Have I found the limit of my PC??

A

AndyC_1

New member
Suspect this may be a "yes" as it basically struggled to remove swirls and scratches from the front of a Ferrari (black) yesterday, even using IP on a purple Meguiars pad.



I've never found a defect that careful use of the PC couldn't shift so I was really disheartened, esp as my rotary skills are, ahem, rudimentary so say the least.



Should I opt for a Cyclo as opposed to trying to master the rotary or is it time to take a deep breath and go rotary??
 
Take a deep breath and go for the rotary. I found myself in a similar position to you when detailing the Vantage that I did recently. The PC just wasn't going to get all the marks out, and what's more, I was getting fed up with how long it was taking to achieve results.



I received my Makita a couple of weeks ago and whilst I haven't really played with it yet, I did jump straight in with SSR2.5 and an orange pad to remove some swirls from my own car. Whilst I felt like a total amateur again, I didn't feel anymore uncomfortable with the rotary than I did with the PC when I first got it. I think it's just a case of practice makes perfect.



I think as long as you respect a rotary and are prepared to put up with the odd buffer hop here and there to start with, you'll soon get the hang of it and won't look back at the PC - at least that's what I'm hoping to do.



Have a read through this thread (http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12377) and then just go for it - that's what I've got to do on Tuesday when I detail a very neglected E320 cabrio.



What I've found so far is that you don't want to put any presssure whatsoever on a rotary and also, tilt the pad ever so slightly. Not so much that you're only buffing on one edge of the pad, but just enough to show it who's boss and give it an idea of what direction you want it to go in.



Ben
 
Thanks mate - appreciate that you're busy getting things up & running but any chance we could hook up at some point so you can give me some hands-on pointers?



Cheers
 
Maybe a little 'rotary meet' is in order here... I'd also like to share views with other rotary users - I can bring along my Makita along with pads/products... it's all very well reading posts on how to use a rotary, but there's nothing like seeing with your own eyes then having a practice whilst it's still fresh in your mind.



I've done no damage whilst using my rotary, but I do get a bit of hop and plenty of splatter! I could see myself hardly ever using the PC if I could just minimise the hop and splatter.
 
I found the limits of mine (pc) about a month back when polishing out a renaultsport clio. All swirls were removed but it was struggling with spider webbing. Using DACP and a 4 inch pad on speed 6 and very slow passes was kinda doing the trick but I would have been there all week!



I too would like to try a rotary
 
Just a little food for thought here, and yeah, I use a rotary; took it right out of the box and used it on my nearly-new Audi S8, so I'm not too nervous about this tool ;)



But when working on customer cars like the Ferrari, you sure don't want to have an "oops". They're only original once, and having to have anything like that repainted just isn't an option. A successful pro who posts here (can't remember who it was) once said something like "on a Honda I use the rotary, but on a Ferrari or an Aston Martin, I use the Cyclo".
 
Lowejackson said:
Ben, what rotary did you buy and are they any issues with different screw sizes (for the backing plate)
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I got the Makita and so far no problems. The velcro backing plate that comes with it isn't that bad, and Meguiar's make backing plates with the appropriate spindle sizes. Edge 2000 also do an adapter for UK rotaries as well...



Ben
 
Brazo said:
Guys whats the difference between say the makita and a cheaper version? Is it soft start and rpm?
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No idea, I just got the Makita because it's one of the ones to have and I like the fact that the speed wheel is on the handle, not at the back a la PC. It's also soft start and feels exceptionally well made.



I also found some holograms (only little ones mind) in my paint today when looking at it in the sun. Well, I suppose it was to be expected considering I jumped straight in with SSR2.5 and a cutting pad!



Ben.
 
You could alternatively get a 4" pad and 3.5" backing plate if you want more power and heat. You can also try using something a touch more abrasive than IP. The smaller pad combo may not produce the results you want, so the investment of money and time in a rotary may be worth it in the long run.
 
The cheapest place I found the Makita is Screwfix at £169 - my idea of getting a rotary is disappearing very quickly.



My local garage has identified some serious rust on the rear chassis, cheapest quote so far is £450 plus VAT :bawling: I spent £400 last month to get it through the MOT :cry:
 
Lowejackson said:
The cheapest place I found the Makita is Screwfix at £169 - my idea of getting a rotary is disappearing very quickly.



My local garage has identified some serious rust on the rear chassis, cheapest quote so far is £450 plus VAT :bawling: I spent £400 last month to get it through the MOT :cry:
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That's where I got mine from. I toyed with the idea of shipping one over from the US as it's the classic rip-off Britain change the dollar for a pound sign price difference, but then thought about the warranty and also the fact that even though suppliers are fewer and further between, it would still be easier getting hold of 14mm backing plates etc over here than having to ship 5/8" ones over from the US all the time.



Ben
 
Having started out using a Dewalt DW443 random orbital machine, I was struggling to remove some etches and deep scratches using it. After that, I got myself a Makita and love this tool alot. It is alot more quieter than DW443/PC and it works alot more efficient. I tend to get micro-marring if I try to use DACP with DW443. So, I would limit myself to use Speed Glaze and waxes with DW443.
 
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