Factory finish spiderwebbing

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xtremekustomz

New member
I've got a 2008 Nissan Altima pearl white and noticed this on the top of the car near the windshield, running along the sides of the top, around the rear window and the area above the top of the doors. I looked in my manual and it says there is an unlimited mileage 5 year warranty but it says only for corrosion. Further it lists this:



The items listed below are not covered under corrosion

coverage (perforation from corrosion).



"Corrosion other than perforation, such as cosmetic or surface corrosion due to defects in materials or workmanship. This is covered under the Basic

Coverage of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty."



I can do the repaint myself if it comes down to it but I'm gonna be really annoyed if they don't do something about this. Probably going to be trading it if they don't correct the problem and writing into the BBB. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet so we will see. This is clearcoat failure which is a paint defect and it will end up flaking off.





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That is not "spider webbing", that is "cracking" of the paint surface.

This concern is indicative of poor refinishing, with the incorrect materials and process.

The corrosion warranty is exactly as it states, for perforation, which comes from the inside to the outside of the panels.

Your concern is a paint only concern.

At the age of the vehicle, and read your warranty book, it is no longer covered by the paint warranty, which if I recall is for 12 months or 12,000 miles from purchase.

Sorry,

Grumpy
 
I bought the car new in 2008 and it hasn't had any paint work done on it. Don't know if that is what you were getting at when you said poor refinish work.
 
Port of Entry or dealership refinishing, which may have had damage or defects noticed after it arrived at the either ocean port or if a Tenn. build, at the in-land port facility/rail head.

It is possible that the vehicle was subjected to some fluids leaking out of a vehicle transported above it or some hail or wind damage while in the storage lot awaiting transport to the dealership. Many oppotunities for transit damage to occur.

Most likely, P.O.E./railhead, but never the less, you have had the car too long to expect the dealership to do anything.

Suggest you go around the dealership to the Nissan Regional office and talk with one of their field engineers regarding the concern.

Be ready to have "documentation" that you have, from date of purchase at the ready if they will talk with you.

Such, "When did you first notice this issue?", "Why didn't you notifiy us when you first noticed the concern", "Have you contacted the selling dealership and what did they tell you?", this is at least a $1,000 fix at the least, to do it right and none of them want to pay for it after this amount of time.

The dealership can do nothing without the corporate OK, and it's hard to get after this many years.

I realize that this is not what you wish to hear, and for that I am sorry, just keep in mind that for a few decades I worked with 9 of the largest vehicle manufacturers around the world, their assembly plants, port facilities, their rail heads, their dealerships when paint and trim issues were recognized. I know the system. (including Nissan/Infiniti)

Grumpy
 
My wife's Town & Country hood is doing the same thing. I've sanded and buffed it just to put a temporary band aid on it, but it comes right back. Opti-Coat/Guard didn't even have a positive effect on it.



Here's a 50/50 shot of what is happening and how well I can make it look for only a short period of time.








Ron - What level of prep will I have to do to insure that the damaged paint is removed in order for this to be a permanant fix? The base doesn't have to be removed does it?
 
-David



Not sure about yours but on mine I know its going to have to be taken down to the besecoat and or metal which is going to require new basecoat. I'm going to weigh my options if they decide not to fix it. I paint on the side so it really isn't a big expense for me but more of an annoyance. I've been looking for a reason to get another vehicle anyway lol (I did just pay that $470 for title and tag a few months ago though...hate to just throw that away...ouch)
 
David, ever take an ETG reading of the hood vs the top or top of the doors below the windows/

If you did, was their a difference in the readings.

And don't give me micron readings, the factories normally use mil readings and I am dumb, that how I learned readings, so there!

PPSSSTTT! (or however Bill The Cat did it)

Grumpy
 
I always used my hood as the test bed for new polishing compounds. I know the paint has been shaved way down too much and being in the bright S. FL sun didn't help either. Plus, a bunch of wetsanding as well. I'm afraid that just scuffing it down and adding more clear isn't going to be the long term correct fix. Plus, I'm sure they'll break into the base pretty quick too. I just don't want to get into the base to avoid blending into the fenders. (the shop that does my freebies is terrible at color matching).
 
Service manager says it is out of warranty and there were no repairs done to the vehicle. I'm going to get written verification of that and contact Nissan directly. Then on to the BBB.
 
xtremekustomz said:
Service manager says it is out of warranty and there were no repairs done to the vehicle. I'm going to get written verification of that and contact Nissan directly. Then on to the BBB.
Click to expand...

Time to find a detailer or such with an electronic paint thickness gauge, have them take reading from affected areas and non-affected areas and be willing to back up their finding of the thickness readings.

Have it in writting, the areas that show more than others, etc.

Present the readings to the Service Manager, do "not" give him an original of the document.

Inform him you are taking this up to the District Level, the Field Service Rep.

Also, ask a body shop once you have the complete readings of the finish what would be the cost, "if such a refinish repair" was done.

Don't know what state you live in, however, some states have a law that requires the purchaser of a new vehicle to be informed at time of purchase of any repairs done before purchasing, by the manufacturer or the "legal " agents.

Years ago, BMW got their butt in a sling in Georgia for doing paint repairs above the limit speced and ended up paying the customers for legal fee's and had to buy the vehicle back.

Don't know about your state, etc.

Just a shot in the dark on that part of it.

However, if you can show the Nissan rep the "facts" and "issue" and stand your ground without being threatening, they may listen.

Using the BBB is like going into the wind when urinating when it comes to concerns such as this.

However, if you are refused by Nissan, be sure pursue the BBB for resolution.

They will be so happy when you present the file I hope you are keeping as you go through the steps with the dealership, Nissan, etc.

This not an easy process, when I was working, and before Nissan/Infiniti moved the HQ to Tenn, was often in their HG in So.Cal, and they had a whole floor of mostly "legal" staff, so do it right, do it with documentation.

Grumpy
 
Ok. So I went by the Nissan dealership. I spoke to the Service Consultation guy and we looked up the records for the car an no repairs seem to have been made. He said it isn't under warranty and there is nothing they can do. I explained that I wanted to get in contact with the field service rep. The only way to do that is to talk to the Service manager. He looked at the car and got my info and told me to go get a quote from a body shop and he would contact the Field Service Rep and get back to me. I did stop by the Ford dealership next door and there was an older gentlemen (I guess he writes up estimates) and he said he sees it on alot of cars. He called it creaching? I've never heard that term before. I ended up going by the shop that they referred me to and got a quote. We found that it needed the top, the trunk, and the upper parts above the doors which included both quarter panels. The estimate was for $1556 which seemed rather cheap to me considering what all had to be done. All the Ford place said is that it would be "expensive." They use Spies paint and clear so it isn't cheap paint. I went by the supply store and got prices for paint myself just in case I'm the one having to fix it. A pint of the white is $66.34 ($123.20 qt) and the pearl is $90.92 a pint ($174.56 qt). I figure if I end up having to do it myself I'm going to go ahead and paint my front bumper while I'm at it. Probably just end up using Dupont clear because they said their Spies was for baking.
 
Sorry that you "did not" read carefully what I took the time to type out and post.

I think I stated to find the phone number/email contact to the "Regional Offices', I thought I was very clear regarding to not go further with the "dealership" people.

This is a legal world, and one has to go through that "legal" world in order to resolve any issue.

The "dealership" is the "in-between" people, as I thought I was clear on in my post response to you.

Re-read, "exactly" what I presented for the path you need to take to find resolution to your concern.

Please do that, or just pay the money and walk away.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Sorry that you "did not" read carefully what I took the time to type out and post.

I think I stated to find the phone number/email contact to the "Regional Offices', I thought I was very clear regarding to not go further with the "dealership" people.

This is a legal world, and one has to go through that "legal" world in order to resolve any issue.

The "dealership" is the "in-between" people, as I thought I was clear on in my post response to you.

Re-read, "exactly" what I presented for the path you need to take to find resolution to your concern.

Please do that, or just pay the money and walk away.

Grumpy
Click to expand...



Well you've said 2 different things. A few posts back you said contact the Regional Offices which I have tried and do not get an answer at the number I have. Maybe they are closed by the time I get home from work. You also said to get written documentation from the dealer of any repairs that were made which was the other reason why I was at the dealership. There were no repairs on record for my car. The last post was to get readings from a detailer which would back up their findings. I have called the local guys here and none have a paint thickness gauge. I can order one for myself but turning in something that I took on my own car will be useless. After that you said to take the findings to the Service manager which is at the dealership and inform him I am taking it to the field service manager which I did. He would not give me her phone number and neither would Nissan directly. So technically I have done everything you have said to do. I have started a claim with Nissan and I will see where it goes. Either way I appreciate your help in the matter although I did find your last post a little patronizing. This is my final post on this matter. Thanks again.
 
And here we are 4 years later and I finally get around to doing something :)

My original pictures got deleted but in the past 4 years this is how the top progressed. It will probably take me another week or two to completely finish the rest but I got some of it painted this afternoon. I`m doing it solid white instead of pearl.















































 
That`s rather impressive! Did you use a chemical to strip the paint from the roof or just sand it to the metal?

Sent from my XT1031
 
Arrow said:
That`s rather impressive! Did you use a chemical to strip the paint from the roof or just sand it to the metal?

Sent from my XT1031
Click to expand...

I sanded it. I use an 80 grit 8" sanding disc on my dewalt buffer at the lowest speed followed by 80 grit on my DA. Tight spots I use Roloc discs on an angle grinder.
 
Nice job. Reminds me of the roadrunner resto, everything that was removeable was removed and hung from the rafters where it was painted then reassembled,

Dave
 
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