getting 90%+ from one step

Got_Leather said:
I am also not saying that it can't fill, if you put it on and only work it for 10-15 seconds I'm sure it will. Fully work it into the paint until it almost absorbs into it and your set.



^^^I use Poli-Seal the same way.



Bryan: I agree that directions should probably be read and that manufacturers/retailers should know their products best, but, where Chem. Guys is concerned, I take their product descriptions with a grain of salt.

Their website and product label descriptions don't exactly inspire confidence or a feeling of authoritative knowledge.

I've used their products and like them for the most part, but I just don't like dealing with them....their product pitches are loaded with too much B.S.

There's too much product overlap and it's tough to tell which exact product would BEST suit your needs.



Just my 2 cents.......
 
gofast908z- Jeff, the CTS looks great for one step.



Although I have finished off with just SIP before, I usually follow it with 85rd or 106fa via PC7424. It only takes and additional 20 minutes to zip over the car once it has been polished with SIP and almost guarantee's no holograms and really deepens/darkens the paint.



Question: What size orange pad did you use? Pad size makes a huge difference...



I prefer using 5.5 inch flat orange pads with Menzerna Power Finish PO203S for 1-steps. PO203S has a little less cut than SIP, but has lots of working time, so you can really work it in and get some pretty good correction out of it while finishing perfect on black. It's definitely worth picking some up. It's a killer 1-step and also works great following a heavy compound on the PC.



Bryan and DJ: You guys both have good points regarding EZ Creme Glaze and both know what you're doing. It's actually pretty funny, because I just used it for the first time yesterday on a Jerez Black BMW M3.



Ryan and I performed a full correction, then decided to give the EZ Creme Glaze a try. I never use glazes, but heard this product was a little different. The product goes on super easy and comes off even easier. It really gave the paint a slick feel and wasn't oily like other glazes. It made the application and removal of Collinite 915 super easy and looked great when we were done.



We already had a perfect finish before the EZCG, so I have no idea if it fills or not, but it made the paint look perfect under the halogens and removes any residue left on the finish before applying the LSP. I really do like it and will continue to test it out on different cars to see if it affects appearance, durability, protection, etc...
 
RickRack said:
We already had a perfect finish before the EZCG, so I have no idea if it fills or not, but it made the paint look perfect under the halogens and removes any residue left on the finish before applying the LSP. I really do like it and will continue to test it out on different cars to see if it affects appearance, durability, protection, etc...



Rick - EZ Creme should be worked into the paint until it dissapears. There is not much to wipe off.



Is the EZ what I sent Ryan or a new bottle? :rofl:rofl:roflIt sure takes a while for him to try something different. :D:D:D



Just like Poli Seal, if you use it with a finishing pad, it can hide - I guess. I like using it with a white or orange pad.



When is the write up going to be viewable??????



Happy 2010 Rick.
 
Got_Leather said:
You also have to remember that people who sell products from other companies are only using the descriptions that they are pretty much giving.



People who sell CG stuff are only going to know what CG says on their site. There have been numerous times where 5-6 wipe downs did nothing and EZ Creme cleaned even further and showed a few imperfections remaining.



Let's face it, how many time do us pro's listen to the product description and directions? I sure don't.



I am also not saying that it can't fill, if you put it on and only work it for 10-15 seconds I'm sure it will. Fully work it into the paint until it almost absorbs into it and your set. I only use it to prep the surface before any sealant is applied. If I needed to fill, I would use something else.



Just give it a shot, it really is a great product. Works great on glass to.



DJ - why :wall with someone who hasn't even tried it? Put your energy into :waxing:
 
gusbubba said:
I've one stepped some Black paints before with M105 and the TUF-BUF Black Lambswool pad on a Festool Rotex and finished LSP capable.

Mind you, these were time-crunch type details and, for my liking, could've used some finishing, but I got 90% of what I wanted and was sufficiently impressed with 105.



Really? :spit: I guess the definition of "LSP capable" and "could've used some finishing" is user defined, because I use 105/BLW alot and find myself always having to do 2 more polishing steps afterwards on dark colored paint. :nixweiss
 
Chemical Guys descriptions tell you that they can pretty much raise the dead, so you can't put any stock in what it says on the description. Just like Zaino Z5, which I like by the way, tells you its a swirl hider, ugh guess what, it isn't. Most guys around here long enough should know to test test test products and come to there own conclusions on exactly what it will or won't do.
 
There is always going to be questions concerning something or some product unless you have intimate knowledge of a products capabilities in all kinds of situations, that being said this product to me at least is a paint enhancer AFTER the proper corrective techniques have been completed.



For someone doing one step details or quickies, the RIDS and or holograms will be slightly diminished but not corrected because that is not what the product is for anyway and I do not use it in that manner as well as it gives extra depth and a anti-static property to the finish just before your favorite sealant or wax is applied. In addition I have not had one problem with any sealant used as it pertains to bonding etc.....



One particular soft BMW I did a couple of years ago, I completed all the steps then applied the glaze but did a thorough IPA wipedown as at that time I did not have the countless details using this product and was concerned it might mask something only to pop out at a later time, saw the car at the mall shopping a month or two later in the hot July sun and no issues(of course the car is black) so after that I never looked back...... not once.
 
David Fermani said:
Really? :spit: I guess the definition of "LSP capable" and "could've used some finishing" is user defined, because I use 105/BLW alot and find myself always having to do 2 more polishing steps afterwards on dark colored paint. :nixweiss





I agree, and sometimes three if I want the ultimate in depth and clarity on hard Ferrari or Porsche finishes.
 
tdekany said:
DJ - why :wall with someone who hasn't even tried it? Put your energy into :waxing:
As DJ pointed out on glass it rocks, but I have found CG's Wet Mirror works even better on glass with the right towel.
 
Auto Concierge said:
I agree, and sometimes three if I want the ultimate in depth and clarity on hard Ferrari or Porsche finishes.



Even when we did crappy dealer cars we always followed BLW with foam. I can't imagine all the $$/time we would have saved on 1000's of applications that really didn't need refinement afterwards. (probably would have paid for both kid's Masters degrees).



Just goes to show how 1 person's perception of finished is another's of just starting out. Some think a perfectly brand new car only needs LSP, others automatically go right to polishing. Hence..."Your Mileage Might Vary"
 
Cleaning Fool said:
There is the "Holier Than Thou" crowd who feel you can't do this and you can't use that if you are a true Autopian..LOL..



Only if them Holier then thou actually knew how to use certain products. They would be better detailers!!! :2thumbs:
 
tdekany said:
DJ - why :wall with someone who hasn't even tried it? Put your energy into :waxing:



Then what are you doing in this thread Thomas? You should put your energy into making money, as I recall that is the only reason you said you are here.
 
Auto Concierge said:
There is always going to be questions concerning something or some product unless you have intimate knowledge of a products capabilities in all kinds of situations, that being said this product to me at least is a paint enhancer AFTER the proper corrective techniques have been completed.



For someone doing one step details or quickies, the RIDS and or holograms will be slightly diminished but not corrected because that is not what the product is for anyway and I do not use it in that manner as well as it gives extra depth and a anti-static property to the finish just before your favorite sealant or wax is applied. In addition I have not had one problem with any sealant used as it pertains to bonding etc.....



One particular soft BMW I did a couple of years ago, I completed all the steps then applied the glaze but did a thorough IPA wipedown as at that time I did not have the countless details using this product and was concerned it might mask something only to pop out at a later time, saw the car at the mall shopping a month or two later in the hot July sun and no issues(of course the car is black) so after that I never looked back...... not once.



Thanks Bob! Reminds me of using ZAIO before Z2/5 after you are 100% happy with your finishing work.
 
RickRack said:
Bryan and DJ: You guys both have good points regarding EZ Creme Glaze and both know what you're doing. It's actually pretty funny, because I just used it for the first time yesterday on a Jerez Black BMW M3.



Ryan and I performed a full correction, then decided to give the EZ Creme Glaze a try. I never use glazes, but heard this product was a little different. The product goes on super easy and comes off even easier. It really gave the paint a slick feel and wasn't oily like other glazes. It made the application and removal of Collinite 915 super easy and looked great when we were done.



We already had a perfect finish before the EZCG, so I have no idea if it fills or not, but it made the paint look perfect under the halogens and removes any residue left on the finish before applying the LSP. I really do like it and will continue to test it out on different cars to see if it affects appearance, durability, protection, etc...



Thanks for your input Rick! I talked to Ryan today and he told me of your findings. Please keep us informed. :up
 
weekendwarrior said:
I have a wetsand and buff scheduled for tomorrow, along with a sample of EZ Creme. I am going to try this shiznit out.



Looking fwd to hearing your thoughts David!



But be careful what you say, you don't want to get thrown into the "Holier Than Thou" crowd.



It's lonely at the top my friend. :help: ;)
 
David Fermani said:
Really? :spit: I guess the definition of "LSP capable" and "could've used some finishing" is user defined, because I use 105/BLW alot and find myself always having to do 2 more polishing steps afterwards on dark colored paint. :nixweiss



David, for details I'm being paid personally by the owner themselves, then I agree some follow-up is necessary to get the paint to where "I" want it.

However, and maybe I should've clarified this, the vehicles I'm referring to are dealer jobs. For the little money dealership detailers make per vehicle, the extra finishing is not worth it....especially for a boss or owner who doesn't know the difference and certainly isn't going to pay for the extra polishing.

So, if I can get 90% in one step and have it LSP "capable" (not LSP "ready"), then I'll take it every time.

Some of us have to do the best we can with what we're given sometimes and don't have the luxury of having a large, wealthy and discerning client-base in a high income area.

I should probably apologize for making some of my livelihood in a pragmatic, non-Autopian manner.
 
gusbubba said:
Some of us have to do the best we can with what we're given sometimes and don't have the luxury of having a large, wealthy and discerning client-base in a high income area.



Gotcha, but using foam after BLW was the Standard Operating Procedure at my shop when we did $60-$90 complete details on dealer cars. I guess you're lucky by having dealers that don't know what compound swirls are. :har:
 
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