune time. (Usually in the winter in sub-zero weather because the owner NEVER checks their tire pressure, which can vary by 1 PSI per every 10°F in ambient temperature. I see this a lot in which tires look like they are about to fall off a rim, and it will when they turn a sharp corner.)
That leads in to another question:
Should you apply oil or thread ant-seize compound to wheel studs??? One way to know is to read the owner`s manual. Most manufacturer`s will say NOT to do this.
I tend to disagree for the reasons mentioned above, BUT I do know that use of either oil or anti-seize compound WILL affect the torque reading of wheel lug nuts when tightened, as most manufacturers take their measurements or calculations based on dry (un-lubricated) studs and lugs nuts because they are new.
I also know that those who have aluminum or alloy wheels are advised to check the lug tightness after about 50-100 miles of driving if the wheels have been removed for whatever reason (new tire installation on an original/tire rotation/ or re-installation of a wheel after a flat tire repair). If you, again, check the owner`s manual , you`ll find information verifying if this needs to be done. I only say this because I found out the hard way on my Subaru Outback with aluminum rims after having the tires rotated and I could feel a vibration in the front end through the steering wheel. Even using the wheel lug wrench that came with the car is an easy way to check it, and tightening by hand and guessing at the torque is better than having lug nuts left loose, as it will cause the rim countersunk edge of the clearance hole that the lug nut mounts against to become egg-shaped or develop stress-cracks around them, because aluminum alloy wheels is a "soft" material, and with this vibration , if allowed to continue for too long, will ruin the rim.
) who could do stuff with their bare hand that most people can`t do with a micrometer.