GRAND FINALE -Optimum Opti-Coating - Durability Test Review!!!

I've been testing an alternate "permanent coating" recently and am very impressed with the results, but as the guy above mentioned these products are expensive and you got to jump through a few hoops to get em
 
mburnickas said:
But the larger question is when can people buy Opti-coating? I detail on the side and this might fill some niches....These are not $150 detail jobs either.
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I believe the powers that be said sometime in this quarter, OptiCoat would be available for "personal" use. Would be nice to see if that date holds up, there isnt much time left in this quarter :)
 
JReed said:
I've been testing an alternate "permanent coating" recently and am very impressed with the results, but as the guy above mentioned these products are expensive and you got to jump through a few hoops to get em
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No hoops to jump through for Opti Coat. Just a waiver to sign for those with a detailing business. Feel free to PM me and it can be on it's way to you tomorrow. The problem those with complaints are running into is that they are trying to buy without the credentials we require. The new version will bridge the gap.





Sent from my ViP4 viaTapatalk
 
People, Optimum will be releasing a consumer version of Opti-Coat. Can't say when for sure but it will be soon. So if you want to use Opti-Coat for your personal use nows the chance.



You all know Dr. G, he is always improving his products and working on new ones.
 
Definitely want the consumer version, should be a good upsell for winter. Still not a huge demand around here for something that lasts 3 years for the price I'd have to charge (at least among my current customers) but something that will be fine all winter (last two have been unusually cold and snowy) will be pretty popular.
 
Guys, I have a new car on order and it's due to arrive in a couple of weeks. Would y'all want to do something like this on a brand new car? My primary concern is inability to bond with the car if I only have to wash it over the next 36 months.... :(



Scott, do you find your dad's car sheds dirt just like a recently waxed (sealed) car would? Is that what I would expect for 36 months? What does one do if they have to spot-clean an area?



thx.
 
G37 said:
Will this Opti-Coat 2.0 put OCW and OS on the bench?
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I doubt it, not everyone is interested in paying the extra $$$ for a coating. Plus you can always add pop to the coating with OS and OCW like I've been doing on my own car.



Tom-I do know it was very easy to do an ONR wash on my Dad's car back in January (borrowed it for a few days right after my other Maxima was totaled) and once washed, looked freshly waxed and had excellent slickness beyond what the polymers in ONR are capable of.



Great for a new car, make sure the finish is swirl free, do the alcohol wipe-down, apply the sealant and then you can always wax it if you feel like it, and if you don't, relax and enjoy life knowing the paint is protected.
 
Scottwax said:
Plus you can always add pop to the coating with OS and OCW like I've been doing on my own car.
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I read this at AG about Opti Coat 2.0

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobZ71LM7

Will topping with either Optimum Car Wax or Collinite 845 degrade the product in terms of durability or protection? I ask because I work for a power company and one of our coal plants in particular is terrible about etching the clear coat on employees cars. So I'll take any added protection I can get.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris@Optimum

More than likely the product you apply will suffer in durability because Opti Coat doesn't allow much to stick to it. Also, while the product IS on the surface, your car will take on the repellency and look of the product instead of Opti Coat 2.0. I use a QD after washing, but that's about it.
 
Opti-Coat can be waxed, even have a polymer sealant placed on top of it but most likely because of the properties of the coating itself the benefits derived from a wax or polymer will be short lived, more so then if those same products were used on a surface not protected with Opti-Coat.



If Opti-Coat will not accept another coat of Opti-Coat after it has been cured then that should give you an idea of it not accepting a wax or polymer either.....actually as I think about it a wax may work better than a polymer as a wax just lays on top of the surface you apply it to while a polymer seeks to bond to the surface you apply it to.:think:



Anthony
 
Anthony Orosco said:
Opti-Coat can be waxed, even have a polymer sealant placed on top of it but most likely because of the properties of the coating itself the benefits derived from a wax or polymer will be short lived, more so then if those same products were used on a surface not protected with Opti-Coat.



If Opti-Coat will not accept another coat of Opti-Coat after it has been cured then that should give you an idea of it not accepting a wax or polymer either.....actually as I think about it a wax may work better than a polymer as a wax just lays on top of the surface you apply it to while a polymer seeks to bond to the surface you apply it to.:think:



Anthony
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So has anybody tested this. I had planned to use my normal regime of optiseal with boost of OCW afterwards. Now I'm wondering about either and thinking about adding or replacing using these with some nuba???
 
tom p. said:
Guys, I have a new car on order and it's due to arrive in a couple of weeks. Would y'all want to do something like this on a brand new car? My primary concern is inability to bond with the car if I only have to wash it over the next 36 months.....
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Hey, I resemble that remark!



I just got a new-to-me (and basically new at 9K miles) dog-hauler and I'm just gonna FK1000P it, but I do wonder about opti-coating the under-vehicle parts.
 
I had the chance to meet Dr. G this weekend. A really amazing man when it comes to the knowledge of paint protection. I have never tried the Opticoat yet, but will be soon. Its was funny I actaully seen this test car first hand Friday when Dave picked me up at the airport. It is still fully intack, even the smudge mark on the rear glass was still there. From what Dr G..told me about the new coating is that it is actually the same product. It was designed to cure a little slower. It takes roughly 2-4 hours to fully cure and your set. I think its definatlely something to look into for sure.
 
^^

So with the slower cure times I guess you can remove it from surfaces, within a 1 hour time frame, just by wiping it off...........



I also wonder if the slower cure times will allow it to flow out and maybe increase slickness?



Cheers,

GREG
 
Greg Nichols said:
^^

So with the slower cure times I guess you can remove it from surfaces, within a 1 hour time frame, just by wiping it off...........



I also wonder if the slower cure times will allow it to flow out and maybe increase slickness?



Cheers,

GREG
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If you try and wipe it off you'll have a real mess. You need to decide whether you want it or not before you apply it. Taking it off partially cured is harder than just compounding when cured.
 
So Chris,



Then why increase the curing time to such as 2hrs, I would think that would present problems such as enviro fall out meshing with the uncured surface?



Did a new applicator get developed? I really dislike the present one, a bit funky to use. I imagine the cost will be the same?



Cheers,

GREg
 
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