hail damage - pdr vs replace hood

T

theliman

New member
Hi guys!

Thought I`d get the opinion of detailing experts as I decide which direction to move in in repairing my car.

I have a black 2008 4Runner that suffered some hail damage last year...hood, top of the car, a little on the sides (stating the obvious). I`m not super concerned about the top, as it`s mostly out of site. Maybe I`ll fix it, maybe I won`t.

I am wondering about the hood though. I think it will be a little over $1,000 for PDR, which, I *believe*, is getting close to the price of just replacing the hood. Which I wouldn`t mind doing because I have some old sap damage, a few rock chips, scratches, etc.

The PDR guy said aftermarket paint is never as good as factory. However, he also noted that my hood`s paint quality was so poor (I know Toyota`s is crap) that maybe it had already been replaced (it hasn`t). He said there just isn`t much orange peel. So when I asked him if he thought I should replace since it`s not great paint to start with, or PDR with him, he thought it was a toss-up.

Thank you guys for any help you can offer! Also, if I do replace, anything else I need to know? Places in Denver that do good work?
 
I own two Toyotas, and I don`t think their paint is crap. I think it`s soft, but not crap. Can not help you as far as places in Denver, but fixing a hood can be problematic due to the support structure underneath. If it were my vehicle, I would replace the hood. You may be able to find one in a salvage yard in good shape, and save yourself some money.
 
I am in Denver, and I would replace the hood. I know some DAMN good PDR guys, and the hood is their least favorite.

With that said, GT Car Shop Inc is a good place. Nylund’s Collision Center is a very high end shop that I have taken my own vehicle to and was pleased.
 
thank you all for your time and advice. replacing makes sense to me, just didn`t know if black is especially hard/costly to blend or aftermarket paint really is bad. shakinghorizons i will look at those places!
 
First off, black is BY FAR the easiest color to match/blend. Won`t have an issue there.

And as long as the prep is done right and you have a good painter, aftermarket paint can be just as durable and last just as long (if not longer) than your factory paint system. It`s all about who is doing the work and if they do it properly. Yes there are aftermarket paints that aren`t worth a damn and won`t last long, but there is everything from the crap, to show quality aftermarket paint systems available. Find a good shop that uses high quality products and you won`t have anything to worry about (don`t even bother with Maaco).

I never understood this "aftermarket paint is never as good as factory" stuff. Not the first time I heard it.
 
As for what you should do, replace the hood. You can even probably find one in a junkyard and have it repainted rather than buy new. I would NEVER spend $1000 for PDR. Its great for the occasional dent here and there, but for an entire panel covered in hail damage... Heck no. Shouldn`t even be a question
 
New hood and a good body shop will have no problem matching your paint. A good body shop can do a better than factory paint job if you are willing to pay for it. Most of the time a customer won`t want to pay the price for an excellent paint job with at least two coats of clear. Most folks just "take it to MAACO" and get the cheap job.
 
Why buy a brand new OEM hood for a 2008 vehicle? Save a ton of money and get either an Aftermarket or Used hood. Could be 1/2 the price...
 
I agree with the consensus. Go find a used OEM hood and have it shot. You can likely find a black one, which won`t need to be sprayed on the bottom. The quality of OEM versus aftermarket is night and day. Better metal, MUCH better corrosion protection, and better fit all around.

I`ve known insurance companies that will save $25 on a fender buying third world country units that end up paying twice as much in labor to get it to fit! It happens al the time in fact. Body lines don`t line up, mounting holes don`t line up, and a LOT of them can be nightmares. Of course some are better than others, but I`d go get a "reconditioned" part (buzzword for used OEM) and have it sprayed and never look back. :cool:
 
The problem with PDR work is they have to get to the back of the dent to do the actual work, and hoods have an understructure support system pretty much all over the place and only a few places where you see the actual underside of the metal hood..

I`m wondering why you don`t want to just have a body shop fix your old hood, repaint it and it will fit the first time perfectly again ?
If it`s the original hood, then you know it will not have any "stories" about it that sometimes are horror stories, etc...

Or, as has already been suggested, take the time, go look for one at a recycler, etc., ebay, etc.. and hope for the best..

I need to ask my brother in Texas how they deal with all those busted up cars in car lots after their frequent baseball size hail storms...
Last one they had recently in San Antonio, he saw rows and rows of BMW`s with all their windows busted out and of course, craters all over the horizontal sheet metal... Bummer...

Be sure you contact ShakingHorizons who is in your area - at least you have another set of eyes and all his experiences there to help..
Good luck !
Dan F
 
good advice here, thanks. I have actually been looking for months for a hood on craigslist and watching the Toyota yards, no luck yet. really want to keep the hood scoop!

local guys suggested here gave me $1600 estimate including blending and new OEM hood (non-OEM was only $125 cheaper, so I`d stick with OEM). will take a look on Tuesday. the other guys mentioned quoted $2100.

does it maybe make sense to have a used hood of another color stripped and repainted? i figured it was a lot easier to paint a brand new one, but i guess they`re a lot more expensive too. that`s why I`m here!

thanks again, all!
 
Either way the hood will need to be painted... so used would be fine

have you thought about an insurance claim? It shouldn`t fall under collision coverage since I assume the car was parked.
 
cardaddy said:
I agree with the consensus. Go find a used OEM hood and have it shot. You can likely find a black one, which won`t need to be sprayed on the bottom. The quality of OEM versus aftermarket is night and day. Better metal, MUCH better corrosion protection, and better fit all around.

I`ve known insurance companies that will save $25 on a fender buying third world country units that end up paying twice as much in labor to get it to fit! It happens al the time in fact. Body lines don`t line up, mounting holes don`t line up, and a LOT of them can be nightmares.
Click to expand...

In all actuality, top tier Aftermarket parts from Keystone fit extremely well. Even with the same or better crash ratings then OEM. I know many shops that prefer to use them instead of a salvage part. And, Keystone guarantees a proper fit. Plus, once the salvage yard drops off a used hood pretty much every edge is scraped and banged up where the A/M part comes in a box like a new one.

cardaddy said:
Of course some are better than others, but I`d go get a "reconditioned" part (buzzword for used OEM) and have it sprayed and never look back. :cool:
Click to expand...

Reconditioned is a remanufactured part. Just like when you buy a starter, alternator, etc from a place like Pep Boys, O`Rielys or NAPA. Many times coming with a lifetime warranty. Used OEM is called LKQ (Like, Kind & Quality). These come directly from Salvage Yards.
 
I am using insurance in the sense that as soon as it happened I had my insurance look at the car and they cut me a check for $3k. They said that by accepting the money I was not forfeiting anything, so when I actually have the work done if it looks like it will cost more, the body shop can submit a form for me. When I actually went to a PDR guy for an estimate, he figured at least 5-6k total. I have a mild lift and you really just don`t see the roof much. There is one big one in front of the sunroof I wouldn`t mind fixing but I don`t know if I want them doing everything they have to to get to it. But the hood is obvious, to both me and others, so I`m definitely doing something with that.
 
David Fermani said:
In all actuality, top tier Aftermarket parts from Keystone fit extremely well. Even with the same or better crash ratings then OEM. I know many shops that prefer to use them instead of a salvage part. And, Keystone guarantees a proper fit. Plus, once the salvage yard drops off a used hood pretty much every edge is scraped and banged up where the A/M part comes in a box like a new one.
Click to expand...

Which is exactly what I said... "Of course some are better than others."

After owning a hi-line (rollback) towing business for almost 20 years (been retired for 12)... been there, done that. ;) Spent many hours, many days, in body shops, dealerships, you name it.

Keystone has some good parts, although not ALL of them fit like the shops would like. Had to have more than one fender replaced on my daughters car, (Pontiac G6 GTP) a few years back. She kept the shops IN BUSINESS for a few years there. OMG did she keep them in business!!!! :wacko: The LF fender was so bad, (along with a Keystone headlight that just didn`t match the 2 year old OEM one) that they ended up pulling them off and putting `crash parts` on. Still do business with that shop manager in fact (although he`s at Hennessy now), was there this week actually.


Same thing with LMC truck though on quality parts. I`d bet overall they make some pretty darned good stuff.


David Fermani;20520s24 said:
Reconditioned is a remanufactured part. Just like when you buy a starter, alternator, etc from a place like Pep Boys, O`Rielys or NAPA. Many times coming with a lifetime warranty. Used OEM is called LKQ (Like, Kind & Quality). These come directly from Salvage Yards.
Click to expand...

"LKQ" also doesn`t mean *everything* they sell is a salvage part. They also sell imported parts, straight off the boat. ;) There is a LKQ lot about 30 minutes from me, big one in fact.

As far as being around recyclers/dismantlers... my wife works at a nationwide salvage auction (sells entire vehicles `as is`) to the industry as a whole. She`s been there over 30 years, making sure all those titles are in order. ;)
 
theliman said:
I am using insurance in the sense that as soon as it happened I had my insurance look at the car and they cut me a check for $3k. They said that by accepting the money I was not forfeiting anything, so when I actually have the work done if it looks like it will cost more, the body shop can submit a form for me. When I actually went to a PDR guy for an estimate, he figured at least 5-6k total. I have a mild lift and you really just don`t see the roof much. There is one big one in front of the sunroof I wouldn`t mind fixing but I don`t know if I want them doing everything they have to to get to it. But the hood is obvious, to both me and others, so I`m definitely doing something with that.
Click to expand...
Well... not exactly a "form".

When/if it runs over the Insurance Estimate they have to submit a "supplement" to the company. Then they have to wait on approval, and only THEN (after approval) can they proceed with the repair.

I`ve got a vehicle back in the body shop now for them to fix the paint that never was right, (back from January/February). Shop manager thought it was going to take 24 hours, then I had to remind them the steering sector is popping now (after the accident). So now they`re having to submit YET ANOTHER supplement, wait on approval, and *maybe* by the end kf the week we`ll get the car back agsin.

(Third time its been there for the same repair!) :(

OTOH... Shop gave me a 2106 Yukon to drive in the interim.... works for me. :D

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 
Those estimates are ridiculous. My guy 500.00 tops. He takes it off the car (4 bolts) and couple hours sanding and blazing then done. IMHO 3000.00 would do the whole car.
 
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