Experienced Opinions Wanted

[PerfectCreature]

I am not new to taking car of my car. I love to detail my car, and do it habitually. I even do other peoples cars too, like my Fiance's and brothers, and parents too. I just don't go all out.

It is a fun hobby, and like all hobby's you want to be the best at it and have the best stuff for that hobby.

I had been planning on detailing my Pure Red Eclipse this summer, but an accident prevented that, with fresh paint and what not-It has been about 3 weeks in 20-50F weather, so I think I have 2-4 more weeks left before I can touch the paint with any kind of wax.



The body shop ended up putting swirl marks into my car and the new paint, as well as a terrible job in some spots (My drivers side mirror bubbles up, and left a "sticthing" pattern". Being that they used a buffer and some nice glaze, I did not notice until I did not the 2 week car wash with spray soap and water. (I took it to a local self service, as I do not have a hose)

It is terrifying what I saw.

This is a photo of the hood, it is not the best,but should show you the gist of it.

It is like this through the entire car, with the roof being the worst. They are actually scratches on the roof, fairly deep ones at that, from where I assume the tools rested for the repair.



In any case, I have decided that I will buy a PC and try to take them out myself, in case they do a sub-par job, or simply fill them with glaze like they did before, when they "fix" their mistake.

This was detailed last summer by hand, and came out nicely, but I would like to have it come out looking better if possible. (I used the "Ultimate Show" kit from Meguire's)

As you can see in that image, I attempted to use Meguier's Ultimate Compound by hand, with little luck. The swirls are there, but lighter. Nothing as serious as they are now, but still....



My goal is to remove all the swirls, and have it sealed and protected for a LONG time. I was thinking of using the yellow Meguire's pad with the UC on speed 5 to get rid of the swirls. I was thinking 2-3 pads should be enough, or should I have more?



After reading the forums for the last few weeks, I have become increasingly confused in my product choices for my color car. I had originally intended to simply Clay (Using Meguire's Clay Bar) then UC, and then sealant and wax, but now I am not sure if I would need to toss a polish in there.

I am looking for a surface that will be protected. At first I was considering the JetSeal109 and 50/50 from Chemical Guys (I noticed the comparisons of JetSeal alone vs Collinite 845) but am now considering the Opti-Coat 2.0 and then after curing, topping with a wax to give that nice sheen.



The paint has fantastic sheen, and I have taken care of it, it is just that the swirl marks and minor blemishes are getting to me.

I do not have much of a budget for this, and was hoping to use some of my own supplies that I already have.

I will purchase what I need to though, if I must.

My microfibers and towels are pretty worn out, so I have not used them since the times I detailed during winter time.

Meguire's Ultimate Compound

Zymol Cleaner Wax

Turtle Wax ICE Wash

Armour All Wheel Protectant

Mothers Back to Black

Simonz Clay Magic

Meguires Clay Bar





I am looking for your opinions. I can take some better photos as the one above of my car was with a phone camera, I do have a Cannon T3 that takes much better photos.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Nth Degree]

Was the whole car painted or just the damaged panel(s)?



First and foremost I would recommend taking it back to the shop that did the work and let them know you are not happy with the job as is. Point out the problem areas (the swirls are manageable, the bubbling, scratches and "stitching pattern" may not be fixable by detailing. If they don't want to fix it go to the insurance company and tell them. If you start doing anything significant to it now they might claim the damage is a result of what you have done and therefore they are not responsible.



Try that first, then check back here. Some photos of the specific problem areas might help us better understand the issues.

 

[PerfectCreature]

Was the whole car painted or just the damaged panel(s)?



First and foremost I would recommend taking it back to the shop that did the work and let them know you are not happy with the job as is. Point out the problem areas (the swirls are manageable, the bubbling, scratches and "stitching pattern" may not be fixable by detailing. If they don't want to fix it go to the insurance company and tell them. If you start doing anything significant to it now they might claim the damage is a result of what you have done and therefore they are not responsible.



Try that first, then check back here. Some photos of the specific problem areas might help us better understand the issues.

This is the mirror that needs repainting.

If you look at where the reflection is, you can see the bubble.

I have not yet threatened the insurance company yet. He is supposed to go over with a buffer and some scratch remover to take care of the areas that need help.

I have not noticed a couple of other spots, which is upsetting me even more. There are plenty of spots like this:

I licked my thumb to clean it the area, and make sure it wasn't a hair. My finger nail catches on this one, and many others.

There are plenty of them on the new paint, swirl marks, scratches all over. I think he may have let me take the car back before the paint had hardened enough.

He told me to come back next week, (the 9th or 10th) and he would take care of the scratches, and my swirl marks. I have only washed it once, and of that one time, it was with spray on soaking soap, and then rinsing off. I have not even dried it, I let it air dry, and look at the awful water spots, so I am not sure how these are all getting there.

The more I look, the more I find, I only told him about the one on my roof, so I hope he will take care of them all.

I honestly do not have the any faith in his shops ability to remove them, based on the issue they caused by washing the car and applying a glaze that continues to wear off, and show more imperfections that were not there.

I suppose, if they cannot do a good job, then I will call the insurance company again.

 

[Dan]

A buffer isn't going to fix a sloppy repair job. Go back and get it repaired correctly. If they leave swirls, no biggie, you can fix those.

 

[Nth Degree]

If the paint is bubbling in one spot and, based upon the other issues, would be concerned about the bonding of the rest of the paint. Scratches that deep should not exist in fresh paint, period. It is not likely anything you did. Unless you picked the car up just a couple hours after being painted it should have been dry enough.



If it were me, I would give the insurance adjuster a heads up now, rather than waiting until this shop fails again. It is possible that this is a rare case for the shop and it simply slipped through. Let the adjuster know that the shop is working with you to resolve the issues but that if they are not able you will want it done properly. One issue you might run into is the "pre-accident" condition.

 

[Scottwax]

You need to get the insurance adjuster out to look at the car ASAP. Don't touch it anymore or you will give the shop a reason to say the problems are all your fault.



And if you are washing the car and letting it air dry, that's where your water spots are likely coming from.

 

[Richard Grasa]

I agree, get the adjuster to look at the car before you bring it back so they can see the problem areas. Make sure they document everything so you have a paper trail to fall back on in case things don't go well again and you need to bring it someplace else to have it properly fixed.

 

[PerfectCreature]

I agree, get the adjuster to look at the car before you bring it back so they can see the problem areas. Make sure they document everything so you have a paper trail to fall back on in case things don't go well again and you need to bring it someplace else to have it properly fixed.

I called the adjuster, he noted all of what I said. Told me it was great that "we were trying to work it out" and told me if I needed help, he would do his best. There is not an adjuster in my area, it is up to local shops to simply squeeze the insurance companies dry with whatever they say.

I will keep bugging him until it gets done.

We will see what happens after the paint correction/swirl removal and re-evauate I think.

 

[Guitarist302008]

My opinion is the car looks like total sh*t... I mean no offense to you by saying that. First off, you can't really detail a car properly by hand. It won't remove marring or any sort of scratching and even if it does you will spend literally weeks doing it. Getting the PC is a good start, but you might want to ask around. I myself use a Flex DA polisher, but it has a lot of power and isn't really always needed when you have some of the new microfiber pads and such that are out now. I'd get the meg's 105 and finish it up with the 205. If the car isn't really bad as far as how deep the scratches are, maybe you could get away with just 205, but the 105 finishes down very nicely too.



Either way, stay on that insurance guy and don't let that place get away with that work, it is beyond terrible.

 

[PerfectCreature]

I have been going into the shop every Monday and Friday to check up on stuff.

I am going to spray wash the car today and capture all of the scratches that were caused by the detailer at the shop. That way I have something to fall back on incase they don't do a good enough job.

As far as the paint, the mirror is the only spot that I see that is like that. I assume because they did not let it dry like they before the base coat.

They said they use a camel hair mitt. So, I dunno much other then that.

I will find out if they will come good on it, on Monday, or Tuesday.



As far as the sealents and wax goes. Any opinions on the JetSeal/5050 combo compared to OptiSeal?

I am really considering OptiSeal, as we have some harsh winters.

I am open to other avenues of waxes and sealants.

 

[PerfectCreature]

Here are photos of the damage done, be it swirls scratches or both. I did not get the sides, as I think this is more then adequate to show the amount of damage. I took them with my DSLR, so I could get the finite details of those atrocious swirls. I have had several comments on how bad my car looks.

So, I take no offense to that statement.

I was told I should wait until summer to get the mirror repainted. It is regularly 40 degrees now. Summer should be about a month or two away.

Should I wait?

Roof

Roof

Hatch Area

Hood

Hood

They even got the tail light.

 

[Nth Degree]

That is absolutely atrocious that a body/paint shop would put out work of that low quality. I would wonder how they have even stayed in business.

 

[Dan]

Wow...those type of swirls usually take an amateur years of bad washing to get that bad.

 

[Guitarist302008]

I have been going into the shop every Monday and Friday to check up on stuff.

I am going to spray wash the car today and capture all of the scratches that were caused by the detailer at the shop. That way I have something to fall back on incase they don't do a good enough job.

As far as the paint, the mirror is the only spot that I see that is like that. I assume because they did not let it dry like they before the base coat.

They said they use a camel hair mitt. So, I dunno much other then that.

I will find out if they will come good on it, on Monday, or Tuesday.



As far as the sealents and wax goes. Any opinions on the JetSeal/5050 combo compared to OptiSeal?

I am really considering OptiSeal, as we have some harsh winters.

I am open to other avenues of waxes and sealants.

Once the paint is all cured I would get a really good detail, or hopefully your insurance will take care of that and then use opti-coat if you have harsh winters and the car is outside a lot.

 

[Guitarist302008]

OP, also remember that you will likely have to REALLY keep on them for this. Most people have NO idea what true detailing even is. The insurance company will likely look at the car and think, "yeah there are some scratches". They do not realize detailing really is an art and how much a good detail costs might be more than they are willing to pay. At least get your paint fixed and then do it yourself or find one of the guys on here that's local to you and have it done if you don't feel like you have the confidence just yet. It does take practice like anything else.

 

[PerfectCreature]

OP, also remember that you will likely have to REALLY keep on them for this. Most people have NO idea what true detailing even is. The insurance company will likely look at the car and think, "yeah there are some scratches". They do not realize detailing really is an art and how much a good detail costs might be more than they are willing to pay. At least get your paint fixed and then do it yourself or find one of the guys on here that's local to you and have it done if you don't feel like you have the confidence just yet. It does take practice like anything else.

Well, they are a repair shop/auto-body shop. They have one bay for detailing and it is an older guy who does the detailing. Then they have 4 other bays. First two are for mechanical repairs, last two are for auto body and windows.

I have no problem detailing it myself, I have watched countless videos on technique and what not over the winter trying to get a good feel for how to do it. I think the biggest issue I will have is getting the right pad and compound for these. I think the Meguires UC should do the trick, if take it slow and make some extra passes. It is just by the time I pay the cost of the orbital, and however many pads I may need (I am guess 3-4? for the whole entire car) I would hitting about $180, at $120 for the orbitol, and $12 a pad.



After thumbing through the posts of people who have taken thier cars back to be fixed, and they come back worse, I am not even sure if I want them to fix the issues they cause. I may just have them repaint the mirror and call it good.



Back to sealants and waxes.

Okay, what would be the best wax to put on top the opti-seal, and how long does it normally last before it fades away? I know it says it lasts the lifetime of the car, but I can not imagine that to be true.



As far as a local Autopian, I looked and did not find anyone immediately close, unless I missed someone.



______________________-



After looking around, I decided I did not want to risk taking off to much clear coat, so I plan to do this:



Porter Cable XP 7424 WITH Atsro Pnuematics Backing Plate 4607

Meguiars W8006 Pad x2 (To be used with Meguiars Ultimate Compound as I think it will remove most of the moderate to severe imperfections)

Meguiars 9207 Pad x2 (To be used with Chemicals Guys EZ Creme Glaze w/ Acrylic Shine II. Should hide whatever is left over)

Chemical Guys JetSeal109 and 50/50 Wax (To protect all this hard effort-this will be applied by hand, 2 coats of JetSeal as directed, and 1 coat of 50/50. This way, I can continue to just glaze the car to keep the what is left of the swirl marks hidden)