glaze or polish with lots of fillers

RaskyR1 said:
AutoMagic BC-2!





Sorry, I couldn't resist! :)
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hahaha, nice one chad!



I cant believe I asked about that 5 years ago!!!!! Look at me now, I dont ever look to fillers for anything anymore. How times have changed! Its either true correction, or what you see if what you get! I'd rather have more durable sealant rather than cover up 10% defects and compromise sealant bonding!
 
toyotaguy said:
I cant believe I asked about that 5 years ago!!!!!
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When I first saw the thread I couldn't believe it either.... I was thinking "Uhh, Eric? Why the hell..." and then I noticed the post date. No worries, we were all n00bs once. :nana:
 
This thread is worth updating anyhow.



Wonder if anybody's had good results filler-wise with Griot's Paint Glaze :think: I know somebody who uses it, but his cars aren't really, uhm...well, they might need more than that product offers.



Bence- I dunno if the 1Z WPS is available in the US anymore. It really is nice stuff for what it is, does a nice quick-fix on all sorts of issues. I've even had it do OK with the "sticky paint that won't shed oils" dilemma. When you simply have to say "oh [screw] it, good enough, I gotta get this finished!" it's a great solution.
 
Fillers will always have their place

For me - taking the paint to a level higher than what can be achieved with abrasives alone



Glare and Restructure Marine are still the best filling products I've seen and use to this day since the filling doesnt wash out for quite a long time and if it does, just fill it back in with some more product

Using any coating or sealant you want is not a problem as the filling is not oil based



Glare Micro, Prima Amigo then Glare Infinity and Permanon aircraft supershine work superbly as a final process after paint correction with water based single polish system (ie compound like cut with final polish like finish without the marring, dust or the other issues that compounds have



If you own your garage queen or any car for that matter for long enough,its alot cheaper and wiser to stop cutting it back at some point and build up the paint with the above products. its what I've been doing for about four years. my paint gets better with age, not worse
 
I always find your points interesting Matt and I envy you as quite a lot of products you are using, is Aussie-specific.



In the recent times, with factory paint thicknesses at the 50 micron mark, I find myself to like filling. Not short-term filling, you can get from an oily glaze, but what you wrote, a reliable, long-term filling. As I haven't tried the Glare products, for me the Bilt Hamber stuff was the most effective. If someone could make a permanent filler... Dr. G or the guys @BH, can you hear me?



How do the Glare products work in terms of application methodology? For me it doesn't have to be explainable physically, because 1.) only the results count, and 2.) until physics can not explain even the most basic >COP1 phenomenons, I'm not interested in the official versions.
 
Bence said:
I always find your points interesting Matt and I envy you as quite a lot of products you are using, is Aussie-specific.



In the recent times, with factory paint thicknesses at the 50 micron mark, I find myself to like filling. Not short-term filling, you can get from an oily glaze, but what you wrote, a reliable, long-term filling. As I haven't tried the Glare products, for me the Bilt Hamber stuff was the most effective. If someone could make a permanent filler... Dr. G or the guys @BH, can you hear me?



How do the Glare products work in terms of application methodology? For me it doesn't have to be explainable physically, because 1.) only the results count, and 2.) until physics can not explain even the most basic >COP1 phenomenons, I'm not interested in the official versions.
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Thanks buddy, I appreciate that.

Look the glare and restructure marine products are not perfect but for what they are, do provide something extra that abrasives can't do

I've talked with david G about a permanent filling product, a gel type mainly



its pretty simple with glare, use european open or closed cell foams for machine application|

decontaminate the paint, apply zero if you wish by hand then with a DA at high speed and then slow the speed back down to 1 or 2. apply to whole car

with micro, hand first to work it into the substrate like putting on amigo or any typical polish - circular and straight line movements, apply by rotary with a light cut pad at 1000 rpm then 750, then apply some more by hand and apply by DA or RO at speed 1 to 3, best to let a film of it sit on the car for as long as possible up to 24 hours

then go with Glare infinity in the same manner and Advanced on top of that by hand only



I love using permanon supershine aircraft version over three coats of infinity. really nice

as I said, the gear aint perfect but hey, what is
 
I've been using Autoglym SRP because of this thread and been very happy with the results. I use it on my 1986 XR4Ti because the single stage black paint is original. It's been compounded within a micron of it's life prior to my ownership and in a number of places the primer is showing through (good thing Sharpies are a perfect match).



mustangworld_fabulous_fords_2011_1094_JPG.jpg




mustangworld_fabulous_fords_2011_1096_JPG.jpg
 
SRP and EZ Creme are the two products I've used wich i found filling the most



SRP & Collinite 845



or EZ Creme and Jetseal, are my choices when not correcting swirls
 
Noob question to revive the thread. A "glaze" is always a product with fillers, or at least the common term?

Are there any decent OTC filler products available in the US?



Thanks
 
dfoxengr said:
Noob question to revive the thread. A "glaze" is always a product with fillers, or at least the common term?

Are there any decent OTC filler products available in the US?



Thanks
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The Meguiar's "Pure Polishes" qualify- M03/M05/M07. Not sure if they still make M81 or Deep Crystal Step #2 Polish or not.



M09 Swirlmark Remover does contain some *VERY* mild abrasives, but it basically behaves like a glaze, and it can fill pretty well.



Autobody/paint supply places sell 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, which is another good choice.



More and more places are selling Griot's stuff, and they sell both a Paint Glaze and a Hand Polish (which acts like a glaze same as the M09).
 
Ok, I actually have a bottle of Step #2 Deep Crystal Polish.

Can it be applies by PC on speed 1/no cut pad even though it claims hand apply only?



There are no abrasives in a glaze right?





------------------------

A confusing point about the deep crystal 3 step system. The 1st step (Deep Crystal® System Paint Cleaner) description is



"Regular washing cannot remove all of the contaminants that can dull your paint finish. Meguiar’s® non-abrasive Deep Crystal® Paint Cleaner safely removes road grime, surface contamination, light oxidation, swirls, and light scratches to restore damaged and dull finishes. Prepares all paint finishes (including clear coat) for polishing and waxing."



How can it remove swirls without being abrasive?
 
ok, makes sense..."remove"



So step 1 does some cleaning and some filling of swirls, step2 does more filling and 3 is the wax, sound right?



I'd guess then they can be machine applied on low settings and no cut pads.



Thank you.
 
dfoxengr- Unless your paint is *really* soft, the extremely mild abrasives in the DC#1 Cleaner won't do anything except make the product easy to use. The DC#2 is functionally non-abrasive.



Oh, just get me going on how Meguiar's uses words like "remove" and "eliminate" :rolleyes:



Yeah, you have the idea behind them :xyxthumbs



Generally speaking, anything that can be done by hand can be done by PC, and I myself like slightly open/porous pads rather than "tight" ones like the typical "finishing" pads. Just use ones that don't have any cut of their own.



Don't let the DC#2 Polish dry completely before you buff it off, and don't overwork it with the PC if you do it by machine.



BTW, the DC#3 Wax is pretty crappy IMO.
 
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