FK1000p vs _ test

TheMeanGreen said:
Let the testing commence!!!:autopia:

@512detail, can you manage to shoot a photo after final buffing, and post?
Click to expand...
Pass side of hood is exp, driver side is fk1000p

I can tell absolutely no visial difference, unlike with pbl sealant and fk where pbl sealant clearly darkened paint more compared to fk1000p- or fk was that much brighter and created an illusion of pbl sealant darkening compared to it

99b7a6bce2333df2ac5c6fe44add6575.jpg


2838b032015a225632df5b718d675cbb.jpg


2ea169aea77a79a361bccbab95fe9ea8.jpg
pass side (exp)

sprayed a little water
c48a6c34ccb1756545b46b63d9dc4aa6.jpg
exp

69efbfa0e5f4b473037d805567f6b77b.jpg
fk

both provide beads that look like they have metallic flake trapped inside them (a nice clear bead), which i like about fk1000p beads but never noticed about exp beads..maybe that makes no sense to anyone, but it does to me

full water test will commence tomorrow(ish)
I decided to lather my car in PA glissante yesterday evening instead of test the water behavior on my truck hood






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512detail said:
Pass side of hood is exp, driver side is fk1000p

I can tell absolutely no visial difference, unlike with pbl sealant and fk where pbl sealant clearly darkened paint more compared to fk1000p- or fk was that much brighter and created an illusion of pbl sealant darkening compared to it

99b7a6bce2333df2ac5c6fe44add6575.jpg


2838b032015a225632df5b718d675cbb.jpg


2ea169aea77a79a361bccbab95fe9ea8.jpg
pass side (exp)

sprayed a little water
c48a6c34ccb1756545b46b63d9dc4aa6.jpg
exp

69efbfa0e5f4b473037d805567f6b77b.jpg
fk

both provide beads that look like they have metallic flake trapped inside them (a nice clear bead), which i like about fk1000p beads but never noticed about exp beads..maybe that makes no sense to anyone, but it does to me

full water test will commence tomorrow(ish)
I decided to lather my car in PA glissante yesterday evening instead of test the water behavior on my truck hood




Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Looking good:cool: The difference in beading is almost negligible at first glance, but in the last photo (FK) the beading looks* to be more uniform and tighter. Most likely to do with intermolecular forces between the `sealants` and water. Did you happen to notice the sheeting of water on both sides of the hood? That FK looks like it will sheet water more efficiently.
 
oh yea, FK sheds water like CRAZY

I had it on my hood a few months ago for a while and loved it

someone had mentioned its hard to apply/remove- I have not had that issue yet..i mean its not as easy to apply/remove as PB`s products, but its pretty easy... PB products spoil me on how easy they are to remove
 
512detail said:
oh yea, FK sheds water like CRAZY

I had it on my hood a few months ago for a while and loved it

someone had mentioned its hard to apply/remove- I have not had that issue yet..i mean its not as easy to apply/remove as PB`s products, but its pretty easy... PB products spoil me on how easy they are to remove
Click to expand...

The FK is really hard to beat, for what it is. I just ran a little solvent test between Water, White Vinegar, and IPA on it. IPA was the only thing that really dissolved it, and didn`t show physical signs of degradation until 8min in. It`s some tough stuff. I`ll create a post about it soon.
 
2K4Element said:
bit off topic. But is there a shelf life on the FK1000? I have a tin that is over 10 years old.
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When it goes bad you *know* it as it dries out and becomes hard as a rock. Even then, I`ve brought it back to life (well....enough so that I could use it) by moistening it with FK425.

TheMeanGreen said:
The FK is really hard to beat, for what it is. I just ran a little solvent test between Water, White Vinegar, and IPA on it. IPA was the only thing that really dissolved it, and didn`t show physical signs of degradation until 8min in.
Click to expand...

Interesting that the IPA affected it, given how some have claimed that IPA (categorically) "doesn`t compromise LSPs".
 
Accumulator said:
When it goes bad you *know* it as it dries out and becomes hard as a rock. Even then, I`ve brought it back to life (well....enough so that I could use it) by moistening it with FK425.



Interesting that the IPA affected it, given how some have claimed that IPA (categorically) "doesn`t compromise LSPs".
Click to expand...

unless Optimum Paint prep has a flattening agent in it.. it took me three wipe downs with that product and a white micro to kill the beading on fk1000p (which I presumed meant it was gone)


just one to kill pbl sealant :(
 
i have some test tubes that have been sitting in the garage; one with Megs M16 and another with FK1000p. Small samples, and i put a bit of Griot`s Paint Prep in them. Both waxes are still fairly "solid" as of last time I checked. This was months later.
 
JustJesus said:
i have some test tubes that have been sitting in the garage; one with Megs M16 and another with FK1000p. Small samples, and i put a bit of Griot`s Paint Prep in them. Both waxes are still fairly "solid" as of last time I checked. This was months later.
Click to expand...

Huh, Paint Prep didn`t dissolve `em..that surprises me.

Good products to test as FK1000P was developed specifically to compete with M16 (Floyd`s way of sticking it to the rest of his family as I heard it).
 
Accumulator said:
Huh, Paint Prep didn`t dissolve `em..that surprises me.

Good products to test as FK1000P was developed specifically to compete with M16 (Floyd`s way of sticking it to the rest of his family as I heard it).
Click to expand...

I was surprised, too. Some agitation helped a bit, but overall the wax bit remained solid looking. I`ll try and remember to snap a pic tonight.

Cool story! Reminds me of why Ford took their GT40 to LeMans 50 years ago. :)
 
Was doing some testing. First pic is FK1000p in some GG Paint Prep. Second pic is Megs M16, also in Paint Prep.
Pics were taken last night, which is at least 5 months after I put the products together in the tube. Recent hot days got the garage up to 109* and I`m wondering if that helped break down the wax further. When I first did this, the "chunks" of wax were bigger, and the liquid (paint prep) was more transparent.





 
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