GRAND FINALE -Optimum Opti-Coating - Durability Test Review!!!
- Thread starter David Fermani
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
What about plastic and rubber trim? I really like using KSG, and even (in some cases) FK1000P on those surfaces (though Ultima works well too and I'm open to the C4 stuff). And on some of my vehicles keeping LSP 100% off the trim would be problematic.
BostonDuce
New member
Accumulator said:
I applied it to black plastic trim and it never looked better.
Non staining, it only enhances the look. Just make sure that your prep removes any previous deposits.
BD
Accumulator
Well-known member
BostonDuce said:
Good, that's what I was hoping for!
Now what about rubber trim? Anybody try it on that? The TBSS has a *LOT* of rubber exterior trim...
Kean
New member
….I’ve been thinking about this as well. I would imagine rigidity of the component and the potential for flex are probably determining factors. ….bump for a real answer though from those that know.Accumulator said:
I thought I was excited about the C4 I recently acquired and just started playing with. Call me easily amused but the thought of only having to reapply to my trim every 6 months to 1+ years has me giddy. However, with the recent, public release of OOC and what I have heard about it’s contaminant shedding characteristics, resilience to cleaners, etc., the gears are really turning now in my head. I have been trying to absorb as much info as I can on this product.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Kean said:
Yeah, that's my concern exactly. No problems with KSG or Ultima's trim sealant, and I wouldn't expect any touble with C4 either. I was pretty well set on how I was going to do the TBSS, but the OptiCoat is intriguing.
But I'm not gonna try to fix something that's not broken unless I'm 100% confident that it's a step in the right direction. Getting at least 12-18 months is already pretty easy for me with my old approaches, given how my vehicles get treated. Some of the Ultima trim sealant on the beater-Audi has been on there a lot longer than that and is still fine.
Barry Theal
New member
accumulator,
I understand your one of the most anal retenitives son's of biitches I know. When your comparing your normal 18 months of protection versus opticoat, I think there is one thing you also have to factor in here. Dave is washing this with dawn on a weekly basis, plus running it threw an automatic carwash once a month. Im sure the enviroments he is putting this in is far more worse then what you do. Another thing to factor is this car is in florida under the baking sun ( where most carnuba's and synthetics melt off rather faster. Ill bet up here in our climates it will last a whole lot longer in durability if applied right. Why don't you get some and test it out for me and save me the coin. lol.
I understand your one of the most anal retenitives son's of biitches I know. When your comparing your normal 18 months of protection versus opticoat, I think there is one thing you also have to factor in here. Dave is washing this with dawn on a weekly basis, plus running it threw an automatic carwash once a month. Im sure the enviroments he is putting this in is far more worse then what you do. Another thing to factor is this car is in florida under the baking sun ( where most carnuba's and synthetics melt off rather faster. Ill bet up here in our climates it will last a whole lot longer in durability if applied right. Why don't you get some and test it out for me and save me the coin. lol.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Barry Theal- Yeah, comparing *MY* situation with anybody else's (even other Autopians) is kinda pointless.
I think that OptiCoat is *SO* right for guys like me (correct it once, then just wash the thing) that it could be good for *some* of my vehicles. I just have some "but what if..." questions that I don't want biting me.
I did get the OptiCoat, and I'm gonna use it on a set of wheels that have some "compromised clear along the rim edges" issues. I bet it'll be *perfect* for those. And I'm gonna use it on some suspension/etc. pieces too.
I think that OptiCoat is *SO* right for guys like me (correct it once, then just wash the thing) that it could be good for *some* of my vehicles. I just have some "but what if..." questions that I don't want biting me.
I did get the OptiCoat, and I'm gonna use it on a set of wheels that have some "compromised clear along the rim edges" issues. I bet it'll be *perfect* for those. And I'm gonna use it on some suspension/etc. pieces too.
RaskyR1
Rasky's Auto Detailing
Accumulator said:
I just gave my car a good polish and re-coated it this week. After going all winter with just touch-less washes and sitting out in the harsh winter I picked up some light marring....possible from brushing off snow.
Looks like a million bucks again now.
iPhone pic today....3 days after re-coating.
RaskyR1
Rasky's Auto Detailing
cptzippy said:
LOL....Keyboard FAIL!
Yes, polished and re-applied Opti-Coat.
RaskyR1
Rasky's Auto Detailing
cptzippy said:
I had it on for about 9 months and it was still beading like day one...I just wanted to remove the minor defects I picked up over the winter. The lowers had a lot of bonded surface contaminants and didn't bead quite as well, but that's what happens when you never actually hand wash the paint.
Greg Nichols
New member
Anthony Orosco said:
wannafbody said:
Alfisti said:
Chris@Optimum said:
Okay, I found the time to do a little testing of this idea. I had a few wipe down light swirls likely from a contaminated towel. So I got out the RED flat LC pad/pc/205.
after a few passes the slight swirls were gone, but the perky beads of the water were no longer perky they had flattened out. The coating is still there, the water is just slower to blow off or sheet off.
Conclusion(s)
1. 205 is much to abrasive even on a no bite pad than I originally thought
2. Opti coat is durable stuff!
3. I'm not sure I could get the slight swirls out with a less aggressive media. If the idea stands to remove marring is to "level" the surface below or at the level of the marring, then no matter what I use I have to follow that same line of thought, correct? If I used FFII I would still be removing the coating down to that level to remove the swirl.
4. The statement of a 9H on the mohs scale is hard to accept, that is much harder than quartz (7H).....diamonds are a 10H. IIRC I could use talc 1H and not scratch a 9H surface, I can scratch it with talc and little kinetic effort.
5. Don't plan on polishing without some measurable reduction in the properties.
6. The coating can be removed without too much effort using 105/300 and a cutting pad on a PC. I was much more worried I would have to break out the sanding disks!
After I've written all this I hope it provides you with some information, answers some questions. HOWEVER, this test does not provide any quantitative measurement (#s) of findings, but rather on a subjective qualitative measurement (value based) of the viewer.
Cheers,
GREG
Kean
New member
Thanks Greg. I guess one of the concerns I have is that I would need to completely remove the product in order to re-apply it (as the folks from Optimum have mentioned in discussions I've read). If I just have some minor blemishes I want to address, it appears I have no no other option other than buffing the entire panel if I happen to strike-through or diminish the product somehow while trying to correct my layer of OC (if that makes sense). This is probably the biggest factor that is preventing me from jumping on the product as my next LSP right now (although I will still end up getting it for some trim bits, wheels, etc.). If I had assurance the product could be layered on itself (even with a little "scuffing" with a mild polish beforehand) I would be completely sold. This would allow me to correct as needed and reapply (again, if needed) without the extra effort/worry.
Chris@Optimum
Optimum Product Support
Greg Nichols said:
Hi Greg
Th statement about 9H hardness was for the ingredients, of course this will vary depending on the surface it becomes a part of. Sorry for the confusion.
Sent from my iPad 2 viaTapatalk
Chris@Optimum
Optimum Product Support
Kean said:
Just to explain further about re coating an entire panel: Opti Coat is a "clear coat", you wouldn't "spot paint" without leaving a noticeable hint of your repair. Likewise, Opti Coat should be removed and applied to the nearest edges to prevent seeing an edge to where it was applied. Any aggressive polish will level it to the point that it can be reapplied. It's really not that difficult.
Sent from my iPad 2 viaTapatalk
Kean
New member
Chris@Optimum said:
Thanks Chris. I understand the explanation of having to abrade OC down to the factory clear before reapplication. ....again, that's part of my concern. I guess I may not be explaining it correctly. Correction on my own vehicles is usually relatively light and maybe 1 per year. ....with spot touch ups if needed in between for isolated areas. With OC it seems I will end up having to do a full correction or none (and having to worry about taking down the finish far enough that the product is completely removed prior to re-application). ....or maybe Im not understanding.
Accumulator
Well-known member
RaskR1 & Greg Nichols & (of course!) Chris@Optimum- I'm really learning from this discussion! Glad you guys are doing all this work and coming up with (and sharing) so much good info.
Kean- I think you and I have some of the same concerns. I have some "gotta use this stuff!" applications in mind, but I can't help but think of OptiCoat as a rather "special application" product, not necessarily something that we should all use on every vehicle in place of our usual LSPs :think:
E.g., fixing a single flaw (minor stuff, not even RIDS-serious) on a large panel is something I do every now and then, so I'm really glad that sort of thing got discussed.
Kean- I think you and I have some of the same concerns. I have some "gotta use this stuff!" applications in mind, but I can't help but think of OptiCoat as a rather "special application" product, not necessarily something that we should all use on every vehicle in place of our usual LSPs :think:
E.g., fixing a single flaw (minor stuff, not even RIDS-serious) on a large panel is something I do every now and then, so I'm really glad that sort of thing got discussed.
Kean
New member
I think we have similar thoughts about OC. I'm 90% sure at this point it is a product I will purchase but I'm still not sure the extent of it's use in my arsenal. I definitely have some ideas of what I will likely use it for though and I'm quite excited (regardless if it becomes my next LSP). ....wheels, some trim bits, etc. (since shelf life is not a concern from what I gather). I think the only way I will find out the true extent of its use (for me) will only be after I finally get some personal experience with it. I also agree that the wealth of input/information shared by users really helps (and is appreciated).Accumulator said: