Factory finish spiderwebbing

Very nice work! I want to come back as a painter in my next life. It has to be very satisfying to get your paint just the way you want it. Thanks for posting all the pictures. I appreciate work well done.
 
I get 40% off Sherwin Williams paint because of a brother-in-law who works there so that is what I`m using. I have a 60 gallon air compressor so it`s all air. Honestly with the hvlp turbine you probably won`t get the best finish out of it. It tends to heat the paint up and doesn`t atomize as well as an air powered setup. You will end up with more orange peel texture which can be fixed with color sanding and buffing. I know having compressors and dryers costs a lot more and you actually use more paint but it does yield a better finish.
I have a Fuji Q3 system that I picked up for a good price that I plan on using. From what I can tell, it has very fine atomization and with 6.5 psi at the tip, should have enough to spray automotive paint well. I was considering the unit from TP Tools as I saw many glowing remarks about it from restorers and painters (not as many FT painters used a turbine though because their shop already had a great air compressor system). The Fuji should be as good as the TP Tools one - maybe better - since the TP one only puts out around 4-5psi at the tip. I plan on extending the hose on the Fuji to help reduce the temp of incoming air to closer to a conventional setup so that it will be easier to get the paint ratios correct. We will see though! I first will be using it to stain & seal a wooden fence that I just finished putting up.

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Well this was fun. After 8 years of bug etching, rock chips, parking curbs, 1` metal fence pole my wife hit and 1 unlucky opossum I had my work cut out for me. The fence pole dug a gouge out of it and the opossum broke it on the lower end. I filled the gouge with evercoat polyflex and repaired the break with some 2 part plastic repair and smoothed it out with polyflex. Since it had so many chips and etchings I sanded the whole thing down with some 320 almost all the way through, applied 3 coats of high build, blocked with 220-320-600 and painted. Turned out good though







 
I have a Fuji Q3 system that I picked up for a good price that I plan on using. From what I can tell, it has very fine atomization and with 6.5 psi at the tip, should have enough to spray automotive paint well. I was considering the unit from TP Tools as I saw many glowing remarks about it from restorers and painters (not as many FT painters used a turbine though because their shop already had a great air compressor system). The Fuji should be as good as the TP Tools one - maybe better - since the TP one only puts out around 4-5psi at the tip. I plan on extending the hose on the Fuji to help reduce the temp of incoming air to closer to a conventional setup so that it will be easier to get the paint ratios correct. We will see though! I first will be using it to stain & seal a wooden fence that I just finished putting up.

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Cool! Let me know how it works out! I use more than just a spray gun so I have the need for a compressor.
 
It`s done for the most part. I`m probably going to pull the billet and paint the area of the bumper behind the grille black so it doesn`t stand out so much. That, tint the windows and some wheels later on down the road.








 
Paint looks great!

The tinted headlights aren`t my thing (at least not that dark on a white car).

Will you be keeping it unbadged?

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Paint looks great!

The tinted headlights aren`t my thing (at least not that dark on a white car).

Will you be keeping it unbadged?

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Yeah I actually ordered the headlights because I had an issue with the factory ones. I don`t know that I will end up keeping them on there though. They are really dark compared to the back and at night there isn`t much light. I will probably strip mine completely down and try to smoke them the same as the back. I took the badges off when I bought the car so they won`t be going back on.
 
Yeah I actually ordered the headlights because I had an issue with the factory ones. I don`t know that I will end up keeping them on there though. They are really dark compared to the back and at night there isn`t much light. I will probably strip mine completely down and try to smoke them the same as the back. I took the badges off when I bought the car so they won`t be going back on.
I had thought / assumed the light output would be diminished but I thought some might compensate with brighter bulbs or super bright projectors... I prefer to keep things closer to factory myself, but I think it would look better with them matching the back better (or even stock ).

What problems did you have with your original headlights?

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I had thought / assumed the light output would be diminished but I thought some might compensate with brighter bulbs or super bright projectors... I prefer to keep things closer to factory myself, but I think it would look better with them matching the back better (or even stock ).

What problems did you have with your original headlights?

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The plastic had a reaction with the tinted base I used. I will probably get out tomorrow and strip the coating, clear the lens, sand it down and tint over some fresh clear. That way there is a barrier between the plastic and color coat. If you intend on painting anything go ahead and prepare yourself for things like that lol
 
xtremejustomz- Heh heh, I think you already know that I`m impressed as all get-out by your skills, and that I`m a genuine hater when it comes to tinted lights (of any kind) so I`ll skip that stuff and just say that I myself think the current silver wheels look good on that. IMO if you black `em out it`d look wrong, but OTOH I bet somebody half my age would simply love it.

For some reason that blacked-out grille needs something IMO..again, that`s probably just my old(er) guy sensibilities talkin` but it`s a bit of a black hole to me, like it needs some kind of logo/etc.

Again, 40 years ago I might`ve done the exact same thing...
 
xtremejustomz- Heh heh, I think you already know that I`m impressed as all get-out by your skills, and that I`m a genuine hater when it comes to tinted lights (of any kind) so I`ll skip that stuff and just say that I myself think the current silver wheels look good on that. IMO if you black `em out it`d look wrong, but OTOH I bet somebody half my age would simply love it.

For some reason that blacked-out grille needs something IMO..again, that`s probably just my old(er) guy sensibilities talkin` but it`s a bit of a black hole to me, like it needs some kind of logo/etc.

Again, 40 years ago I might`ve done the exact same thing...

Ha! That`s jealousy talking right there! The problem is that those are silver hub caps. I`ve been looking for a set of factory alloy wheels. Found some aftermarket ones on ebay that look the same as the factory style which I actually like.
 
Ha! That`s jealousy talking right there! The problem is that those are silver hub caps. I`ve been looking for a set of factory alloy wheels. Found some aftermarket ones on ebay that look the same as the factory style which I actually like.
Heh heh, I`m so [darn] out-of-touch that I don`t even know what part of my post might`ve indicated jealousy!

What color are the alloys you`re considering? Black, by any chance?!?

Heh heh#2, it`d be one *BORING* world if everybody agreed with my automotive aesthetics!
 
Stylish?? They are the ones that come on the car from the factory lol
Well IMO (and heh heh we all know what *my* opinion`s worth, huh? :o ) it`s not like OE wheels can`t be stylish or even *too* stylish for a guy like me. On my Jag, Tahoe, and our current Audis the OE wheels are absolutely perfect IMO, couldn`t possibly look better if I spent a fortune on different ones.

Not like I always feel that way, I loved aftermarket wheels on a few vehicles (and my wife was all about BBS wheels on her previous Audi) so to me it just depends.
 
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