Getting inner rims real clean
- Thread starter nappyjim
- Start date
l33
New member
try a claybar and/or polish. Then make sure to seal them with a sealant to help prevent from gettng those marks again
Accumulator
Well-known member
From mild to aggressive, I've used:
Clay, using wheel cleaner or EFHI as lube.
AIO, sometimes with an old cutting pad.
Scotchbrite pads- the *softest* ones made for nonstick cookware. These are quite similar to the more aggressive wheel-scrubbers sold at detailing places.
After I get as much of the stuff off as I can with the above methods, I'll use a mild RC then a polish (usually PI-III RC and MG) before doing the AIO + SG x many routine.
Hope it goes well, but be prepared to spend a lot of time on this. I put in *hours* on some the first time I cleaned them. Even the ones I keep nice year-round take a few hours every now and then to really keep on top of things.
Clay, using wheel cleaner or EFHI as lube.
AIO, sometimes with an old cutting pad.
Scotchbrite pads- the *softest* ones made for nonstick cookware. These are quite similar to the more aggressive wheel-scrubbers sold at detailing places.
After I get as much of the stuff off as I can with the above methods, I'll use a mild RC then a polish (usually PI-III RC and MG) before doing the AIO + SG x many routine.
Hope it goes well, but be prepared to spend a lot of time on this. I put in *hours* on some the first time I cleaned them. Even the ones I keep nice year-round take a few hours every now and then to really keep on top of things.
jimmybuffit
That'll buff right out!
Did the wheels of an 01 Miata SE today... Chromed exterior and 4 years of buildup inside! A mild solvent (New Car Prep from ValuGard) took away the tar deposits that a serious acid (with agitation) wouldn't touch.
Finished with Klasse SG.
Also, this BRG SE got bright yellow calipers today. Pretty cool!
Jim
Finished with Klasse SG.
Also, this BRG SE got bright yellow calipers today. Pretty cool!
Jim
Accumulator
Well-known member
Jimmy Buffit said:
:doh Doh! Yeah, I forgot to mention using something like that
Best way to get rid of the baked in tar :xyxthumbsI'll also be looking to remove the brake dust build-up from the inside of my rims in the new future. I read from David's Autopia e-book that claying isn't recommended unless the wheel has a clearcoat or "powder coat" finish. I'm not sure what a powder-coat finish is, but I'm fairly sure that the inside of my rims aren't clearcoated. I say this because the outside of my rims easily come clean with just a wash mitt and car wash soap while the inside area of the rims that I can reach don't come clean.
Once I get the wheel off and clean the inside of the rims, I will use AIO and UPP to seal. That will make future cleaning easier, but getting the accumulated brake dust off the first time is an issue. Is clay out of the question? Am I better off going with an acid-free wheel cleaner like the 4* Wheel Ceaner Gel along with some brushing?
Once I get the wheel off and clean the inside of the rims, I will use AIO and UPP to seal. That will make future cleaning easier, but getting the accumulated brake dust off the first time is an issue. Is clay out of the question? Am I better off going with an acid-free wheel cleaner like the 4* Wheel Ceaner Gel along with some brushing?
White95Max
New member
My new wheels (used, but new to me) looked like that when I got them. I used P21S liquid wheel cleaner on them and the crap just came right off. Which wheel cleaner were you using?
Almost all of the dust and grime came right off when I used the P21S. A little bit was left and removed by AIO.
Almost all of the dust and grime came right off when I used the P21S. A little bit was left and removed by AIO.
Anthony O.
New member
nappyjim said:I've let this crap build up on the inside of my rims. Im gonna take the entire wheel off and clean it real well. Just wondering if you guys have any tips of what do use to get this stuff off? Ive tried your typical rim cleaner, but that didnt work to well. Any suggestions?
This may help
http://autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=51749
Anthony
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Most modem automotive wheels have a painted aluminium base with two or three clear coats applied (on the â€Ëœfrontâ€â„¢ of the wheel but not the back, these are usually just a primer paint surface) and are subjected to similar type contaminants as the paint film surface, including acid rain, airborne pollutants, alkaline water as well as road tar debris.
Clean, properly conditioned wheels, tyres and fender wells greatly enhance the overall appearance of your vehicle. Today's wheels come in a variety of materials and finishes. Clean one wheel at a time, wash wheels and wheel-wells before the rest of the vehicle to avoid dirt and etc. coming into contact to newly washed surfaces.
Once the brake dust has been removed with a 100% acid-free wheel cleaner, apply a citrus based cleaner to the surface, agitate with a boars hair wheel brush and rinse off, dry thoroughly and then apply a polymer sealant for protection, this will also make future cleaning easier. A polymer is recommended (ZoopSeal) as it has a higher melting temperature (350oF) compared to Carnauba wax (180oF) a wheel surface will reach a temperature in excess of 120oF due to rotor friction and in excess of 195oF when parked in the sun.
Periodically remove the wheels (one at a time) to enable the back of the wheel, callipers and give better access to the wheel wells. Should the wheel surface have small scratches they can he removed with a mildly abrasive polish.
Tar should be removed with a solvent type cleaner (and #0000 synthetic steel wool if necessary) and any bonded contaminants or over spray removed with Detailer's Clay, then clean surface with a chemical / polish (Klasse AIO) wash and dry wheel surface thoroughly. Note- Clay is not recommended on wheels that do not have a factory clear coat or powder coat finish. Seal finish with a polymer (ZoopSeal) sealant
JonM
See also Cleaning Clear Coated Wheels
Clean, properly conditioned wheels, tyres and fender wells greatly enhance the overall appearance of your vehicle. Today's wheels come in a variety of materials and finishes. Clean one wheel at a time, wash wheels and wheel-wells before the rest of the vehicle to avoid dirt and etc. coming into contact to newly washed surfaces.
Once the brake dust has been removed with a 100% acid-free wheel cleaner, apply a citrus based cleaner to the surface, agitate with a boars hair wheel brush and rinse off, dry thoroughly and then apply a polymer sealant for protection, this will also make future cleaning easier. A polymer is recommended (ZoopSeal) as it has a higher melting temperature (350oF) compared to Carnauba wax (180oF) a wheel surface will reach a temperature in excess of 120oF due to rotor friction and in excess of 195oF when parked in the sun.
Periodically remove the wheels (one at a time) to enable the back of the wheel, callipers and give better access to the wheel wells. Should the wheel surface have small scratches they can he removed with a mildly abrasive polish.
Tar should be removed with a solvent type cleaner (and #0000 synthetic steel wool if necessary) and any bonded contaminants or over spray removed with Detailer's Clay, then clean surface with a chemical / polish (Klasse AIO) wash and dry wheel surface thoroughly. Note- Clay is not recommended on wheels that do not have a factory clear coat or powder coat finish. Seal finish with a polymer (ZoopSeal) sealant
JonM
See also Cleaning Clear Coated Wheels
Accumulator
Well-known member
toml said:
There are always situational factors that can make generalized advice safe/not in specific instances. I can only speak as to what's worked for *me* and I wouldn't want somebody to take my advice and cause a problem.
I, for instance, tend to avoid acidic wheel cleaners for the most part, simply because I'm concerned (paranoid?) about damage. I did, however, use the older, more acidic A-2-Z on the back sides of some really nasty wheels. A calculated risk that turned out OK.
I've clayed all sorts of wheels including areas that were exposed bare aluminum. Never had a problem. The oxidation from the bare aluminum *does* contaminate the clay rather quickly though.
Many wheels are finished nicely on the front side, and not-so-nicely on the back. SS paint isn't uncommon and it's often poorly applied and easy to cut through. I just take it a little easy on the bare aluminum spots but otherwise treat the backs just like the fronts.
That link Anthony provided reminded me that I oughta get out the steamer for some of these jobs...
Edit- It just occurred to me that we're splitting hairs about being so careful with the back sides, while many mechanics do unthinkable things (as in, coarse sandpaper) to the backs when fitting wheelweights
You should see the "official procedure" in some factory service manuals 