Haze after SSR 2.5

X

xspeed02

New member
I'm new to the whole PC craze. Last week I got a pc7424 with 4 VC pads, 1 orange, 1 blue, 2 white, and SSR2.5, SSR1, Red Moose Machine Glaze, and Carnauba Moose Wax. I have a black 2001 Mustang Cobra that has sat outside for the past 2 years in Ohio.



I finally got the garage cleaned out and I got to detailing the car today. I washed and claybared, then hit the hood with the orange cutting pad and SSR2.5. The car had a haze and swirl marks all over the hood, roof, and trunk. I did the hood twice with the SSR2.5 because I wasn't getting very good results. The paint was turning blacker and more reflective but the swirl marks were still there under the flourescent light in the garage.



I came in to take a break and read some stuff saying to move the unit slowly as you work it in on speed 5. I go back outside and do the hood again and the rest of the car about an inch per second as suggested on the forums. The results are mostly great but I did notice a light haze on the hood. Is that what some of you guys call marring? Will that come off if I follow up with SSR1?



I feel like I'm somehow doing the process wrong and I want to do as good of a job as possible the first time around. Any suggestions would be fantastic.



-Jim



edit: Tomorrow I had planned on following up with SSR1 on the entire car, then the Red Moose Machine Glaze, then finally the Carnauba Moose Wax. I think I use the white pads for the SSR1 and Red Moose Glaze, and I'll apply the wax by hand. Can anyone confirm if that's acceptable?
 
Don't be afraid to use significant pressure on the machine as you're polishing.

Don't be afraid to use speed 6.

Make sure to break down the polish completely.



:welcome to Autopia :wavey
 
White95Max said:
Don't be afraid to use significant pressure on the machine as you're polishing.

Don't be afraid to use speed 6.

Make sure to break down the polish completely.



:welcome to Autopia :wavey
Click to expand...



I used pressure the 3rd time I did the hood, and I did manage to use 6, but the speed was really shaking my hands bad. When you say break down the polish, that basically just means buff it out until it's a transluscent haze right? Fingers are pretty sore right now, wondering if I'll have it in me to finish the car up tomorrow lol. Those PC's sure do shake. The sides of the car look amazing, and I do admit the SSR2.5 really did brighten the car up, I'll see what happens when I follow it up with SSR1 tomorrow. The car won't be sitting outside anymore so if the car needs additional work later on I'll tackle it with SSR2.5 again. Also, I'm not going to need to apply pressure during the glaze phase right? You're just basically spreading the stuff in? Do you need to break the product down like the SSR's? Thanks for the welcome, I'll probably be sticking around for a long time. :waxing:
 
xspeed02 said:
When you say break down the polish, that basically just means buff it out until it's a transluscent haze right?



Also, I'm not going to need to apply pressure during the glaze phase right? You're just basically spreading the stuff in? Do you need to break the product down like the SSR's? Thanks for the welcome, I'll probably be sticking around for a long time. :waxing:
Click to expand...



Yes, work it until it turns nearly transparent.



Glazes typically don't contain abrasives, so there is nothing to be broken down. It's just fillers and maybe some oils or cleaners in the product. Just spread it around to a thin, even coat.
 
Also, the orange pad will leave more marring than the white pad. Finishing with a less aggressive pad (like white) can leave you a marr-free finish.



For example, you can remove swirls with SSR2.5/orange pad, and finish with SSR2.5/white pad...this works well on lighter colours.



Though, typically, on dark colours you'll need to finish with a finishing polish like SSR1.
 
Yes it's very difficult to remove swirling without creating some hazing. Following with a polishing pad and make a few passes until the polish is broken down as described above. Your Cobra's going to look super awesome. Like Paul said you don't need to use any pressure when applying a glaze.
 
Just finished with the SSR1 and the haze is gone. Time for the Red Moose Glaze and the Wax! Thanks a ton again guys.
 
I have a new problem. Apparently my neighbor's cat snuck into the garage when the door was up (when I took a break or something) and to my horror I woke up to my neighbor knocking on my door. The cat was in the garage ALL NIGHT LONG. I have a long history with this cat, it has walked all over the car and put scratches in it in the past, so I promised myself I would clean out the garage should I ever get the car buffed out. Well to my horror the cat put new scratches in my freshly detailed paint and I am so ridiculous livid I can't see straight. What is the best way to repair this? I think SSR1 will work, but is there anything special I should do? I figure I'll slap a white pad on it and rebuff the entire top of the car (the only visibly affected part of the car where it was able to walk on) and then reglaze it and rewax the entire car (just because). Is this the proper way to repair the damage? Thanks again guys. I'm quite upset after I spent the past 2 days detailing it...
 
If you can feel the damage with your fingernail then you will have to add some paint on top and buff it out so it looks even.
 
VwGti said:
If you can feel the damage with your fingernail then you will have to add some paint on top and buff it out so it looks even.
Click to expand...



The scratches aren't that deep at all. They are real fine and almost look like a hollogram. I was just mainly curious if the SSR1 will break down all the glaze and wax I put on it yesterday. I'm sure it most likely will. I'm just concerned about wasting materials at this point.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top