Garage Door Insulation

[imported_RedlineIRL]

I am working on doing some improvements on the new garage, and one of them I am considering is insulating the garage door. The current door is a little bit older model before insulated doors were the usual standard. I used a laser thermometer and the metal door from the inside of the garage was reading about the same temperature as outside, so its definitely allowing the cold air through.



I was looking at Home Depot and came across these DIY garage door insualtion pannels



Garage Door Insulation Kit-500824 at The Home Depot



To do a 2 car garage, looks like I will need two of these kits. So I'll have around $120 tied up in this if I go this route. Has anyone used a similar type of insulation on their garage doors on here? I was wondering if these will make a noticeable improvement before getting them

 

[Jokeman]

I installed one of those Home Depot kits. Last night it was about 25 degrees out. I put an IR thermometer on the outside of the door and it was around 27. I did the same on the inside of the door and it was around 39. So for the price it isnt bad. Make sure the edges of your door are sealed.

 

[Ron Ketcham]

Got the same steel door sort of thing.

I went to the local lumber yard and bought some 5/8th inch white strofoam cheap panels, white.

Measured, cut (easy to cut with any knife, etc), fit them so they would insert into the channels of each panel.

Some liquid nail adhesive on the steel, put them in and they have been there for the third winter.

Cost, maybe $20 tops.

Plus the white foam aids in the light of the shop.

Grumpy

 

[Brad B]

I purchased bulk foam panels and cut them to size myself. It made a huge difference in cooling/ heating and noise reduction! Do it!

 

[salty]

I have a wood door and screwed foam on it. Also did whatever else could be done to make it better. Works well enough up here in cold Canada

 

[Street5927]

I kicked this idea around a little, but was concerned about any added weight to the door. I know foam insulation is not that heavy, but after time, will the added weight (regardless of how slight) take it's toll on the opener?

 

[Ron Ketcham]

Not the white styro foam, it's like air. On my single door, doubt that it added 1 lb.

 

[CTSV]

I kicked this idea around a little, but was concerned about any added weight to the door. I know foam insulation is not that heavy, but after time, will the added weight (regardless of how slight) take it's toll on the opener?

as in eletric garage opener? Not at all.. the whole door is made from steel and aluminum. 5-10 extra pounds probally isn't even enough of a varience from what some doors weigh anyway.

 

[Accumulator]

Hmm... I might oughta consider that insulation for the overhead doors that are "actually part of the house". Just wish I could do something for the steel roll-up doors on the shop.

 

[salty]

The foam weighs nothing, as stated. Me having a wooded door helps a great deal. Steel is cold.



Didn't help that it is -40 F or C (wind chill) the last couple days, and my dad tried to back through it yesterday. Damage was not that bad, but I've never felt my heart drop that bad or a door bend that much and still be half assed usable. $1000's dollars of chemical was in danger and an extractor.

 

[imported_RedlineIRL]

I installed one of those Home Depot kits. Last night it was about 25 degrees out. I put an IR thermometer on the outside of the door and it was around 27. I did the same on the inside of the door and it was around 39. So for the price it isnt bad. Make sure the edges of your door are sealed.

The insualtion pannels in the kit seem kind of bulky from what I have seen. Did you notice that it added much entra weight to where you had to adjust the tension on the door opener?

Got the same steel door sort of thing.

I went to the local lumber yard and bought some 5/8th inch white strofoam cheap panels, white.

Measured, cut (easy to cut with any knife, etc), fit them so they would insert into the channels of each panel.

Some liquid nail adhesive on the steel, put them in and they have been there for the third winter.

Cost, maybe $20 tops.

Plus the white foam aids in the light of the shop.

Grumpy

Now that is a good idea. Do you happen to know what the R rating is on the foam you used? If it is as effective as the insualtion kit, this sounds like a cheaper and better solution

 

[Ron Ketcham]

Nope, have no idea of the R rating.

All I know is that they insulate quite well, used my infared thermometer to measure without one day, was 15F outside, inside of door was 16F.

After I put up the foam, was 20F outside, inside of door was within 5 degrees of interior temp, which at the time was 61F.

All I know is that is works, it's inexpensive and a good friend who is a home builder thinks I am now a genius.

Grumpy

 

[Jokeman]

The insualtion pannels in the kit seem kind of bulky from what I have seen. Did you notice that it added much entra weight to where you had to adjust the tension on the door opener?

Nope, it doesnt weigh all that much. For 50 bucks you really cant beat it. It actually looks pretty good too on the back of the door. My original plan was to use insulpink foam but it would have cost me about 80 bucks.

 

[imported_RedlineIRL]

Thanks everyone, I will be getting some of the foam insulation to try out. I think it will look better than the standard pink insuation used in the kits anyways, plus at a fraction of the cost

 

[brucewilles]

Hey!! can anybody please help me!! I am making a new garage in my home so can any one help me as a guide to tell which things are specially essential to have a good garage??? one of my friend suggested me to use a garage door opener!! But i am little stressed to buy any thing costly, so can any one please suggest me some good products??

 

[silver2kws6]

This is a genius idea and even though i live in the south can still be useful ! I am so glad i found this forum !

 

[Stokdgs]

I have had a 2-door garage with both doors Insulated from the factory and they were the best thing you could ever do to a garage door.
Much quieter, and the garage is much warmer and cooler when appropriate..
Make sure you get the rubber long gaskets that go between the door Edges and block out all the space that is sometimes there..
Then, you will have a really nice room/s and not just a cold, drafty, garage..
Im thinking the denser the foam the better..
Good luck with this !
Dan F

 

[KBzPTGT]

I used r11 unfaced fiberglass batting. At the suggestion of a garage door guy I had him upgrade the door springs to whatever the next stronger size was. They were $60 each installed and needed two of them. The opener is 1/3hp. The springs make up for the heavier weight so there is no added stress on the opener.

 

[XxBoostinxX]

I sell Liftmaster openers and Clopay doors for a living. If you ever have any questions don't hesitate to ask.

If you are building a new garage I would do at least steel back insulated doors. They are more expensive, but are a higher quality door. Don't do glass, it's never insulated and have to pay a hefty add-on for insulated glass. I have glass and about to replace the glass sections with regular sections because I rather have the insulation. I would also do belt drives if you have any living space above the garage. The belt drives with steel back doors are super quiet. I have two bedrooms above my garage and you never know when they open or close.

Now when it comes to adding insulation to your non-insulated doors. Be careful adding too much weight to some of your doors. Especially insulation that aren't made specifically for garage doors. It can mess with the spring rates. There are about a million different springs for all the doors available. Every door has specific springs based on their weight and adding weight can throw off the spring or even cause the spring to wear out sooner and possibly break.

 

[XxBoostinxX]

I used r11 unfaced fiberglass batting. At the suggestion of a garage door guy I had him upgrade the door springs to whatever the next stronger size was. They were $60 each installed and needed two of them. The opener is 1/3hp. The springs make up for the heavier weight so there is no added stress on the opener.

Good job . At least you did it the correct way. We have had contractors and owners add wood to the front of their doors and wonder why their doors don't operate correctly.