Got Makita?

O

old_gonzo

New member
If you have used this product, what did you think about it? Curious as it is on sale at an auto detailing site. Thanks in advance. :)
 
I have used it. Not since I got Crystal Mist and Mt towels, though.



It's a bit thicker than CM. I had it streak once or twice while buffing.



It seems very slick and looks good, though.



I have to QD tonight (in the heat!). I'll try both CM and FG side by side and let you know.
 
Thanks for your efforts. What color car will you be applying it to? I wasn't sure if the Field Glaze contained carnauba or not; since you have the bottle handy, are you able to tell? Thanks.
 
Don is right as always. :)



Label says:



Zymol Field Glaze Liquid Carnauba



Back label says:



ZFG is a no-silicone, Carnauba Milk srpay wax designed to eleminate (sic) the bond between dust and foreign material while enhancing the existing wax shine.



Oh, both my cars are British Racing Green



And, I did not QD tonight. Had to wash instead (at 9:00)after driving through a brief rain shower. 92 degrees, high humidity, smog alert -- acid rain heaven.
 
Quick Detailers will not stop the potential of "etching", sorry.



Ozone is a more active "oxidizer" than the oxygen molecule on water. Just like when washing you clothes, add heat and moisture, you start the reactive chain of events.



Wash vehicles that are in a high ozone enviorment and high heat, with a non caustic carwash shampoo, allow it stay or set on the paint suface for 3 to 5 minutes or even longer.



The high solid clearcoat will absorb this solution into the porosity of the clear, this will neutralize any of the acids that may have penetrated into the substrate,(resin system-binder/film former) and render them harmless.



Then, once you have rinsed and dryed the vehicle's paint, go ahead and apply a QD if you wish (most are just alcohol and water).



That alcohol will "pull" some of the water out of the substrate. It is a "drying agent", but will not provide any sacrifical protection to your clear.



Dealerships uses of "di-water", "reverse osmosis" water washes of lot inventory actually contributes more to "etching" of clears than if they let them alone.



The old rule of chemistry is still in effect, " never add water to acids, only acid to water".



Acids(oxides/dioxides) when dry will not do much, if any damage, but add an oxidizer(water-oxygen molecules) and the corossive eating of the clearcoat starts.
 
First of all, Big Thanks to Todd, Angelo and all of you guys for your tips & views.

Recently, I was able to borrow a Makita 9227 rotary. I like it! In fact I liked it a lot that I bought one! A friend hooked me up with a store and I got a decent deal with it.
The weight didn't bother me much, and I don't think it will because I won't be using it everyday. I just like the feel and the smoothness of the machine.

I tried it on the front of the Accord, and it did take out most water spots on the hood & front fenders. I only went as high as 1000 rpm (for a brief moment), and mostly used the 600rpm speed.

One thing I experienced is some occasional pad hopping. I was using the Tangerine Hydrotechs with P203s. What could have caused the hopping?

Are hydrotechs good choice for the rotary? or should I go with the Flats or Hi-Gloss?

Thanks once again for all your inputs. :)
 
jrt81 said:
First of all, Big Thanks to Todd, Angelo and all of you guys for your tips & views.

Recently, I was able to borrow a Makita 9227 rotary. I like it! In fact I liked it a lot that I bought one! A friend hooked me up with a store and I got a decent deal with it.
The weight didn't bother me much, and I don't think it will because I won't be using it everyday. I just like the feel and the smoothness of the machine.

I tried it on the front of the Accord, and it did take out most water spots on the hood & front fenders. I only went as high as 1000 rpm (for a brief moment), and mostly used the 600rpm speed.

One thing I experienced is some occasional pad hopping. I was using the Tangerine Hydrotechs with P203s. What could have caused the hopping?

Are hydrotechs good choice for the rotary? or should I go with the Flats or Hi-Gloss?

Thanks once again for all your inputs. :)
Click to expand...

Hi,

You shouldn't have to be afraid to go higher than 1000rpm. At 600rpm, it barely does anything, in my opinion. With the advanced technology medium grade polishes and high quality foam pads, holograms and swirl marks is quite rare.

Most of the paint strike through, I have read, occur with the heavy grade compounds (think M85) and heavy cutting wool pads at really high speeds. Even with a very cutting foam pad, you have to literally apply a lot of pressure on the same spot for 20 seconds in order to go through the paint. But you wouldn't even do that with a dual action polisher anyway, right. Compounds like #105 are so fine and cut so well that it doesn't induce a lot of scouring and swirls and you shouldn't need apply too much pressure for adequate correction. #105 at the right speed, pressure, and pad acts like a medium grade polish.

I do find the LC orange pads hop like crazy with both DA and rotary. The moderator suggested priming the pad with the product itself to reduce it. I am not sure if the hydrotech pads hop as much, but basically most of the "coarse" feeling pads would hop because they grab to the surface instead of smoothly rotating on it. Meguiar's cutting pad doesn't hop as much if hopping is a real concern for you.

I would suggest high-gloss pads over hydrotech. The fact that the hydrotech only comes in two variants makes it harder to fine tune the right cutting power for the job, in my opinion.
 
Thanks dennn.

My paint is in relatively good condition, i.e. just minor swirl marks. No need for more abrasaive compounds yet. In fact, I think with the rotary, I think I can tackle minor defects with some mild polish. The most abrasive polish I have is the P203s.

You have a point with the pads, I may get some hi gloss pads on the next sale!
 
dennn,

I think the priming issue may have been a factor. I probably didn't prime the Tangerine pad enough.

When I tackle some minor swirls on the sides and trunk, I will bump the speed up.

I will try to post the results of my detail soon.
 
dennn said:
Hi,

You shouldn't have to be afraid to go higher than 1000rpm. At 600rpm, it barely does anything, in my opinion. With the advanced technology medium grade polishes and high quality foam pads, holograms and swirl marks is quite rare.

Most of the paint strike through, I have read, occur with the heavy grade compounds (think M85) and heavy cutting wool pads at really high speeds. Even with a very cutting foam pad, you have to literally apply a lot of pressure on the same spot for 20 seconds in order to go through the paint. But you wouldn't even do that with a dual action polisher anyway, right. Compounds like #105 are so fine and cut so well that it doesn't induce a lot of scouring and swirls and you shouldn't need apply too much pressure for adequate correction. #105 at the right speed, pressure, and pad acts like a medium grade polish.

I do find the LC orange pads hop like crazy with both DA and rotary. The moderator suggested priming the pad with the product itself to reduce it. I am not sure if the hydrotech pads hop as much, but basically most of the "coarse" feeling pads would hop because they grab to the surface instead of smoothly rotating on it. Meguiar's cutting pad doesn't hop as much if hopping is a real concern for you.

I would suggest high-gloss pads over hydrotech. The fact that the hydrotech only comes in two variants makes it harder to fine tune the right cutting power for the job, in my opinion.
Click to expand...
Hopping is caused by not enough product (lube) not keeping the pad flat to the surface and even too low speeds. Get it up to 1500rpm, keep the pad moving and flat to the surface. Stay away from edges and ridges and you'll be fine. Like dennn said, it's not easy to burn thru your clear, just use a little common sense and you'll be fine. Just got the hydro so can't comment on them yet.
 
Congrats on choosing a great machine.

Pad hop is often caused by not keeping the pad flat on the surface. This often occurs when your arms away from your body, at the end of the length of your pass. It is similar to painting a car, if you just sweep your back and forth with a paint gun you will find that at the end of your sweeps the gun will be further away from the surface and not angled towards it. Instead when you paint you have to 'break your wrist' to keep the gun the same distance and at the same angle to the paint. Think 'Karate Kid' when Daniel has to paint the fence.

When you use a stiffer foam you will tend to lift the outside edge of the pad and you move away from your body. This creates a pressure spot where the pad has maximum contact and slows the foam. In essence the rest of the foam (that isn't touching anything solidly) will try to pass the foam that has friction, creating a spring action. This is what will usually give buffer hop.

As mentioned add a little pressure to engage to the foam on the surface evenly and focus on the keeping the pad in even contact with the paint. It does take practice but you will developed a feel for it overtime. Once you learn it you will wonder how you ever got hop to begin with!
 
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