briarpatch
New member
In what aspect(s) was it lacking....foaming, cleaning power? Did you use it as a presoak?
Foaming Question
- Thread starter jw3571
- Start date
In what aspect(s) was it lacking....foaming, cleaning power? Did you use it as a presoak?
Mary B
New member
I`m not a fan of the 2 bucket method.
Foam w/ IK9, IK12, or Cannon.
Rinse
1 bucket wash w/ several wash pads, never using the same one twice.
Rinse
Dry
I forgot to say a good first rinse is a must for me.
Foam w/ IK9, IK12, or Cannon.
Rinse
1 bucket wash w/ several wash pads, never using the same one twice.
Rinse
Dry
I forgot to say a good first rinse is a must for me.
BudgetPlan1
Active member
I was using it about at their 1:9 ratio in my PF22 cannon, just didnt get a `Wow, that worked well` feeling from it, was just `ok`.
I`m never really washing dirty cars so cleaning power hard to judge. I kinda like a thinner foam as opposed to a shaving cream type of deal, a wetter foam that is only thick enough to cling for recommended time. It just didn`t work notably well in that particular kind of situation.
It`s got good reviews from what I`ve seen but just didn`t work particularly well in my world.
gorram
New member
For most washes I pressure rinse to get most everything off which to the point that foam won`t help remove any easier. So I use the PF22 to foam the car up then do a multiple mitt wash with one bucket with a weak Reset dilution.
If the car is filthy I might pre foam and rinse, even with a strong soap like Reset I don`t see it removing anything more than the 40 degree pressure nozzle gets.
If the car is filthy I might pre foam and rinse, even with a strong soap like Reset I don`t see it removing anything more than the 40 degree pressure nozzle gets.
Dan
Well-known member
Yeah, I know it amounts to autopian heresy but I just don`t see any impacts for the duration that I own my cars. I`ve gone 3 plus years in normal daily driver use. Claying and life related abrasions are the primary need for me to follow with a Polish.
PoweredByJenga
New member
For me, i try to get as much dirt off before contact wash. So PW rinse 1st, then pre wash foam, 2nd PW rinse after few mins, 2nd iteration of pre wash (i normally use 1000 ml bottle, so 500ml for 1st pre wash and the 2nd 500 ml 2nd pre wash). I use the 2nd iteration to add extra lubricity for my one bucket 7+ mitt wash method. Foam it and start the mitt wash process straight away.
Cheers
Sent from my MI MAX using Tapatalk
Cheers
Sent from my MI MAX using Tapatalk
Coatings=crack
Active member
I prefoam before PW’ing to hopefully soften up if anything is kinda stuck to the paint. Hopes of PW off and it not marring as it comes off. Figure the foam will encapsulate it as it tumbles off.
I also am fan of one bucket. Cyclone on the bottem and multiple wash medias. I use MF for top and chenille for bottom.
I have a dirtlock (several vendors sell it) in my waterless bucket although no used wash media goes back in their either. Better than cyclone or GG in my opinion
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I also am fan of one bucket. Cyclone on the bottem and multiple wash medias. I use MF for top and chenille for bottom.
I have a dirtlock (several vendors sell it) in my waterless bucket although no used wash media goes back in their either. Better than cyclone or GG in my opinion
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
briarpatch
New member
Thank you...I`m kind of in the same boat...our vehicles never really get that dirty, so cleaning power has always been a tough category for me to judge.
Just want to show how it looked like when I washed the Focus a week or so ago.
Before picture and not any prerinse until the foam has dwelled enough. This is when I get the extreme dirty paint. But also the extreme effectiveness from the PW if you use it to clean with the water pressure from it. I have a Kärcher K7 electric PW with around 2300psi and 2.6gpm from it.
This needs to be helped to be desolved. So I don`t get as much of dirt with especially road film in the wash media. We have a product called with translate Sonax Extreme Intensive Degreaser. It`s both a tar remover and iron remover in one like the Carpro TRIX is.
Spray it on the dirty car and let it dwell. This is extremly tixotropic so you see very little of run off from this product. It can be on for a long time without drying on the paint cause of that. Here`s it`s applyied and also dwelled for almost 5min. Also applyied from the front wheels and back and from the bottom and up to the door handles.
Something that we usually does here in Sweden when we use a tar remover. Is that we either spray on an alkaline based degreaser right over this like with Bilt Hamber Surfex HD or an APC solution that`s easy rinsed off on the paint and don`t have any fabric softener or brighterner or other things some APC leaves behind sadly. So look for one that`s great to use on the exterior as well.
And of cause you can foam over the tar remover as well. A 50/50 mix of Bilt Hamber Surfex HD and the BH Auto-Foam in the foamcannon bottle and the chemical mix setting on the foamcannon so it gave me that little runnier foam these have.
On the picture the BH Foam has dwelled over 5 minutes. And it may be looking as it`s dryed on the paint. But nope it`s still wet paint but the foam is gone LOL. Then a pass back and forth with the PW just little closer than a foot away. The original nozzle tip on the K7 wand has between 15-20 degree angle. Armspeed is maybe 4" per second or something like that LOL. And to also notice that the LSP was done and the water standing on the paint after the washing still. The water pressure from the PW to clean with does the heavy lifting. And the extra with the Sonax Extreme Intensive Degreaser and BH mixed foam does give me that little extra cleaning ability from it that keeps the bonded contaminants in the longrun almost not haveing any even after over 2 years.
This is why I`m not personally don`t wash without a prewash and a PW. With a garden hose I don`t think that I would get it half as cleaned. But the contact wash would still be needed less aggitations if I didn`t do a prewash I think. If I remember it I will test with just rinse it off with a garden hose on one side and the PW on the other side.
Here is the other side with a domestic brand and a Cold Degreaser/ tar remover. And foamed with the BH foam mix.
Skickat från min SM-T595 via Tapatalk
Before picture and not any prerinse until the foam has dwelled enough. This is when I get the extreme dirty paint. But also the extreme effectiveness from the PW if you use it to clean with the water pressure from it. I have a Kärcher K7 electric PW with around 2300psi and 2.6gpm from it.
This needs to be helped to be desolved. So I don`t get as much of dirt with especially road film in the wash media. We have a product called with translate Sonax Extreme Intensive Degreaser. It`s both a tar remover and iron remover in one like the Carpro TRIX is.
Spray it on the dirty car and let it dwell. This is extremly tixotropic so you see very little of run off from this product. It can be on for a long time without drying on the paint cause of that. Here`s it`s applyied and also dwelled for almost 5min. Also applyied from the front wheels and back and from the bottom and up to the door handles.
Something that we usually does here in Sweden when we use a tar remover. Is that we either spray on an alkaline based degreaser right over this like with Bilt Hamber Surfex HD or an APC solution that`s easy rinsed off on the paint and don`t have any fabric softener or brighterner or other things some APC leaves behind sadly. So look for one that`s great to use on the exterior as well.
And of cause you can foam over the tar remover as well. A 50/50 mix of Bilt Hamber Surfex HD and the BH Auto-Foam in the foamcannon bottle and the chemical mix setting on the foamcannon so it gave me that little runnier foam these have.
On the picture the BH Foam has dwelled over 5 minutes. And it may be looking as it`s dryed on the paint. But nope it`s still wet paint but the foam is gone LOL. Then a pass back and forth with the PW just little closer than a foot away. The original nozzle tip on the K7 wand has between 15-20 degree angle. Armspeed is maybe 4" per second or something like that LOL. And to also notice that the LSP was done and the water standing on the paint after the washing still. The water pressure from the PW to clean with does the heavy lifting. And the extra with the Sonax Extreme Intensive Degreaser and BH mixed foam does give me that little extra cleaning ability from it that keeps the bonded contaminants in the longrun almost not haveing any even after over 2 years.
This is why I`m not personally don`t wash without a prewash and a PW. With a garden hose I don`t think that I would get it half as cleaned. But the contact wash would still be needed less aggitations if I didn`t do a prewash I think. If I remember it I will test with just rinse it off with a garden hose on one side and the PW on the other side.
Here is the other side with a domestic brand and a Cold Degreaser/ tar remover. And foamed with the BH foam mix.
Skickat från min SM-T595 via Tapatalk
Accumulator
Well-known member
Eh, this might sound much more, uhm..critical/snarky/bad than I intend, but if things didn`t get quite clean with just the pre-wash pressure washer rinsing, I`d want a different LSP. The rinsing gets caked with Winter [crap] vehicles look "already clean" before I even start with what I think of as "the real wash".
SWETM- I`m actually a little surprised that the "extreme dirty paint" isn`t a *LOT* worse! I don`t think that looks all that dirty for Winter, ours get much worse. Although the dirt/etc. you`re dealing with sounds a lot harder to wash off, so your products are indeed working well.
Coatings=crack- I`ve never seen any indication that the dirt "tumbling off" will cause even the lightest micromarring. I don`t have stupid-soft paint or anything, but still...I just pressure washer rinse utterly crusty vehicles with zero problems at all. Yeah, I was a little surprised that I could get away with it, but I always have. Whenever I tried pre-treating before using the pressure washer, it seemed like a complete waste.
YMMV of course, just relating my experience.
SWETM- I`m actually a little surprised that the "extreme dirty paint" isn`t a *LOT* worse! I don`t think that looks all that dirty for Winter, ours get much worse. Although the dirt/etc. you`re dealing with sounds a lot harder to wash off, so your products are indeed working well.
Coatings=crack- I`ve never seen any indication that the dirt "tumbling off" will cause even the lightest micromarring. I don`t have stupid-soft paint or anything, but still...I just pressure washer rinse utterly crusty vehicles with zero problems at all. Yeah, I was a little surprised that I could get away with it, but I always have. Whenever I tried pre-treating before using the pressure washer, it seemed like a complete waste.
YMMV of course, just relating my experience.
Dan
Well-known member
The funny thing to me is how comfortable everyone seems to be with pressure washing these days. I remember being chastised for daring to use one a decade ago.
Accumulator
Well-known member
It wasn`t all *that* long ago that Mickelin released their TSB about never using one on wheels/tires lest you mess up the tire`s bead.
I was leery of them and *never* would`ve (nor would now) use on on some of the vehicles I used to have; too great a risk of damage. On the `93 Audi I have to be *VERY* careful even with my weak AR lest I blow something like a trim piece off the car. Fragile vehicles are, well...fragile. Even on the sturdier vehicles I don`t use it on things like the wipers.
I still don`t like rinsing shampoo off with it; I prefer water *volume* over water pressure for that.
BudgetPlan1
Active member
The LSPs of some I use works pretty well in the self cleaning ability from them. But with winter dirt it`s not that much of a difference. You can see slightly differences between them. And it`s also much about how the vehicals is with accumulate dirt build up as that`s a difference between them too. Like mostly in Sweden on new vehicals if you go back around 20 years. They had mud flaps or how to describe it. The bigger wheels gets vehicals higher up from the ground but also sling up more dirt. Station wagons and hatchback is the most popular modells here. And those with a flat/vertical kind of back of the vehical that don`t have any roof wings that`s effective to get the air stream down on the back of these vehicals. Can get real messy fast. Then how it`s driven and stored comes also in the play.
Even if the LSP was failed on it. It some how gets less dirty. So even if it don`t beads any so maybe there where some sheeting properties from it until the wash. It`s somewhere in the middle of the dirt amount generally speaking this winter season. It`s just above the freezing point and sometimes just under it during the nights. Therehas been raining a lot though for being here. So the most of the road salt and road film gets flushed off the roads I think. It`s when it`s just under the freezing point and some snow now or then that the road salt keeps the roads wet and they spread it out around 4-5 times a day. And then gets dry and under the freezing point it`s usually a great combo of it to get a lot of dirt build up on the vehicals. The biggest difference I think is that we have a law of having winter tires on here between december to april when it`s winter weather. So the winter tires stays on even when not needed to be on. And that it`s a least 50/50 with studded winter tires and winter tires. This wears hard on the roads the studded winter tires as you see it is on this Ford Focus.
Then it`s also much about if you are able to be washing your vehical or not. That can be much of a difference too and much about where you live and what options that you have to wash your vehical. So it`s so much difference in the environment you live in and anything else.
Accumulator
Well-known member
SWETM- Yeah, I always figure your situation over there is very different from what I experience here.
And yeah, my wagons/SUVs have always gotten *filthy* on the trailing surfaces too, literally can`t tell what color they are and gotta be so careful that nothing touches them lest they get marred. But it all washes right off, with 99% of it coming off with the initial (pressure washer) rinse even if I let them stay nasty for weeks (yeah, that`s Autopian Heresy
but I`m not letting the Vehicle Tail wag Life`s Dog any more 
).
And yeah, my wagons/SUVs have always gotten *filthy* on the trailing surfaces too, literally can`t tell what color they are and gotta be so careful that nothing touches them lest they get marred. But it all washes right off, with 99% of it coming off with the initial (pressure washer) rinse even if I let them stay nasty for weeks (yeah, that`s Autopian Heresy
but I`m not letting the Vehicle Tail wag Life`s Dog any more ).