Flex 3401 Trimmed Backing Plate
- Thread starter imported_nihoole
- Start date
Brad B
New member
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Todd [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Brad B. the mess I can stand but that ladder is way to close to that Jag and that bothers me
[/b]</blockquote>
Sorry, the ladder was a temporary thing! It's gone now! It was bad. Very bad.
All my florescents (sp?) are 40 watters.
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Todd [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Brad B. the mess I can stand but that ladder is way to close to that Jag and that bothers me
[/b]</blockquote>Sorry, the ladder was a temporary thing! It's gone now! It was bad. Very bad.
All my florescents (sp?) are 40 watters.
To the poster who had a bulb break over his car:
Home Depot sells clear sleeves that the tube slides into so in the event a bulb breaks, it will not rain glass. I also enjoy woodworking, and most woodworkers use these. That way when we cream a light with a long piece of wood, we don't pay as steep a price.
I think my garage is about the size of redcarguy's. I have two 4' 4 light fixtures and two 4' 2 light fixtures. Really makes it nice to see.
Home Depot sells clear sleeves that the tube slides into so in the event a bulb breaks, it will not rain glass. I also enjoy woodworking, and most woodworkers use these. That way when we cream a light with a long piece of wood, we don't pay as steep a price.
I think my garage is about the size of redcarguy's. I have two 4' 4 light fixtures and two 4' 2 light fixtures. Really makes it nice to see.
imported_ZGone
New member
Just finishing up on remodelling my garge. Drywalled, insulated, ceiling hung furnace, lots of lights & outlets, cable TV, phone, etc, etc. Anyway, I used some cold weather flourescent fixtures called WeatherMate's. Bought them from Home depot for around $25 or $30 a piece. These are 4 foot fixtures and have the cold weather electronic ballast. They also use a more slender 35 watt bulb. Not sure why I got the all-weather ones since I have a furnace and keep the garage at 45 degrees. Anyway, check out the weathermates at Home Depot. I'm pretty happy with them. Other good points were brought up here too. Those being; wall color and finish(flat versus semi-gloss or gloss opaint), and floor finish. All things to consider to get the most reflectiveness. Have fun.........
Cheers, Toolman
My garage is so bright, I have to wear
shades!!
Cheers, Toolman
My garage is so bright, I have to wear
shades!!GP Infinity
New member
jrush said:
Jrush, I have never heard of these before.. what are they? and what kind of fixtures do they work in? where would you get them? how much are they? you know, all the normal questions..
dboat:
http://www.truesun.com/main/fluorescent.htm
I have some of these lights. They work awesome. They are more pure, give way less yelowness, and tint to everyhting. they are very bright. I know their spendy though. They also are very good for people living in the more northern hemisphere, gives out a full spectrum of light. Makes you happy.
I have some of these lights. They work awesome. They are more pure, give way less yelowness, and tint to everyhting. they are very bright. I know their spendy though. They also are very good for people living in the more northern hemisphere, gives out a full spectrum of light. Makes you happy.
imported_gewb
New member
I've owned my Flex 3401 almost wo years and really like it for many reasons. One area where I wanted more flexability (ya, that was intended) was to use a 5.5" pad instead of the 6.5" pad. I procured a spare backing plate and went to work.
I measured out the backing plate and some LC pads to determine the minimum diameter of the backing plate - I would need a CNC or lathe to cut it down to the minium usable diameter.
Foam/hook OD (new) = 5.5"
Molded plate OD = 5.125"
Minumum usable plate OD (to metal housing) = 4.625"
The min OD wasn't much small than the OD of the molded plate (not the foam and hook portion attached to the molded plate) as I couldn't find a selection of 5" hook and loop pads - so I decided to cut off the foam/hook tapered portion first and give it a trial run.
I should have done this when I first got my Flex - what a difference!
While I have never had problems using / controlling the Flex with 6.5" pads, using the smaller 5.5" was much easier - well balanced and controlled, reduced vibration, no "wobble" at any speed setting, gets into smaller areas, and the pads are less expensive. There is a small (1/8 to 1/4") shoulder left around the pad and with just a little care posed no problems with running up to a body transition.
It is almost like using a different tool with all the benefits of the Flex DA.
5.5" Pad on backing plate before trimming
Trimmed
Plate and mounted 5.5" pad
Regards,
GEWB
I measured out the backing plate and some LC pads to determine the minimum diameter of the backing plate - I would need a CNC or lathe to cut it down to the minium usable diameter.
Foam/hook OD (new) = 5.5"
Molded plate OD = 5.125"
Minumum usable plate OD (to metal housing) = 4.625"
The min OD wasn't much small than the OD of the molded plate (not the foam and hook portion attached to the molded plate) as I couldn't find a selection of 5" hook and loop pads - so I decided to cut off the foam/hook tapered portion first and give it a trial run.
I should have done this when I first got my Flex - what a difference!
While I have never had problems using / controlling the Flex with 6.5" pads, using the smaller 5.5" was much easier - well balanced and controlled, reduced vibration, no "wobble" at any speed setting, gets into smaller areas, and the pads are less expensive. There is a small (1/8 to 1/4") shoulder left around the pad and with just a little care posed no problems with running up to a body transition.
It is almost like using a different tool with all the benefits of the Flex DA.
5.5" Pad on backing plate before trimming
Trimmed
Plate and mounted 5.5" pad
Regards,
GEWB
michakaveli
New member
looks simple enough... :doh:
imported_Flash Gordon
New member
Gary, thats very creative of you. Sounds like the ppl @ Flex may wanna hire you as a consultant on there future products /
imported_Stokdgs
New member
That is a great idea ! Thanks for sharing.. Tell me - how did you cut it the hook and loop so nicely from the backing plate with a box cutter? How did you hold the backing plate so you could do this?
I would also like the flexibility of using either the 6.5" or the L/C 5.5" pads too, and would even go as far as having a backing plate for each like you do now..
Let me know what your process was please, ok ?
Thanks for being the Engineer for this and I also hope FLEX is looking at your post !!
Dan F
I would also like the flexibility of using either the 6.5" or the L/C 5.5" pads too, and would even go as far as having a backing plate for each like you do now..
Let me know what your process was please, ok ?
Thanks for being the Engineer for this and I also hope FLEX is looking at your post !!
Dan F
bmw5541
New member
Gary,
I like to see a handy guy use his skills for good instead of evil. I think Flash is right. Flex should hire you.:clap:
I like to see a handy guy use his skills for good instead of evil. I think Flash is right. Flex should hire you.:clap:
imported_gewb
New member
Thanks everyone for your replies! Cutting the foam/hook pad is fast, easy and cheap.
Supplies:
> utility knife (similar to the picture) - about $4
> piece of corrogated cardboard, at least 12" square - free from almost anywhere
> usable BP or new BP (about $20)
> steady hand
- Place cardboard on floor (concrete floor works well).
- Place BP face down on cardboard.
- Insert utility knife blade straight down along and perpendicular to the outer edge of the pastic BK.
- Score around the BP cutting about 1/2 way through the dense foam (perhaps a little deeper).
- Repeat another revolution and just begin to cut through the thin plastic "hook" plate in places.
- Hold the BP in one hand and finish cutting the hook plate.
Done. Takes about 5 minutes and even an old f*rt with arthritis (aka "me") can do it.
Regards,
GEWB
Supplies:
> utility knife (similar to the picture) - about $4
> piece of corrogated cardboard, at least 12" square - free from almost anywhere
> usable BP or new BP (about $20)
> steady hand
- Place cardboard on floor (concrete floor works well).
- Place BP face down on cardboard.
- Insert utility knife blade straight down along and perpendicular to the outer edge of the pastic BK.
- Score around the BP cutting about 1/2 way through the dense foam (perhaps a little deeper).
- Repeat another revolution and just begin to cut through the thin plastic "hook" plate in places.
- Hold the BP in one hand and finish cutting the hook plate.
Done. Takes about 5 minutes and even an old f*rt with arthritis (aka "me") can do it.
Regards,
GEWB
imported_gewb
New member
Better yet is to use a metal cutting lathe - I would have but I don't have one (nor do my friends).
Mount the BP face toward the chuck / gear side as tail (don't crush the hooks!).
Use a sharp cutter at slow speed (RPMs) and slow feed.
Cut through the plastic and STOP at/just before the foam pad. Cut down to about 4.875" (4 7/8") OD - NO MORE THAN 4.625" or you'll cut smaller than the fit to the metal housing of the Flex!
Remove from lathe and cut foam pad with a utility knife.
Should take about 15 minutes to do.
Regards,
GEWB
Mount the BP face toward the chuck / gear side as tail (don't crush the hooks!).
Use a sharp cutter at slow speed (RPMs) and slow feed.
Cut through the plastic and STOP at/just before the foam pad. Cut down to about 4.875" (4 7/8") OD - NO MORE THAN 4.625" or you'll cut smaller than the fit to the metal housing of the Flex!
Remove from lathe and cut foam pad with a utility knife.
Should take about 15 minutes to do.
Regards,
GEWB
imported_Flash Gordon
New member
Will you preform this mod for a member? I had someone inquiring about this tonite in chat :wizard: