cptzippy said:
Along the lines of the APC question, what about tar removers? Just ordered some Dodo Juice Tarmalade is what makes me wonder. Do I just need to use it for the prep or can (will I need to) use it after application?
Paint thinner and mineral spirits doesn't remove it. Paint remover will remove it.
Alexshimshimhae said:
would it have enough to cover a hummer ? (i think h3)
I could get an H3 done with one tube, but if your worried just do the paint first and only do the wheels and trim if you have enough left.
Accumulator said:
Chris@Optimum- Thanks for the additional info. Hmmm....I *can* imagine airbrushing it (old Paasche user here) on the underneath :think: I sure do appreciate how that'd help with regard to a uniform application, let alone dealing with the tight spots. Gee, I might want to try this on the good cars too! LSPing the underneath of the S8 is a huge hassle and this might be just
the ticket.
Greg Nichols- Glad to hear it holds up to potent cleaners so well!
For some reason I'm not ready to try it on the topside yet. I'm not 100% confident that it'd prove Accumulator-proof and anything less-than-perfect would really twist my tail.
I sure *WOULD* like to cut my time down (and I don't enjoy detailing nearly enough to consider it a "hobby"!), but eh....I'm still on my FK1000P kick for the drivers, and that stuff also allows me to do the DI rinse, at least to some extent. When it comes to the good cars, I'm so persnickerty about which LSP turns my crank that I don't want to change anything (stubborn fool that I can be

).
Put it on one wheel. That is all it will take to sell you on adding it topside.
frito said:
I am thinking about going this route on my new GTI. It already has a few coats of my standards like optiseal and collinite.
How can I should I prep the car first? Is IPA strong enough to prep the surface or should I take additional steps before application?
Also, since this cannot be reapplied, what does one do when it starts to wear off after its very extended life? Do you follow up with traditional products? Remove and reapply? Polishing off of wheels might be more difficult etc...
Opti-Coat is based on a resin pre-polymer that we manufacture and once it is applied, it cross links and reacts with urethane and other clear coat paints to form a permanent film. Opti-Coat has better chemical resistance, scratch & mar resistance, and release properties than any automotive coating in use. Like a regular clear coat, Opti Coat lasts indefinitely unless it is removed by polishing, sanding, or paint removers.
DIRECTIONS
1. Remove defects to your satisfaction
2. Clean surface to remove all polishing oils, waxes, and silicone.
3. Prime the applicator by making an X across the pad. Only a few drops will be needed for each subsequent panel.
4. Wipe Opti-Coat on a single panel at a time in a thin layer using several directions for even coverage.
5. Inspect the panel with adequate lighting withing 5-10 minutes looking for any thick areas that have not flashed away to clear.
6. Use applicator or paint safe microfiber to even out (no pressure)any spots where you see streaks. This step is key, as any spots not leveled will have to be abrasively repaired is allowed to cure. Panels will feel a bit tacky and will be self -leveling during cure time, so avoid any unnecessary touching, wiping, or contact to produce the best results.
7. Repeat steps 1-6 for each panel where application is desired.
NOTE: Take care to get complete coverage in your initial application as Opti Coat CANNOT be layered.
It doesn't "wear off", it's a coating not a nano sealant. No need for topping with other products, they won't stick to it anyway...anything you put on it will be gone in a couple of weeks. To remove you have to use a compound or aggressive polish and you have to remove in order to reapply.