Flooding to help w/ removal of 'nubas?

C

citizen arcane

New member
I've just recently introduced myself to carnuba waxes and have had at times some probs removing the CMW that I use. I always apply and remove in the shade but w/ the hot and humid summer days that I've been applying I sometimes have probs completely removing it. It's put on via PC and 4" pads ever so thinly (less than an oz. per car) and allowed to haze, there are times when I still see buffer trails from application. I notice a rewash will remove these traces and all seems well.



So......I come across an article that recommends flooding the surface w/ water and use a cloth or wash mitt to agitate the wax for removal. It also said this is a popular method of removal practiced by many car detailers and prevents dust. Any credence to this? Along this same line any tips/tricks on removal is appreciated.



Edit: I remember my dad using Simonize paste wax and flowing water from the hose to 'set it up'. Lord, I wish he were still around to discuss cars with:sadpace:
 
Hi,

I'd switch to a bigger pad (real soft too) and only apply at a low speed (2 or 3 at most) if I were to use a PC for wax application. Wax does not need to be worked like a polish. That should help it come off better. But that is just my opinion. Hope that helps.
 
citizen arcane- I suspect the previous repliers have perhaps missed the point...right?



Noting that a) I've been working in climate controlled shops since forever, and b) I've never used (or even seen) CMW, I dunno how helpful I can be, but perhaps some of the following might be helpful...



A larger pad might result in a less aggressive wax application. Perhaps the CMW would be happier that way. The #16 I use *does* like to be "worked" but many other waxes simply need to be "applied" if you get the difference. FWIW, I *always* apply waxes at speed 4-4.5.



I'd try using even *less* wax. Yeah, I know...but I really do use a *LOT* less than I think you're using. But sometimes using less wax results in a more aggressive applicaton and that can lead to the type of problem you're having.



To the point of your *real* Q- I've never tried flooding the unbuffed wax and then agitating it :think: My gut feeling is that it wouldn't be a good idea. For one thing, if it did a solvent actionon the wax you could end up with wax residue everywhere (nooks and crannies, trim edges, *everywhere*). It sounds like a weird, half-@$$ed version of spit shining, but that's just *IMO* and I don't mean to slam anybody (and hey, I've never tried it). Sounds like a lot to be doing to the whole vehicle though, and I sure wouldn't want sections to start drying before I got to them.



The cold water spray *after* buffing, to set the wax, *does* work though.



So I think what I'd do is buff it off normally first. This'll presumably leave you with the residue issues but it'll also get most of the excess wax off. *Then* spray with cold water and rebuff.
 
When I apply CMW I put it on the panel and put the applicator down and wipe off the panel I just did. I don't let it sit on there for a while, I don't know if this isn't allowing the wax to cure properly but it gets too hot here to let it sit. The only problem I had once was I let it sit too long which here in Houston could be 5 sec with this heat and it left some dark streaks you could barely see. I used some QD and it came off.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top