example of why a paint cleaner is important

mixxer said:
very true howareb that the waterless wash didnt do **** but the main reason i used it was to get the dusting off the car so i didnt scratch and undo the work i had already done by polishing.what is the ratio you use for IPA wipe down im going to try that next time and see what happens?
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No prob man, I know that you had a reason :chuckle:



The IPA wipedown is usually a 50/50 mix of clear rubbing alcohol (no additives) and water. Also prepare yourself to have dirty MF towels instead of dirty pads. :chuckle: but the MF towels will clean up pretty nicely.



You could also use a "cleaning quick detailer" to clean also, like Megs Final Inspection or Menz Top Inspection. Both work pretty well IMO for preparing for the AIO/Cleaner Wax step. The Megs is the cheaper of the two and you can find it at a Carquest for around $10. The Menz is more expensive but it is a great compliment to clean up after the Menz polishes.
 
howareb said:
The IPA wipedown is usually a 50/50 mix of clear rubbing alcohol (no additives) and water. Also prepare yourself to have dirty MF towels instead of dirty pads. :chuckle: but the MF towels will clean up pretty nicely.
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An IPA wipe prior to the paint cleaner won't prevent dirty pads at all. All IPA does is remove wax/oil, not deep clean the paint like a paint cleaner will.
 
Bigpoppa3346 said:
An IPA wipe prior to the paint cleaner won't prevent dirty pads at all. All IPA does is remove wax/oil, not deep clean the paint like a paint cleaner will.
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It was a joke, based upon how the pad looked that he showed us. :chuckle:



If you would read up further in the thread, he used a no rinse waterless wash in between his polishing and AIO steps. The waterless wash did not remove the polish residue which is one reason why the pad looks as bad as it does. I agree that the IPA wipe down will not always translate to a pristine clean pad, but with the IPA wipedown the pad will look cleaner then what is shown.
 
Interesting.



So how many people would use a polish (or two such as SIP followed by 106) and then still follow up with a paint cleaner/AIO?
 
8Banger said:
What are some good AIOs? Can you just use a cleaner wax and get the same results, instead?
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Yeah, don't underestimate the cleaning power of (at least some) cleaner waxes. I think of KAIO as a "cleaner sealant" and I dont think it's a huge difference. I'm a pretty big fan of these types of products.



Besides the ZAIO, which is good stuff with some real abrasives in it (keep it off smooth black plastic trim, gee guess how I learned that :o ), there's also Autoglym SRP, which I kinda like better than KAIO for many jobs, even if it doesn't, IME, clean some contamination off quite as well.



Cleanerwax/similar: ClearKote VM, 1Z Metallic Polish with Wax and WaxPolishSoft. Never had any trim staining with any of these, in fact I use them *on* black plastic trim quite often. The stronger 1Z Paint Polish and Ultra/Extra Polish leave wax behind too, so they're really just very potent cleaner waxes IMO (very good stuff).



From Meg's, if you need more oomph than #6 there's #66, but IIRC it only comes in gallons. With their old #18 paste cleaner wax long gone (too bad, nice stuff) those are the best choices- I'm not a big fan of their consumer stuff (A12 liquid, Color-

X) but some people do like them and at least they're commonly available and pretty idiot-proof. Keep all of these off black trim, they really stain it something awful.



I've never tried the Mother's but I'd be surprised if it were all that different from the Meg's.



IMO the Pinnacle PCL and the similar P21S GEPC aren't really cleaner waxes, more like cleaner *glazes*. The little bit of stuff they leave behind won't provide any real protection at all. Between the two, I prefer the PCL. Zymol fans might suggest HD Cleanse, but I hear it's a PIA to use. The SwissVax (is that the correct name? :confused: is it Swissol?) Cleaner Fluid is highly regarded but I've never tried it.



Meg's Deep Crystal Step #1 Cleaner is a good OTC option.



But the nice thing about using a cleaner wax/sealant is that if you're pooped by the time you finish that step, you can hold off on the LSP application until after the next wash. Those last three (PCL, GEPC, DC#1) won't let you do that, they need to be topped right away.
 
Rob Tomlin said:
Interesting.



So how many people would use a polish (or two such as SIP followed by 106) and then still follow up with a paint cleaner/AIO?
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It all depends on how you want to prep your base. I do this AIO step with Klasse and Zaino(which is recommended) for bonding of other same type LSPs. It may not be necessary in all cases, but I personally like to take the extra step to ensure a clean surface ready for bonding (it only takes an extra 10-20 mins when applied by the UDM).
 
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