First time Porter Cable user

Jngrbrdman

Jngrbrdman

New member
Did someone put more smilies in the list? The visible smilies have shrunk. However, the "Get More" link doesn't work. www.mysmilies.com is a great resource for smilies though. Just in case you were out looking for some. :)
 
What do you mean it shrunk? I see all of the smiles.



Thanks for the link to the smiles. I need to update what we have. They are getting old.



db
 
That was what I saw, Prinz. Then it had a link that said something like "click here to see more" but it just pulled up an error screen. Its fixed now so I guess it doesn't matter. :)
 
I bought the Porter Cable with the Meguiar's M105 and M205 compounds. I started with the less aggressive and that didn't do the trick so I went ahead with the more aggressive.
I wasn't really sure the proper procedure for using the buffer. I ended up just dripping the compound stuff on the flat parts of the car and then applying it with a waxing pad to the vertical parts. I then used the buffer on speed 5 to spread the compound. Once it dried to a haze I used terry cloths to wipe it all off and buff it as clean as best as possible.
Is that how everyone takes the compound off, by hand? I also have a cheaper 10" buffer I bought from Sears that I used to use to take off the wax when I would wax my car. Can I just use that to take off the Meguiar's compound? I just did the M105 today and tomorrow I'm gonna use the M205 tomorrow.
I also have Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Protection and the Gloss Enhancing Polish I'm gonna do tomorrow. I'll use the Porter Cable with the Lake Country Red pad to apply the wax and then can I use my other buffer to remove it with a terry cloth pad?
Or should I apply the wax with the PorterCable and remove it by hand with the terry cloths I have?
 
I am sure others will chime in with great methods but for a newbie, I would seriously suggest you google some videos on youtube to watch the proper way to prime a pad, amounts to use, number of passes, what a pass actually means and the proper method to buff then remove. There are also a ton of articles to read up on in the Detailing Center
 
yooformula said:
I am sure others will chime in with great methods but for a newbie, I would seriously suggest you google some videos on youtube to watch the proper way to prime a pad, amounts to use, number of passes, what a pass actually means and the proper method to buff then remove. There are also a ton of articles to read up on in the Detailing Center
Click to expand...


Ya what he said :iagree:

Plus:

There are others on the forum who do a much better job than myself explaining PC technique but let me chime in with a few observations and/or tips. First, in reading your post I get the impression you may be using too much product when polishing. Try priming the pad by working product into the pad. You want to cover the entire surface of the pad to moisten it with product. Then use only enough to refresh the pad with polish for each successive area. Another key is not working too big of an area, try to stick to 2 x 2. Start polishing with downward pressure for a few passes and ease up with less pressure for a final few passes. You really want to leave as little product behind as possible and letting it dry to a haze is not necessary with polish. If it is hard to remove you can use a spritz of a QD or IPA to help. Using a buffer should not be necessary. Also, clean the pad often. Do now let product cake on the pad. If it does you are using too much or not cleaning often enough. Use a new pad as necessary. I hope this helps.
 
biolink said:
There are others on the forum who do a much better job than myself explaining PC technique but let me chime in with a few observations and/or tips. First, in reading your post I get the impression you may be using too much product when polishing. Try priming the pad by working product into the pad. You want to cover the entire surface of the pad to moisten it with product. Then use only enough to refresh the pad with polish for each successive area. Another key is not working too big of an area, try to stick to 2 x 2. Start polishing with downward pressure for a few passes and ease up with less pressure for a final few passes. You really want to leave as little product behind as possible and letting it dry to a haze is not necessary with polish. If it is hard to remove you can use a spritz of a QD or IPA to help. Using a buffer should not be necessary. Also, clean the pad often. Do now let product cake on the pad. If it does you are using too much or not cleaning often enough. Use a new pad as necessary. I hope this helps.
Click to expand...
That definitely helps. I was reading the instructions on the ProperAutoCare site.
For any newbs like me this video is awesome:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxwlWijdIxM&playnext=1&list=PL61AA6557C6E24D67
 
1. Choose the correct pad for the product used (Yellow or orange LC pad for #105; I use mostly the orange. White for the #205).
2.Apply product thin, thin, thin.
3. Travel the DA slow, slow. slow, and keep the pad rotating.

Jim
 
I do not really understand your polishing method. but for M105/M205 with a DA, you should use a polishing pad (like LC orange or LC white). You work M105 for 4 passes at speed 5 or so and stop while it is still damp. You be sure it is spread over the pad and start at speed 5 ..no spreading pass. Work a 18x18 section with 6-in or 5-in pads.

Unlike non-SMAT polishes the only downside is you could have been able to get more correction but at least there is no worrying about breakdown. If you overwork it it will dry and then mar.

For M205, you work it like 6 passes with the 2 last at less pressure. Again, I would should not work it until it is dry. You can use a LC white (polishing pad) or LC black (finishing pad).

The most common mistakes are moving the polisher too quickly, using too much product per section (need only enough to barely cover the area), and not using enough pressure although M105/M205 are more less sensitive to me than diminishing polishes.
 
hey vitalz i sent you a pm with a link to 105 and 205 use that helped me

its a good idea to have plenty of micriofiber towels to start with switch towels about every panel or two for easier removal and clean pad after every panel. you will use more polish beginning each panel and less as pas is saturated during each panel polishing have a nylon bristle brush handy to clean pad between panels --good luck take your time and make sure not to go bigger than 2x2 area of polishing start sdmaller at first and you will see quick results--:thumbup:
 
when washing mf towels......

make sure u dont use hot water or heat --you will ruin or shorten the life of the soft fibers very fast--umm....dont ask me how i know :redface: also wash your mf towels seperate from all others and use regular wash soap with citrus cleaner or apc added for cleaning--i use half a typical soap cap and same amount or more of citrus cleaner if towels are really dirty. it is already diluted about 8-1 for spot cleaning. wash warm dry low (delicate) i use the moisture sensor to make sure not to get towels too warm even on low setting :)
 
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