Fixing paint chips: Lexus RX350

G

Glenn J

New member
We picked up our 2013 RX350 back in August and it`s been a great vehicle for us. We bought it with just under 30k on the clock and overall, it`s in good shape.

The RX spent its earlier life in the NYC area and has a few chips and scratches here and there that I`d like to sort out.

I need some guidance on how to fix the following:

Chips someone filled with the wrong color paint. It looks like someone just picked out a random gray or silver and just gooped it on.

How to fix some basic scratches that appear to be down to the primer.

And how to fix that big chip in the a-pillar that has a bit of rust in it.

Pics are below. I can provide more if needed. Hope this is the right section to post in; been awhile since I`ve posted.

Hood chips filled with silver:
e2c0cdac7fd3c4b8a40d2e9f237bd119.jpg


A-Pillar chip:
e1afd1c885c1c8c8947e0f6e9ddd20f5.jpg


Scratches:
68903cafcc881206d5493c48fd9a04df.jpg


e3687cb870255052379e27e5dab50232.jpg


More mismatched chip repairs:
a52687dbe66cc732052b698bd55c2ca6.jpg




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Dr. Colorchip is what you need. There are some very good DIY videos on Autogeek showing exactly how to fill those chips. Don`t expect a perfect fix, but from 3 feet you probably won`t be able to tell where the chip was (the large one may be more obvious). You will have to get some rust remover and clean all of the chips with something such as isopropyl alcohol. I have used Dr. Colorchip on two vehicles and really like it.
 
Thanks! I`ve seen the ads for Dr Colorchip and always wondered if it worked. Should I apply that over the existing touch up paint?

What`s the best way to remove that small rust spot?


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I don`t think it would be a problem over old touchup paint as long as you clean with isopropyl alcohol. Hopefully someone with rust experience will chime in on prepping the large chip. I used a chemical rust remover I bought from an auto parts store, but I can`t remember the name.
 
Glenn J- Welcome to Autopia!

I`d do this work under magnification, but that`s just me.

FWIW, I find that Rubbing Alcohol is pretty marginal at best when it comes to cleaning such stuff for paint prep. I`d use a solvent actually made for this from an Autobody/paint supply store instead (actually, I`m currently liking Pre from Eastwood.com).

Old touchup paint is easily removed with Langka`s Blob Eliminator solvent, or lacquer thinner, but be careful (especially with the latter) as such stuff will sometimes soften paint that you don`t want to mess with. Eh, I`d get the Langka as I prefer using that to remove old touchups.

You might oughta mask off the area surrounding the chip with quality masking tape. Better safe than sorry.

For the surface rust in the chip, I`d grind it (yes, very VERY carefully) with a small diamond burr/etc. on a Dremel, works like a charm...just watch that you don`t have an !oops! There are also "Filament Pens" that can be used to abrade away the rust, but I find them mediocre at best and actually more likely to damage surrounding paintwork than the Dremel.

Finish prepping the bare metal with a dab of Rust Remover/metal etch (I like Rust Bullet`s Metal Blast the best), avoiding surrounding paintwork. Yeah, I realize many would skip that step.

I never had good results from "rust-killing primers" nor would I use a Rust Convertor for this (would have at one time but the product that worked well for this specific thing isn`t around any more).

I`d prime with something that kills/seals rust. Do NOT use POR15, but rather choose from Rust Bullet, Eastwood`s Rust Encapsulator, or KBS Rust Seal. All of those (possible exception Rust Encapsulator) will need at least two light coats and should be topcoated with your touchup paint before they fully cure.

If you use the DrColorChips stuff, note that I get *MUCH* better results using it like conventional touchup paint instead of using the recommended "smear it all over and then.." approach. I apply with either small artists` brushes (usually in a size from 0 to 000) or one of the little disposable touchup brushes available from various sources (check Griot`s Garage for an easy find).

The touchup will be much more fragile than the surrounding paint, so don`t polish/etc. it aggressively.

Yeah, I know plenty of people wouldn`t bother with all the above, but it`s worked for me and I`ve never had to redo such stuff due to rust coming back or touchup paint not adhering.
 
Wow! Now that`s some darn good advice! I appreciate you typing all that up.

I take it most of those products are available online?


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GlennJ- Heh heh...I do tend to go on and on, or should I say "sometimes I provide an in-depth response" ;)

Yeah, all that stuff should be available online.

One thing that didn`t get discussed is wetsanding to level the touchup. Short version: just don`t do that. Use the DrColorChips solvent and/or Langka to do any leveling.

Just FWIW, I dunno whether I`d really go with the DrColorChips or not. I`ve used touchup paint from them and from the other usual recommendations (Paintscratch dot com, automotive touchup dot com, dealership stuff, etc. etc.) and the color-match is always a crapshoot.

Sometimes I like the idea of a single-stage touchup (the DrColorChips and also most dealership stuff but not Audi), other times I want separate basecoat and clearcoat. That`s one decision I guess I`ll just leave up to the person doing the work.
 
Accumulator said:
Glenn J- Welcome to Autopia!

I`d do this work under magnification, but that`s just me.

FWIW, I find that Rubbing Alcohol is pretty marginal at best when it comes to cleaning such stuff for paint prep. I`d use a solvent actually made for this from an Autobody/paint supply store instead (actually, I`m currently liking Pre from Eastwood.com).

Old touchup paint is easily removed with Langka`s Blob Eliminator solvent, or lacquer thinner, but be careful (especially with the latter) as such stuff will sometimes soften paint that you don`t want to mess with. Eh, I`d get the Langka as I prefer using that to remove old touchups.

You might oughta mask off the area surrounding the chip with quality masking tape. Better safe than sorry.

For the surface rust in the chip, I`d grind it (yes, very VERY carefully) with a small diamond burr/etc. on a Dremel, works like a charm...just watch that you don`t have an !oops! There are also "Filament Pens" that can be used to abrade away the rust, but I find them mediocre at best and actually more likely to damage surrounding paintwork than the Dremel.

Finish prepping the bare metal with a dab of Rust Remover/metal etch (I like Rust Bullet`s Metal Blast the best), avoiding surrounding paintwork. Yeah, I realize many would skip that step.

I never had good results from "rust-killing primers" nor would I use a Rust Convertor for this (would have at one time but the product that worked well for this specific thing isn`t around any more).

I`d prime with something that kills/seals rust. Do NOT use POR15, but rather choose from Rust Bullet, Eastwood`s Rust Encapsulator, or KBS Rust Seal. All of those (possible exception Rust Encapsulator) will need at least two light coats and should be topcoated with your touchup paint before they fully cure.

If you use the DrColorChips stuff, note that I get *MUCH* better results using it like conventional touchup paint instead of using the recommended "smear it all over and then.." approach. I apply with either small artists` brushes (usually in a size from 0 to 000) or one of the little disposable touchup brushes available from various sources (check Griot`s Garage for an easy find).

The touchup will be much more fragile than the surrounding paint, so don`t polish/etc. it aggressively.

Yeah, I know plenty of people wouldn`t bother with all the above, but it`s worked for me and I`ve never had to redo such stuff due to rust coming back or touchup paint not adhering.
Click to expand...

While on the subject of rust elimination this product I have seen many times on automotive programs on TV, shows good promise - Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover.
 
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