frustrated newbie with a PC

Well, if you didn't remove the swirl marks, then it won't hurt to keep testing the same section.



If you break down the polish properly, it should be almost dry when you take the polish off with a MF towel. There shouldn't be a light haze after you finish buffing of with a MF towel. Try working the polish a bit longer.
 
Even though it's been a while in this case, I've had fairly fresh repaints that were just too soft for #80- its initial cut left hazing that it couldn't remove as it broke down. I had to use a much milder polish than normal until the paint hardened up more.
 
I talked with a meguire's rep about 83 a how difficult it was to remove. He recommended misting the area with final detail or similar products. It worked..
 
jimc said:
I talked with a meguire's rep about 83 a how difficult it was to remove. He recommended misting the area with final detail or similar products. It worked..





UPDATE 9/3



thanks for the help. i worked the product more and it was much easier to wipe off. I used the 83 with a white then followed up with an 80 with a white. I fixed the problems i caused before and im happy with the end result. As of now i dont see a need to go to the orange pad but maybe ill give it a shot in more problem areas.



Now my final step will be NXT with a black pad. Any tips on working that?? Do i work that as long on speed 5 til is disappears pretty much???
 
Accumulator said:
Even though it's been a while in this case, I've had fairly fresh repaints that were just too soft for #80- its initial cut left hazing that it couldn't remove as it broke down. I had to use a much milder polish than normal until the paint hardened up more.



so on my fresh painted hood and bumper would you suggest i use #9????
 
technomafia said:
Now my final step will be NXT with a black pad. Any tips on working that?? Do i work that as long on speed 5 til is disappears pretty much???



With NXT, you don't need such a high speed. Instead of working the product, NXT is a wax, so it is simply applied. You can use speed 3-4.
 
technomafia said:
so on my fresh painted hood and bumper would you suggest i use #9????



I dunno...I used Griot's Machine Polish #3. The #9 might be an OK choice, but you'll first have to figure out what's really going on- are you causing haze with the stuff you're using now or are you dealing with marring that's already there?
 
technomafia, where are you located? Maybe someone locally can help you sort this out. The PC can take some practice to get the right pad and product combo that works for you.
 
Im slowly figuring this all out. I looked at my work from yesterday and it seems alot better then before. I still do notice a little bit of micromarring even after applying #80. Will the marring go away once I apply my NXT??? Or should I apply 80 again?? I also have some DC2 polish in the garage, should I try that over the 80??
 
DC polish is a glaze.



Whats happening when you use the 80?



Is it drying out on you and dusting?



Is it turning translucent before you buff it off?
 
JBM said:
DC polish is a glaze.



Whats happening when you use the 80?



Is it drying out on you and dusting?



Is it turning translucent before you buff it off?





everything is working out much better since i posted my problem. i start with my 83 with a white. PC it til its almost clear and it comes off easy now. i see some marring and follow up with 80 with a white. PC til clear and it wipes off no problem. But I still see some slight marring. it definitely inproved after applying the 80 but I can still see a tiny bit. should I just 80 it over again??
 
technomafia said:
everything is working out much better since i posted my problem.... But I still see some slight marring. it definitely inproved after applying the 80 but I can still see a tiny bit. should I just 80 it over again??



I'd *guess* that yeah, you oughta use the #80 some more. Try to figure out if it's *causing* the micromarring. If you have some #9/#82 you might switch to that (but expect to do numerous passes).



The NXT will hide a bit of stuff, as will the DC#2, but I'd probably work on it some more with the abrasives.



But hey, at some point you might want to just say "good enough"..I know that point of view isn't too popular here at Autopia (more of my Autopina Heresy :D ) but hey, how much does it really bother you. Maybe letting the paint harden for another month and then trying again would be an OK way to go :nixweiss
 
Quick question for all:



What's brand of orange pad are you guys talking about? or the white pad?



I love the idea of the 4" pad, which brand should I buy? I am using #83 and #80 also.



Thanks!~
 
Yuri2002 said:
Quick question for all:



What's brand of orange pad are you guys talking about? or the white pad?



I love the idea of the 4" pad, which brand should I buy? I am using #83 and #80 also.



Thanks!~





I've used Lake orange and Cyclo 4" orange. For white, I've used both Sonus/SFX and Lake. IIRC my 4" white ones are the SFX brand.



I also use Griot's orange, but it's a different animal, not much cut at all but very firm and durable. Don't think that's what you're after in this case.
 
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