First Time with PC, having some problems

F

firefli

New member
Well, I'm trying to learn how to use the pc on an oxidized red nissan p/u. The oxidation was pretty heavy and I chose to use SSR 2.5 with a yellow Edge 2000 DA pad. It removed a lot of the haze from the oxidation and looked much better than the untouched portion, but it still did not reflect well. Plus, there were still lots of cob webs. I made about 3 passes with SSR 2.5 and one with SSR 1 but I still was not impressed. I'm working the polish until it's almost dry and doing an area about 2' by 2'. Do I just need to make more passes or do you think I'm not handling my pc correctly? Maybe I need to work the product in even more? I'd appreciate any advice. I'm pretty excited about this new tool but I'm feeling a little let down now.

Thanks in advance.
 
Are you using SSR1 with a cutting pad also? If so, you need to step down to a polishing pad for SSR1 (and possibly even SSR2.5 too). Also, were you using the same pad for both SSR2.5 and 1? You shouldn't mix products on the same pad, as the heavier cut polish may negate the effectiveness of the finer polish.
 
yes can you give a more detailed description of how you used it...speeds etc..did you change pads after the second pass with SSR2.5 to a polishing pad ..and SSR1 must be used with a polishing pad.
 
I did use the cutting pad for both but I did not mix products. I used separate pads. They are the double sided Edge pads. I thought that a cutting pad would not be appropriate for the SSR 1. I just didn't like what I saw after the 2.5 and thought I might see some improvement with the ssr 1 so I just flipped the pad over. I'll try a polishing pad for the ssr 1.
 
Poorboy said:
yes can you give a more detailed description of how you used it...speeds etc..did you change pads after the second pass with SSR2.5 to a polishing pad ..and SSR1 must be used with a polishing pad.
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I used it at 4.5 and the second pass was the same speed with the same pad. I think that I moved the pc slowly back and forth overlapping the last pass by 50%.
 
Since you've gone over it with SSR2.5 and a cutting pad already, go over it with SSR2.5 and a polishing pad next, wipe off, then SSR1 with a polishing pad and wipe. That should help bring up more clarity faster than working SSR1 with a polishing pad right after using a cutting pad.
 
You have to remember that with heavily oxidized or scratched finishes an orbital may not be able to remove these defects completely. It is important to understand the limitations of the technique you are using, so that you do not become frustrated with the results. I am sure it looks 100% better than before.
 
:yeah and bump up the speed to 5-5.5 for the SSR2.5 ....and work it until it practically disappears and you see a bright reflective shine coming through..it sounds like you may not have worked it far enough.
 
I'm with Steve on this one... Try even using a little more product and working it a bit longer.

A pc can remove swirls, oxidiation and scratches, it just takes practice, patients and finding the combo of product and pad that works best for you.

I've had great results with PB lines on oxidized cars.

Here is some shots of oxidized red that I used PP, DACP for some heavier swirls (SSR2.5 wasn't available at the time) SSR1, PwC and EX. PP really cut through the oxidization, I used it both by hand and PC with equal results (PC just being easier and faster).

Here is a shot after using PP by hand on the hood:
miata_hood.jpg


Here is the side before and after:

73.jpg


miata_01.jpg



Good luck :hippi
 
blkyukon said:
I'm with Steve on this one... Try even using a little more product and working it a bit longer.

A pc can remove swirls, oxidiation and scratches, it just takes practice, patients and finding the combo of product and pad that works best for you.

I've had great results with PB lines on oxidized cars.

Here is some shots of oxidized red that I used PP, DACP for some heavier swirls (SSR2.5 wasn't available at the time) SSR1, PwC and EX. PP really cut through the oxidization, I used it both by hand and PC with equal results (PC just being easier and faster). Good luck :hippi
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Your pics looked awsome. Thanks all, for your responses. This car has been neglected and has had no wax on it in years. I washed and clayed already. Should I still polish before the SSR2.5?
 
Polishing (SSR1) should come as the last step before you apply your sealant/wax. Have you gone over it with SSR2.5 with the polishing pad yet? That will help "refine" the finish from the SSR2.5/1 w/cutting pad condition. You'll need to work the paint in stages, especially if it's in as rough of shape as you say. Don't expext it to gleam with 1 try. Also, as has been stated previously, Step down after each aplication. It's like sanding furniture. You might start out with 100 or 300 grit paper to get the major blemishes fixed, but you wouldn't leave it there. You'd step down to finer and finer grits until you got the wood smooth. Same thing polishing paint. You've gone aggressive (SSR2.5/cutting pad) now you need to start finessing the finish. As you get progressively finer/milder polishing, you'll notice deeper reflections, better clarity. Keep at it. You may want to work on 1 section only until you find the "right combo" then do the rest of the vehicle. That way you can guage your progress better.
 
Big Leegr said:
You may want to work on 1 section only until you find the "right combo" then do the rest of the vehicle. That way you can guage your progress better.
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:yeah IMO, that's the best advice anyone can give you. :bigups

Work the panel from polish to wax/sealant, checking after each stage, and see if that achieves the results you are looking for. If not change the speed, application, pads, products, etc. until you are happy with the finish.

Good luck!
 
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