FACT or FICTION: Do clearcoats Oxidize?

S

supercat

New member
Hi Fellas,



Ive been floating around here and there in the forums for quite sometime now and i love this place. :buffing: :woot: Tons of intelligent people helping out to make cars look fabulous. :bigups





I've done my homework and know how the detailing process works for the most part.



However, as a noob I've come across many a thread talking about AIO paint cleaner/oxidation remover.



In respect to that, I'd like to know the Dog-gone truth If Clearcoats Oxidize or only Single stage paints.



Pros. please shed some light on this inquiry. Thank you. :wavey
 
I have read and think that CC do not oxidize. From my understanding it is the pigment mixed in paint that oxidizes (is that really a word?). So technically CC cant oxidize because it lacks pigment. That is what I read, how true it is I have no idea. I dont have scientific data to back it up or dispute it.
 
from my limited experience, clear can not oxidize. like Scottabir said it is the pigment that is the problem. clear coat is "usually" a urethane based clear. I mixed up an ounce of DuPont clear and let it dry in the nylon mixing cup on purpose. it has been sitting on my desk for 5 years and its still shiny clean on the sides... the top is dusty! This likely doesnt help at all... just my $.02
 
This would be correct, cc's do not oxidize in the strictest sense of the word. Many enthusiasts, and pros also, use the word oxidize in a more general sense to mean "contaminates" on the surface of your car. Joe and Scott describe it well.



Anthony
 
From a chemical standpoint, pigment has nothing to do with oxidation. Oxidation is the combination of a substance with oxygen. Whether clearcoats get chalky like SS is another question, and I think the answer to that is probably yes. Do they do it less easily than SS because the lack of pigment means they absorb less heat through sunlight (heat being a major factor in oxidation of any substance), the answer to that is probably yes, also.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
From a chemical standpoint, pigment has nothing to do with oxidation. Oxidation is the combination of a substance with oxygen. Whether clearcoats get chalky like SS is another question, and I think the answer to that is probably yes. Do they do it less easily than SS because the lack of pigment means they absorb less heat through sunlight (heat being a major factor in oxidation of any substance), the answer to that is probably yes, also.
Click to expand...



That's very interesting to learn!
 
Well, I'm no chemist, just using some definitions...it may be that there is some accuracy to the pigment statement, if it is metallic pigments in the SS paint that are oxidizing. We're all familiar with metallic oxides, rust on iron/steel, green patina on copper, tarnish on silver, etc.
 
Okay,



That makes sense guys (I'm glad we have Chemists on here) :clap: but I have one more question.



After polsihing I noticed my friend's navy blue paint paint was still cloudy/whitish hazyness,



he has a a CC, so does that eliminate the possibility of Oxidation due to it being a CC? Could it be CC failure? :nixweiss
 
Oxidation simply means that Oxygen is added to a molecule with an electron being displaced.



Single Stages Paints were extremely prone to this as the metals in the paint were in direct contact with the atmosphere.



2 and 3 stage (clear coats) are much less prone to this but not immune in my opinion. A clear cloat is extremely thin and in my opinion, not a solid blanket but to some extent breathable. Therefore, Oxygen could interact with substances in the paint layer and trigger the oxidation reaction. It's just that the amount of oxidation taking place is minimal in comparison to SS paints.



In CC paints, bonded containmenats and surface scratches etc are the main defects and depending on how people wash their vehicle etc, the level of containmenats is so high it gives the appearance of oxidation.



Paco
 
Supercat,



What polish did you use and how did you apply it? Sounds as though you need to either work the product longer or follow-up with a more mild polish.



Paco
 
Paco,



I used SSR2.5 followed by Mothers Powerpolish on the paint.Both via Rotary at around 1500 RPMs. Was MPP too harsh still.



What level of Abrasiveness is MPP in comparison to the SSR line? :nixweiss
 
The abrasiveness of MPP depands on the pad you use. Try a polishing pad with MPP and if still doesn't work than move on to a finishing pad.
 
Supercat, as Gen2, said MPP is a one of a new generation of all-purpose polishes...they are as aggressive as the pad you use, therefore, can't compare with SSR or any previous polishes. What sort of pad did you use?



As far as the original question of c/c oxidation, I understand and agree that, generally, pigments oxidise. But I've seen a red paint that looked like total oxidation, and I assumed it was a s/s paint. When I tried to polish it, no pigment appeared on the pad! It was clear coated! And it was heavily oxidised! I polished it further until the oxidation was removed and could see the real colour underneath. The clearcoat had not failed...it looked fine...just the surface was dead and oxidised.



Since then, I believe that a clearcoat can oxidise in extreme circumstances, but in a different way to s/s paint.
 
Hey Cat,



Even though it's mentioned above, the pad choice is just as important as the product you use.



I haven't personally used the product you are applying so I can't tell what the issue.



Does it say anywhere on the package what sanding marks it takes out? If it says 1000g or 1200 grit, that's some pretty potent stuff. It's in the 1700 - 2500 range, then just make sure you work it long enough. You MAY need to follow up with a very mild polish to get rid of the haze and return the high gloss using a finishing pad.



Paco
 
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