Has anyone used OXI-Clean to remove red/coffee stains?

A

autoprincess

New member
Someone suggested to me that Oxi-Clean :soscared: can remove red/coffee stains. Hard to believe because I have not yet come accross anything that has worked to remove it at least to my liking. They suggested the Oxi-Clean spot/stain remover will work. Before I tried and wasted time/money has anyone tried it and had any luck?
 
http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71933



this thread covers the basics of what you can expect, btw. Oxi clean works (albeit poorly) on the same process as the two part chemical in the thread i just linked.



The key is red relief is for natural dyes, Stain magic is for sythetic dyes. use the steps i outlined in the thread and you should see some major improvement.



Remember sell the improvement not the removal.



under promise over deliver when it comes to stains. each is different.
 
Thanks, but no real help. I saw that thread. I have seen/used the stain product that you are referring to but I expect professional results and was not satisfied with the result. Thanks for you help though.



I understand that these types of stains actually "dye" the carpet and that it is really a lost cause, but with the commercials I have seen on TV they advertise it to be some wonderful miracle stain remover. I have used many products for these types of stains but when the end result is to return the vehicle to the customer I am disapointed with the big red stain that craps on my hard work.



I think I will eventually give it a shot, just wanted to see if anyone has already used it for these types of stains.
 
Well Like i pointed out in that thread those two products, redrelief, and stain magic have a very limited working time.



5 min. on top of that if you mis mix them they are useless. So fine mixing beaker/pipet is a must.



I generally mized 10cc each then put it in a squeeze tube topped bottle.



One is I believe about 45% hydrogen peroxide, and the other is a catylyst to speed up the chemical break down of the dyes. Hence the very short working time of the two. When you add steam and heat that chemical reaction accelerates and further decreases the working time. but it is nessisary to achieve the best results.



It's hard to emphisise how importent those steps i outlined are. These chemicals are the best in the industry but they are finicky. as your sig says. "Auto detailing is an art it's not for everyone" So are these chemicals.



step one would be light spritzing with a comercial slurry agent. Ie point blue, clean green, dry slurry. Lightly brush in. very lightly. The idea is not to scrub but to besure the detergent is coating all the fiber surface it can. Scrubbing will not likely produce a noticible beninifit for you. It will how ever give you that rubbed mark shown in your picture above. many times those are permant. Trust me the chemical will do far more evenly distributed in 20 min than an hour of scrubbing will gain you.





Rinse out with a fiber rinse. this will offset the ph of the slurry Cleaner, which is a must for these kinds of soils. usually a good slurry will run a 10 on the ph scale, as we are dealing with a synthetic fiber there is nothign wrong with that. the fiber rinse will usually be a 3.5 or a 4 on the ph scale. bringing the fiber as close to ph of 7 as you can.



3rd step is to rinse again with water. yep because the fiber rinse will interfere with the two part red remover.



Dry stroke like mad... remove as much trace of moister you can.



Now start your 2 part red remover following the guidelines i mentioned about it above.



some times it helps to let it sit for more than 5 min. but just so you know the complete chemical reaction happens in little over 5 min... so if you let it sit you'll need to ad more before you apply the heat.



the final most critical thing is to be absolutely sure you put equal parts of the two in your 2 part solution mix.
Click to expand...



On a side note, there are a dozen if not dozens of dozen things that can set the dyes permantly. Unless dealt with. Knowing what you used, what your customers used and how to remove them before heat is applied is paramount. Before you try a chem like this you must get the fiber to as "virgin" status as you can.



highly acitic stuff like vinager, or highly alkaline stuff like seltzer water will set these stains in nothing flat. But depending on the fiber type you can get some of them out. IE if it is a poly, olefin, or solution dyed nylon then you will have some success.



if it is a skien/dip dyed nylon... the stain is likely permanant, the best you can hope for is a percentage of removal.
 
So, Grouse



If you put all your methods and proper mixing into removing these stains on a scale of 1-10 how happy are you with the results. 1 being low 10 being high. Sounds like you are familiar with these types of stains and using different mixing methods to remove them. Sounds like your opinion to me would be a good one. If you don't mind, if you had to remove the stain in the linked thread above how would you rate the end result of your personal happiness with the stain being removed?
 
Okay i'll try and address them each one at atime here.



If you put all your methods and proper mixing into removing these stains on a scale of 1-10 how happy are you with the results.
Click to expand...



As an overal in my career I was extremely happy with the products. If i got a percentage out instead of fully out i would often clean the spot (ie rinse it out) and leave pro's choice urine stane remover sprizted on the stain with a clear plastic bag over it. (lets light in and keeps moisture in). PCUS is 45% hydrogen peroxide. It acts in the same way your asking about oxi clean. in an 8-10 hour period it can help lighten things further. After that it has broken down to water. for reference normal OTC hydrogen peroxide at your local drug store is 3%.



If you don't mind, if you had to remove the stain in the linked thread above how would you rate the end result of your personal happiness with the stain being removed?
Click to expand...



I assume your asking me if i used my steps and process and I was left with that stain above? in that condition? If that is your premise then i would be fine with how it came out. I would not have over sold it, I would have prepped the customer, I'm not charging for it as i never charge for stain or spot removal, I had tried the best practices i could, I had tried the best products on the market, I had inquired about what the customer had used, i had rinsed the fiber to as near a virgin state as possible. With all that in mind. there is nothing more i could do. The stain is likely a permant one.



His mistake in that i think was using pros choice's red relief and not their stain magic. As it was soda, and soda contains synthetic dyes not natural. That being the case it may explain why the stain is orange not red.



BTW, both of these product work on RED stains, orange is not red, blue is not red, green is not red. sadly I have had hit and miss performance on colors other than red and (for urine stain remover ) yellow.



The key is practice, and work. Like polishing the more of these you do the more successfull you are at them. When i would train guys I would prep everything and let them controll the heat. after about 15-20 good sized stains i taught them to mix, and clean the Iron. another 15-20 i taught them how to prep the stain and get it to a near virgin state. It's an involved process. Don't give up.
 
PS coffee stains are a natural dye, they are best removed by MINIMAL heat over a longer period of time 7-10 min with red relief. That is the correct one to use for caffinated coffee.



DECAF is different. It has a syntetic brown dye in it. Yep you guessed it. red relief will not work on decaf allways ask. In the case of decaf they make it harder by using many different dyes to make that perticular brown they want. Add into it the coffee is usually hot when spilling which helps somewhat to set the dyes. So for decaf you use stain magic and higher heat. If it only come a % you'll have very good luck applying the USR i mentioned above for about 8-10 hours. Besure to cover it with clear plastic bag... (make sure there is no writing on the bag.)
 
You have a very interesting mixture and step procedure. Very unique and impressive I might say. I agree with you on not charging of those types of stains. I don't charge for them either just because I am never happy (to my standard) with the results. Like you said it is hit and miss on different ones, I have better luck with coffee stains, just a lot of work and pain to do.
 
It is, and can be. The key is identifying them and working them into your process when you have downtime. IE when your waiting for something else, but after you have prepped the fiber.



I never said it was easy, just possible. If this stuff was easy we would not have work now would we. :P Part of this is the reason why i am very interested to visit auto, boat, rv detailing as a buisness for me. I have alot of skill that many in this industry do not have. Given time i can gain those i need.
 
Same boat here as far as unique skills. Red/coffee stains is something I am learning about/trying to improve on.



Laziness is a good money maker for me and you, because some people just want to sit and pay to have something easy taken care of. Like you said that is where we come in. It was a pleasure exchanging knowledge with you, more on your side and less on my side. But a pleasure.
 
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