Glazee....

S

solekeeper

New member
Guys in the process of westanding my whole car (Straight Black) with 2500. By block.

I did some buffing today with a foam pad (I forgot the name but it is a white one by 3m) With 3m perfect it compound to remove the scratches.

They are coming out with ease( Minor swirling however)



I wanted to know what would be a good glaze and pad I should follow up with? (As of right now, I did the 2 quarters) And the scratches are gone, however there is a very light haze hovering over the panels.. I need something to bring back the shine)





I already have some good wax set up.. so I'm good in that area. Thanks for any info you can provide!

Any products by 3m preferably! thanks@!
 
Keeping with 3M, how about UF to polish out the remaining haze? Depending on paint hardness, you may need a step in between your compound and finishing product.
 
On black, you'll most likely need to use a 3 step system for complete correction of the sanded finish. I'd stay away from glazes BTW. Try testing you 1st step by doing a straight alcohol wipe down after you buff. That will tell you how effective your foam pad 1st step is.
 
Definitely go with 3M Ultrafine Machine Polish #06068 (Ultrafina). Not only does it finish out hologram free when used properly to remove LIGHT holograms, it leaves a deep, rich carnauba like finish.
 
[QUOTE it leaves a deep, rich carnauba like finish. ][/QUOTE]



This is very true, the finish is truly amazing with UF. I mostly use it on soft clears to burnish and it always leaves that warm, deep gloss of a carnauba, and it's very easy to use and works awile without the flashover. On the bottle it says to make 5 passes or so with the first pass with some pressure and then lighten the pressure. This works well but I like to run at 1500 rpms then turn down the RPM's to 800 to 1000 to finish down. I guess it will depend on the hardness of the paint in whether you need a step in between the compound and UF, but I think 3M has a scale of which step would come before UF. I don't use 3M polishes, except for the UF. I always use Meguiar's 105 and 205 or Menzerna, then go to UF to finish down when I can't do it with the aformentioned products. Not using 3M has nothing to do with disliking their compound or medium polishes, I've just found a method that works for me with other products.
 
+1 for Ultrafina



Scottwax said:
Definitely go with 3M Ultrafine Machine Polish #06068 (Ultrafina). Not only does it finish out hologram free when used properly to remove LIGHT holograms, it leaves a deep, rich carnauba like finish.
Click to expand...
 
David Fermani said:
On black, you'll most likely need to use a 3 step system for complete correction of the sanded finish. I'd stay away from glazes BTW..
Click to expand...



Yeah, 3M makes a lot of different "Perfect It Rubbing Coumpounds" but IME none of them finish out ready-to-wax (or ready-to-glaze).



If using the Perfect-It II Fine Cut Rubbing Compound, be sure to wear the proper mask as the silica-based abrasives can (literally) kill you, just like asbestos.
 
Thanks for all the responses, it seems most of you agree to go with the 3m ultrafina for finishing.

Any advice on which pad to use?

I will order this tomorrow. Also pics will be taken to show progess.

Thanks all!

And my clear is soft btw, it's an Infiniti... Their clear is horrible.









AND ALSO!

Can someone recomend me a good applicator for applying my dodo juice wax?

Can an applicator at wal-mart be good enough?



Another edit!!

Is this the right compound?

06068 3M™ Perfect-It™ 3000 Ultrafina™ SE, Swirl Eliminator, 1 Quart (US) (NEW NAME:3M™ Perfect-It™ Ultrafine Machine Polish, 06068, 1 qt/946ml)
 
David Fermani said:
I don't feel you need the 3M pad. A regular finishing pad works just as good.
Click to expand...



I'd at least go with a finishing waffle pad, they seem to do a good job getting into those creases car companies like to put in the hoods and down the side of the car.
 
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