Getting a PC soon but need a polish for a black car

zimmerDN said:
So Optimum seems to be a great product after all. :up But how abrasive would you say it is? #80 is 4/10 and #83 is 6/10. I don't want to jump from #80 to something that's too abrasive.



Also, I know you are suppose to do things progressively and step up the agressiveness of the polish slowly but what about stepping it down before the sealant? How would you do that? :confused:



With a cutting pad, I'd say Optimum is pretty equal to DACP and a touch more aggressive than #80 with a polishing pad. No need to worry about stepping down because Optimum leaves the paint LSP ready after using a polishing pad.



This is after using Optimum with a polishing pad on black:



S500_swirls_after.jpg
 
zimmerDN said:
So Optimum seems to be a great product after all. :up But how abrasive would you say it is? #80 is 4/10 and #83 is 6/10. I don't want to jump from #80 to something that's too abrasive.



Also, I know you are suppose to do things progressively and step up the agressiveness of the polish slowly but what about stepping it down before the sealant? How would you do that? :confused:



With a cutting pad, I'd say Optimum is pretty equal to DACP and a touch more aggressive than #80 with a polishing pad. No need to worry about stepping down because Optimum leaves the paint LSP ready after using a polishing pad.



This is after using Optimum with a polishing pad on black:



S500_swirls_after.jpg
 
okay, this is coming from a guy who got his PC a month ago.. and read hundreds of threads of archives.



Im going to keep it simple and This is what i recommend:



-3M PII Fine Cut for the really messed up part of the car (heavy water spots, etc) - just don't breath the carniogenic dust! Great product, can easily remove most nasty things without wasting much time.



-Mothers Power Polish - Okay, i've tried Sonus SFX1, 2, and 3, Meguiars #9, Meguiars DC steps 1 and 2: this is the best one i have used. Unlike most polishes, you don't have to remove it before it dries. You can wait till it dries and then remove (so u don't have to put down your PC after each panel, saves time). MPP is aggressive on a cutting pad and easy on a polishing pad. It's EASY to remove. It's available over the counter. Leaves a beautiful finish. Since it's a cleaner/polish and it alters it's aggressive according to the pad, this is an extremely versatile product.



-Klasse All-in-one: an excellent cleaner/polish/sealant. It will lay down a nice clean layer that your LSP can bond to. Also leaves behind a pretty good acrylic protection. Easy to use. Goes on and off easy.



-NXT or Mothers Reflections. I personally use NXT right now, but i'm looking to buy reflections. Everybody that i know that have used both prefers Reflections more, supposedly more durablity and even easier to come off. Reflections is supposed to have a deeper carnauba look (better for black cars) vs NXT's rich shiny look. #26 would do good here too.



Well.. there you have it. Most of this stuff you can get at local store like PepBoys except for the Klasse, which you might have to buy online or at a Mercedes-Benz dealer.
 
okay, this is coming from a guy who got his PC a month ago.. and read hundreds of threads of archives.



Im going to keep it simple and This is what i recommend:



-3M PII Fine Cut for the really messed up part of the car (heavy water spots, etc) - just don't breath the carniogenic dust! Great product, can easily remove most nasty things without wasting much time.



-Mothers Power Polish - Okay, i've tried Sonus SFX1, 2, and 3, Meguiars #9, Meguiars DC steps 1 and 2: this is the best one i have used. Unlike most polishes, you don't have to remove it before it dries. You can wait till it dries and then remove (so u don't have to put down your PC after each panel, saves time). MPP is aggressive on a cutting pad and easy on a polishing pad. It's EASY to remove. It's available over the counter. Leaves a beautiful finish. Since it's a cleaner/polish and it alters it's aggressive according to the pad, this is an extremely versatile product.



-Klasse All-in-one: an excellent cleaner/polish/sealant. It will lay down a nice clean layer that your LSP can bond to. Also leaves behind a pretty good acrylic protection. Easy to use. Goes on and off easy.



-NXT or Mothers Reflections. I personally use NXT right now, but i'm looking to buy reflections. Everybody that i know that have used both prefers Reflections more, supposedly more durablity and even easier to come off. Reflections is supposed to have a deeper carnauba look (better for black cars) vs NXT's rich shiny look. #26 would do good here too.



Well.. there you have it. Most of this stuff you can get at local store like PepBoys except for the Klasse, which you might have to buy online or at a Mercedes-Benz dealer.
 
Holy crap that how it looks after Optimum, it's stunning. :scared: :woot:

I am getting a smalll sample bottle of the stuff to try (2oz). Is that enough to do a car for a newbie like myself? :D Then it will be Wolfgang Prewax Cleaner followed by WF Sealant and finally a layer of S100. This is for the black car, and maybe I'll do the same for my blue car when I have the time to. :dance





Scottwax said:
With a cutting pad, I'd say Optimum is pretty equal to DACP and a touch more aggressive than #80 with a polishing pad. No need to worry about stepping down because Optimum leaves the paint LSP ready after using a polishing pad.



This is after using Optimum with a polishing pad on black:



S500_swirls_after.jpg
 
Holy crap that how it looks after Optimum, it's stunning. :scared: :woot:

I am getting a smalll sample bottle of the stuff to try (2oz). Is that enough to do a car for a newbie like myself? :D Then it will be Wolfgang Prewax Cleaner followed by WF Sealant and finally a layer of S100. This is for the black car, and maybe I'll do the same for my blue car when I have the time to. :dance





Scottwax said:
With a cutting pad, I'd say Optimum is pretty equal to DACP and a touch more aggressive than #80 with a polishing pad. No need to worry about stepping down because Optimum leaves the paint LSP ready after using a polishing pad.



This is after using Optimum with a polishing pad on black:



S500_swirls_after.jpg
 
zimmerDN said:
..I need a sealant that has no cleanser so i won't take off #81 and I can layer it each month... Everything will be follwed by S100. Is there a point to apply sealant and S100 then apply sealant again with S100 a month later (sealing the S100 with it).



Once you apply the S100 you can't add more sealant (won't bond to the wax, no way to remove *just* the wax). So I'd choose between a) adding more sealant (something like UPP perhaps, I just keep refreshing it on the S8) and not topping or b) building up as much sealant as you like, topping it, and then just refreshing the wax.
 
zimmerDN said:
..I need a sealant that has no cleanser so i won't take off #81 and I can layer it each month... Everything will be follwed by S100. Is there a point to apply sealant and S100 then apply sealant again with S100 a month later (sealing the S100 with it).



Once you apply the S100 you can't add more sealant (won't bond to the wax, no way to remove *just* the wax). So I'd choose between a) adding more sealant (something like UPP perhaps, I just keep refreshing it on the S8) and not topping or b) building up as much sealant as you like, topping it, and then just refreshing the wax.
 
Accumulator said:
Once you apply the S100 you can't add more sealant (won't bond to the wax, no way to remove *just* the wax). So I'd choose between a) adding more sealant (something like UPP perhaps, I just keep refreshing it on the S8) and not topping or b) building up as much sealant as you like, topping it, and then just refreshing the wax.





I am glad that someone finally said it.... kept wondering if I was confused.....

Rules of Thumb:

1)Wax on top of sealant.

2)Wax will melt/evaporate away, low durability.

3) Putting sealant over wax is a waste of good sealant.



Personal rule of thumb:

Seal the daily driver, better durability for the harsh enviroment of the road and toss the wax.....



Show Cars... well, don't show cars so I dont have a rule for that....
 
Accumulator said:
Once you apply the S100 you can't add more sealant (won't bond to the wax, no way to remove *just* the wax). So I'd choose between a) adding more sealant (something like UPP perhaps, I just keep refreshing it on the S8) and not topping or b) building up as much sealant as you like, topping it, and then just refreshing the wax.





I am glad that someone finally said it.... kept wondering if I was confused.....

Rules of Thumb:

1)Wax on top of sealant.

2)Wax will melt/evaporate away, low durability.

3) Putting sealant over wax is a waste of good sealant.



Personal rule of thumb:

Seal the daily driver, better durability for the harsh enviroment of the road and toss the wax.....



Show Cars... well, don't show cars so I dont have a rule for that....
 
JBM said:
Scott, did you polish that with a rotary?



It is simply freakin fantastic !



PC and a Meguiars polishing pad. Optimum stays wet and can be worked a loooong time so it can remove up to medium defects with a PC....although on that particular car, I used Detailer's Pride Super Swirl Eliminator as a first step since I needed something even more aggressive. What continues to really impress me about Optimum Polish is how nice it finishes.
 
JBM said:
Scott, did you polish that with a rotary?



It is simply freakin fantastic !



PC and a Meguiars polishing pad. Optimum stays wet and can be worked a loooong time so it can remove up to medium defects with a PC....although on that particular car, I used Detailer's Pride Super Swirl Eliminator as a first step since I needed something even more aggressive. What continues to really impress me about Optimum Polish is how nice it finishes.
 
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