Help me decide on polishes and waxes to buy for my PC!

[richydelsolsir]

I'm a bit of a lurker, but i'm after some advice.



I got my PC in August/september last year along with a set of Sonus SFX pads (yellow, white, and blue). I already had the Meguires 3 step system - with nxt substituted for the canurba wax - in my collection so I've been using those up:



* Step 1 on the Yellow pad

*Step 2 on the White pad

*NXT on the blue pad



This has given me pretty good results on mine and my parents cars, but not perfect, I can't get out some swirl marks no matter what I try, I assume the consumer range of Meguires products aren't really suited to the PC.



I've now started valet/detailing part time for some extra cash and this has used up the Megs very quicky so I'm after some new stuff



I would like something more effective at removing swirls and hiding/removing minor scratches. as well as some stuff to improve the depth of the shine that's longer lasting than NXT! If it comes in bulk that'd be a bonus as I'm getting work quite regularly now (maybe I'm charging too little!)



Many MANY thanks in advance



Richard



P.S. What's a decent product to use on plastic bumpers (fenders?) tyres and wheel wells? currently I'm using the wholly inappropriate Megs natural plastic shine?

 

[sevenrd]

I've recently had great success using Menzerna IP and also SSR 2.5 with the yellow SFX pad. I too had decent results in the past, but there were still little spider webs that I just couldn't get out. Actually, I think it's a combination of the aforementioned polishes, and my finally getting the technique of using the PC down.



Using an SFX yellow pad and IP, I finally got rid of every last swirl on the hood of my wife's car last weekend, and today got rid of every last swirl on my car using a yellow SFX pad and SSR 2.5. Initially, I wasn't getting the results I wanted. Most of the swirls were gone, but there were ones that just didn't seem to go away. I decided to pick a problem area and focus on that spot alone. I worked the polish in for 30-40 seconds with the PC on 3-4. Once the polish started hazing a bit, I cranked up the PC to 6. I worked slowly and deliberately on the area - making at least 4 - 5 passes in each direction. Once done I inspected the spot and the webbing was finally gone! Finished up with FPII on my wife's car, SSR 1 on mine. Both then topped with AIO and SG.



I like the Klasse twins, and you should get nice longevity out of them, but for more depth you may want to try a nice carnuba topper. There are many. Currently I'm using FK Pink Wax and Natty's blue for my carnubas. I like them both.



Hope some of that helps.

 

[toml]

You're going to get a ton of opinions on both polishes and LSPs. For the polishes, you've got to think about whether you want "sun friendly" polishes or if you'll be able to do most of your polishing in the shade. If you want a sun friendly polish, then PB's SSR 2.5 should be able to tackle most marring. For many, it also leaves the finish ready for the LSP, and you don't need the added step of a lighter polish to remove any micro-marring or hazing from the more abrasive polish. So, if you decide to go the SSR 2.5 route, you probably don't need to get SSR 1 as well. Do a search and you'll see ...



Now, you may want a polish that you can buy locally and not through the Internet. For Megs products, #80 does a good job on the light marring, but for those stubborn swirls, you'd have to go with something more abrasive like #83 (DACP). These are two of their "professional" polishes. #80 is easy to use; #83 requires a learning curve. There are others here who like the Mothers polishes.



And that's just the tip of the polishing iceberg. But seriously, first decide whether you want OTC (over the counter) products or not and whether you want a sun-friendly polish or not. Then do some searching, read some reviews (see "review!" link at top of page), etc. BTW, I've used #80, #83, SSR 2.5, and now Optimum's polish and compound. I like Optimum's long working time and no dusting, so that's what I've settled on, but that's just me.



If you want strictly a chemical cleaner (your step 2?), AIO or VM are excellent.



In terms of LSPs, you need to decide if you want to go a sealant or carnauba route. Sealants typically last longer; carnauba tends to add warmth and depth. Some LSPs are ridiculously easy to apply (UPP comes to mind) while others (SG) require specific application techniques or they'll be a bear to remove.



Much of the LSP choice comes down to what looks best on the particular paint. On my metallic grey Accord, I started with AIO topped with UPP. The combo had good depth and shine, but it wasn't quite what I was looking for. I then started using VM with CMW (Carnauba Moose Wax), and wow, that was what I was looking for. So, you may have to do some experimenting, or you may want to find a combo that looks reasonably good on all paints. Also, check out the Click and Brags of members (Scottwax, GSRstilez, White95Max, etc) here to see what combos they're using, and see if you like the look.

 

[toml]

P.S. What's a decent product to use on plastic bumpers (fenders?) tyres and wheel wells? currently I'm using the wholly inappropriate Megs natural plastic shine?

For tires and wheel wells, AA (Armor All) is a good OTC product ... cheap, fairly matte finish. However, I've noticed a small bit of sling from the tires with AA. PB's BnB doesn't sling and seems to last longer, but I can only get it through the Internet, and it's more expensive. So, I use BnB on the tires and AA to dress the plastic pieces in the wheel wells.



I couldn't tell you what to use on the plastic bumpers ... maybe just clean it with something like AIO or VM and dress it with a non-staining sealant like UPP? That's what I do on the plastic windshield piece and other plastic trim on my car.

 

[Dave Pickett]

Ah ha you have escaped from the MX5 forum too!!!! :welcome



Anyway, I find #80 speedglaze with a white pad does all the polishing I need when the paint needs minor swirls removing or just really brightening up. It does cut (but VERY little) so if as on most of my cars the paint is already good I like RMG or VM, these applied witha soft pad (black or red in my case)



The technique with 80 in particular is put on, spread round at low speed (3 ish) then move to 5-6 and buff until virtually gone. Move the PC slowly over the paint and make several passes. I use a terry towel to remove 80 and I gaurantee you that you will be wowed with the increase in gloss. RMG and VM similar, but dont need to buff out as much.



If 1 pass of 80 doesnt get it, do another! To me its safer than going fora more aggressive product, and I have yet to work on a car than needs anything more aggressive.....



You will also find 4" pads are worth their weight in gold for paint correction or getting in tight places.



The MX5 is one of the easiest cars to polish by machine i put a layer of NXT on using my battery polisher and buffed of in just over 6 minutes....



For longer lasting finish I like poorboys EX or EXP both can be used by PC and in the sun...

 

[Accumulator]

I'm a bit of a lurker, but i'm after some advice.



I got my PC in August/september last year along with a set of Sonus SFX pads (yellow, white, and blue). I already had the Meguires 3 step system - with nxt substituted for the canurba wax - in my collection so I've been using those up:



* Step 1 on the Yellow pad

*Step 2 on the White pad

*NXT on the blue pad



This has given me pretty good results on mine and my parents cars, but not perfect, I can't get out some swirl marks no matter what I try, I assume the consumer range of Meguires products aren't really suited to the PC...

Just a few notes about the above system, which I gather you're moving away from anyhow.



The Deep Crystal Step #1 is a nonabrasive chemical paint cleaner. No point in using it with an aggressive pad.



The Deep Crystal Step #2 is a nonabrasive "pure polish"/glaze.



That's why they aren't removing your swirls- they're nonabrasive. They work fine by PC, but they just don't have any cut. The DC#2 is an OK "concealing" product though, your marring is just more than it can handle. The Meg's product info doesn't really tell you how limited these products are...



I agree to try the #80, it's a good first forray into abrasive polishes. I use it at a higher speed, but the only real trick is to work it until it starts to go clear but don't work it until it's dry.



On the plastic bumpers, if they're painted body-color I just treat them like the rest of the paint. If they're black I either use AIO/SG or, if I want to use a dressing, AutoGlym's Bumper Care. Wheelwells I'd just treat like tires if they're black plastic, like paint if they're body color. Lots of choices for tires/etc. but I like Zaino Z-16.

 

[richydelsolsir]

Thanks for the ideas all, I understand that polishes and waxes are a subjective matter! but this all really helps thanks!



I'm thinking I'll probably go for #80 as I can get it from the UK and I can get it in larger quantities.



I had no idea that the consumer range of Megs doesn't actually have any cutting power, makes sense now that i think about it though!



I take it that #80 will remove some of the swirl marks etc, but isn't actually agressive enough to need anything over the top to remove marks that it leaves? barring a wax/sealant etc?



Just for more information, I'm after products that are sun friendly as I have no space in the garage to do any work in it! I'm also after maximum longetivity as I do doing detailing jobs on the side I'd like the work I do to have a long lasting effect and impress the customers.



Thanks also for the info on the non painted bumper/wheel well products, non-slinging is a new one on me, but a damn good point thanks!



Hi Dave, yeah I've escaped the OC forum, I think it's going a bit stale at the moment which is a shame :-(



How the hell do you put a layer of nxt on a 5 in 6 minutes tho? I race through the putting the wax on usually cos I'm bored and want to finish, but, it still takes me a good 20-30 minutes, does nxt not require any working in at all?

 

[Accumulator]

I had no idea that the consumer range of Megs doesn't actually have any cutting power, makes sense now that i think about it though!

That's a common mistake...Meg's sorta implies the those products can do things that they really can't.

I take it that #80 will remove some of the swirl marks etc, but isn't actually agressive enough to need anything over the top to remove marks that it leaves? barring a wax/sealant etc?

That is almost always true. Only unusually soft paints need a milder subsequent polishing.

Just for more information, I'm after products that are sun friendly as I have no space in the garage to do any work in it! I'm also after maximum longetivity as I do doing detailing jobs on the side I'd like the work I do to have a long lasting effect and impress the customers.

The "sun friendly" part could be tough. I'd consider finding some way to shade the vehicle, such as a collapsible tent or something similar.



For a very long lasting job, consider waxes from Collinite (don't know if you can get them across the pond) or see if Meguiar's still sells their #16 over there.

 

[Dave Pickett]

How the hell do you put a layer of nxt on a 5 in 6 minutes tho? I race through the putting the wax on usually cos I'm bored and want to finish, but, it still takes me a good 20-30 minutes, does nxt not require any working in at all?

I have a Halfords 12 volt battery polisher which I have converted to take normal pads. These are available as a set with a 12volt vac for £24.99 ATM so you get 2 batteries. Using this and NXT and not doing the bottom half of the sides (cos its all ripled) I can fly around the car in the time stated, then just wipe off. NXT does need working in but the polisher does that for you. (the pc is of course equally good for this but I use the battery one when I cant be 4rsed to get the PC and transformer out.



Of course the car is kept well clean so its only a case of putting the last step stuff on.



Will post picture of the polisher tonight, its not fast or powerful enough for defect removal but it is good for putting on a top layer of your choice.....and with 2 batteries it can do several cars (which is useful cos I have a "fleet of 6!!!")

For reference it takes more like 40 minutes to do my Black Mondeo estate, its much bigger, and I have to use steps for the roof, and there's a lot more fiddly bits than the 5..

 

[richydelsolsir]

Thanks for that dave! I might have to get one of those toys



I think I'm going to go for the Megs #80 for now, along with a decent wax which I've not yet decided on. Need to choose soon tho as I've got 4 more cars lines up, (and that's after doing a Mistubishi Shogun today, bloomin massive car!)



I assume that for liht scratches I'll use the #80 on my white pad, but if something more stubborn comes along I use my yellow pad? or should I also get a stronger polish to complement my yellow pad?



TIA



Richy

 

[Dave Pickett]

As you say I find #80 ona white pad is fine for most things just go over it twice if it doesnt hack it. I use an orange pad with T cut if I am desparate, only had to use it on white paint so far which is blimmin hard! Have got a white polo coupe to do this afternoon - if it stops raining. Paint is dull but will try DC1 then 80 first before I get the T cut out.....