Hello everyone. So I have a white Mazda Protege5 that has "cloudy paint", theres very little reflection and gloss. I am going to be investing in a Makita 9227c and some polishes. I have Turtle Wax Plantium Gloss something another wax. I've used rotarys before, my dad old milwaukee one that weighs like 15lbs, that thing was a beast but worked well. A store near me has a great selection Of Megs Mirror glaze products. I was thinking of doing a three step process then wax. Any recommonations on what to buy and what speeds and pads work well. I was also of thinking of getting all three megs pads. I'm no pro by anymeans and don't need perfection just better then what it is. also where's a good place to get a makita? Thanks
Getting supplies and Rotary
- Thread starter ride92
- Start date
Dan
Well-known member
ride92 said:
A lot of people seem to like the #105/#205 combo. You will need lots of pads, purple, yellow and tan. I'm not sure what your goal is though. If its just to fix your own car, getting a rotary just for that might be overkill.
i also plan on doing my wifes car. and I'm the kinda guy that buys a tool once and buys it for life. I'm 27years old and this will not be my last car or the last time I detail it. Porter cables cost about the same and I've been reading that you get better results in less time with a rotary so.... And how many pads will I need for one car? Should one pad be able to do one step for the whole car?
MarioMaserati
New member
I love rotaries, used them all my life
A PC is good but might not do the job.
But since you an armature it should work fine.
Don't get Meguiars PC they have problems, get a Porter Cable or a Flex.
A PC is good but might not do the job.
But since you an armature it should work fine.
Don't get Meguiars PC they have problems, get a Porter Cable or a Flex.
I've already decided I'm getting a rotary. I've used them before and would say I'm above amature level with them. I've painted several cars before and have always used a rotary to finish the paint jobs off. Makita 9227 will be in my garage. What else will I Need, do I really need ALOT of pads like the one dude said, i've alwayed used just one pad before per step. I can't remember what product I used last, they where my uncles, but what megs mirror glaze products whould you use?
Dan
Well-known member
ride92 said:
It sure will do stuff in less time. The first time you burn through paint you will be kicking yourself. I don't know of a single person who hasn't burned paint with a rotary. A PC will do anything you need, it will go right down to bare metal if you want, so don't think it isn't powerful enough. It will remove sanding marks and any swirls you throw at it.
As for pads, you need a minimum several of each, they get loaded up and have to be cleaned and dried.
Maknmony
New member
craigdt said:
I don't know about that, the PC doesn't have alot of ability. The PC is great for after a real rotary, go out and purchase the Megs 105/205 and a real rotary. If you leave alot of buffer trails, the PC will clean them up quick. As for pads I've been using the Lake Country foam and the Purple foamed wool, they all work great.
yakky said:
I've used rotarys before and have yet to burn thru the paint or even come close. Use the weight of the machine keep it moving and no problems. Just because your too scared to man up and use one don't bash my choice to use one when I know what I'm doing with it. I want speed and results, the key there is speed, If I had a **** load of time I would get a PC or a flex DA and go to town removing more clear then nessesary. I've never used more then one pad per step on any car, just clean it has you go, prime it before you start, simple.
All I want to know is what products from Megs Mirror Glaze line and what speeds would you use those products at with a Makita 9227 (Not a PC, not a Flex, Not a dewalt, or anyother machine out there)
scary bill
New member
I suggest 3-6 pads in each type. I can use 3-4 pads to do a full size truck or SUV during correction work. I change pads more often because as they loads up they act differently. The pads will loose cut, might even start to hop or pull you around. You *could* get dirt in a pad too. Its nice to have the option to just change a pad vs having to stop and clean it.
I would get some LC white pads for the majority of polish work. They cut pretty well for light marring and leave a very good finish. LC blue pads for finishing and jeweling, that can improve most of the finishes left by a typical white pad.
Then look into some wool pads for compounding. The wool will stay cooler during fast cutting than the foam, that can greatly reduce you chances of burning.
I like to use 6.5' pads, I use a 4 3/4' LC BP. I have no problems with that. *I* find smaller pads (vs. 7.5'+) to be easier to control.
Megs stuff will be fine. Do some research on the 105/205 combo. Menzerna and Optimum are also good polishes.
3m makes a polish called Ultra Fine (or Ultra Fina) that can be very easy to use. I use at the end of every polishing to ensure a glossy finish and no holograms (buffer trails). The rest of the 3m line will also do great work.
In other words, it will be more technique than product to archive good results.
Speeds: I spread polishes at 600rpm, work most at 1200 max. As most polishes clear out it is a good idea to reduce the speed and pressure to around 600-900 rpm for a last slow pass. That will help reduce any trails you created. It is usually not necessary to go much pas 1000 rpm. As I polish I check the temp of the panel with the back of my hand to ensure its not hot. More speed = more heat.
I think you will be fine. As you stated; keep the buffer moving, don't get too aggressive on edges, tape trim stuff. Watch painted plastics really close, they hold the heat on the surface, as opposed to "sinking" the heat away. The paint will come off before the plastic will melt.
Piece of cake.
I would get some LC white pads for the majority of polish work. They cut pretty well for light marring and leave a very good finish. LC blue pads for finishing and jeweling, that can improve most of the finishes left by a typical white pad.
Then look into some wool pads for compounding. The wool will stay cooler during fast cutting than the foam, that can greatly reduce you chances of burning.
I like to use 6.5' pads, I use a 4 3/4' LC BP. I have no problems with that. *I* find smaller pads (vs. 7.5'+) to be easier to control.
Megs stuff will be fine. Do some research on the 105/205 combo. Menzerna and Optimum are also good polishes.
3m makes a polish called Ultra Fine (or Ultra Fina) that can be very easy to use. I use at the end of every polishing to ensure a glossy finish and no holograms (buffer trails). The rest of the 3m line will also do great work.
In other words, it will be more technique than product to archive good results.
Speeds: I spread polishes at 600rpm, work most at 1200 max. As most polishes clear out it is a good idea to reduce the speed and pressure to around 600-900 rpm for a last slow pass. That will help reduce any trails you created. It is usually not necessary to go much pas 1000 rpm. As I polish I check the temp of the panel with the back of my hand to ensure its not hot. More speed = more heat.
I think you will be fine. As you stated; keep the buffer moving, don't get too aggressive on edges, tape trim stuff. Watch painted plastics really close, they hold the heat on the surface, as opposed to "sinking" the heat away. The paint will come off before the plastic will melt.
Piece of cake.
Dan
Well-known member
ride92 said:
You know what you are doing and are asking about how many pads you will need? Give me a break. I'd call you some choice words but its against forum policy. I have a rotary, its actually my second. I've been using one since before PC's existed. Both have their place, but since you know everything, stop asking questions.
yakky said:
Yakky, get bent you a-hole. I have used rotary polishers before with wool pads and cleaned the pads with a tooth brush while they are spinning. The two rotary tools I've used were my dads and my uncles, about 8 years ago. I'm new to the foam pads but they sound like a better option as they have less cut then the wool pads. How to use a rotary - got it, which foam pads to use - I'm new to them hence the questions you *****.
Dan
Well-known member
ride92 said:
Did I ruffle your feathers??? Good luck with the rotary burn on your jalopy. You'll think of me when it happens...
yakky said:
O yeah, I'm super jealous of you 0-60 in 20sec pirius. You are such a high roller big baller. I don't thnk my Mazda will ever compete in the same class as your super cool guy Pirius. What am I to do....maybe crush you with my Audi!!!! But then again, maybe I should just trade both my cars in and get one as cool as you, then I would be part of your super deluxe extra special hybrid club!!!! yipeee.
Dan
Well-known member
ride92 said:
Man, you are really digging deep, making fun of a car I used to own.
Sorry you are so mad you can't even spell anymore. Did I hurt your feelings so bad you had to bring up another car you owned?:aww:LeadingEdgeDetail
New member
Ride92, you're ruining your own thread talking trash with this guy. Tell him what you think then pretend he doesn't exist. It is the only way internet forums deal with troll-type people.
Yakky, if you have nothing POSITIVE to say do not say anything at all. You made your point the first post, leave it alone. He wants Rotary advice. If you cannot provide, stop posting in his thread.
Yakky, if you have nothing POSITIVE to say do not say anything at all. You made your point the first post, leave it alone. He wants Rotary advice. If you cannot provide, stop posting in his thread.
LeadingEdgeDetail
New member
With that out of the way, your shopping list should look like so:
4 6.5" Cutting pads (Orange)
2 or 3 6.5" Polishing pads (White)
1 or 2 6.5" Finishing pads (grey/red)
That way you're covered for a whole car, anyway....
Ohh, one other thing, if you claybar the car before polishing it takes a lot of the gunk that builds in your pad away, letting your pads work properly for much longer.
Making sure the paint is REALLY clean before polishing is important... Claybar is the best way I know of to do that.
4 6.5" Cutting pads (Orange)
2 or 3 6.5" Polishing pads (White)
1 or 2 6.5" Finishing pads (grey/red)
That way you're covered for a whole car, anyway....
Ohh, one other thing, if you claybar the car before polishing it takes a lot of the gunk that builds in your pad away, letting your pads work properly for much longer.
Making sure the paint is REALLY clean before polishing is important... Claybar is the best way I know of to do that.
Stumpy thanks for the tips and shopping list of pads. Like i said I'm new to the foam pads and guess I'm just shocked at how many you need. All those for just one car. I was planning on Claying the car again (did it when I first bought it in spring) so will the pads get that dirty? I thought I read on here that you just use a nylon brush to clean the pads and use like a quick detailer spray to prime the pads? Is the number of pads just for speed? When one gets dirty, switch, rather then clean? At $10-$20 bucks a pop for pads that adds up quick.