Embedded oils and dirt in a leather steering wheel

Dr. Woo

New member
My perpetual quest to eliminate the "shiny" oils and nastiness embedded in my leather steering wheel continues. So far it's been pretty tiring, but I'm not quite ready to give up.



Does anyone have any luck getting the shiny, slick surface of an old leather wheel restored to the matte-like finish of a brand-new car? I've used horsehair brushes, sponges, microfiber and plain cloth and still no joy. Do I need to be more aggressive? Do I need a more potent cleaner?



Some of the things I've read include using a 3M Delicate Duty Scuff Pad or even using plain hand soap. I'm not quite ready to go that far unless someone can tell me they have had results with these types of techniques.



...or is this endeavor futile?
 
I would try a leather cleaner. Duragloss, Meguairs LC's are sold locally.



Or bring it to a local leather shop, let them look at it and see what they recommend.
 
Swissvax has a product SPECIFICALLY for this purpose!

It removes that glossy shine from old steering wheels and gear knobs.



Swissvax's Gloss Corrector (Matt).
 
dfazekas said:
What chemicals are you using?



Any pics?

I currently have Leather Doctor's basic product line which includes a Leather Cleaner (Roger Koh, a member of this forum, sells these products). I also have Leather Master's light cleaner, and I have a 1:10 water:Woolite spray bottle that I use for various cleaning.



Unfortunately I have no pictures.



For those of you with product suggestions: What would you suggest as an applicator to get the oily sheen out of the leather?
 
Dr. Woo said:
I currently have Leather Doctor's basic product line which includes a Leather Cleaner (Roger Koh, a member of this forum, sells these products). I also have Leather Master's light cleaner, and I have a 1:10 water:Woolite spray bottle that I use for various cleaning.



Unfortunately I have no pictures.



For those of you with product suggestions: What would you suggest as an applicator to get the oily sheen out of the leather?



Removal of that oily sheen does not depend on the applicator.

Using a rough applicator in the attempt to abrade off the fatty oils, could damage/scour the surface.



To my knowledge, ONLY Swissvax has a product specifically to address this problem.

It removes the ingrained glossiness of old leather items that's been subjected to constant friction. I use it often on restoration projects and it's a beautiful product.



Swissvax Gloss Corrector (Matt).
 
gigondaz said:
Removal of that oily sheen does not depend on the applicator.

Using a rough applicator in the attempt to abrade off the fatty oils, could damage/scour the surface.



To my knowledge, ONLY Swissvax has a product specifically to address this problem.

It removes the ingrained glossiness of old leather items that's been subjected to constant friction. I use it often on restoration projects and it's a beautiful product.



Swissvax Gloss Corrector (Matt).

Is there anywhere to purchase this other than from Swissvax's own website? It's $70 on there.
 
I have had this same issue for years with all my past cars. If the steering wheel is 100% real leather what i have used for years to get the deep dirty and that shiny look out is a standard magic eraser. I know some people will say its to harsh and I have tested it on small areas before and have been using this method for over 4 years with no wear issues. Now I would not do this often its only used to deep clean, once that is done just maintain it weekly with a good wipe down with a microfiber and 10:1 woolite water mix. When using them magic eraser wet it well wring it out and use the woolite mixer to wet the steering wheel and gently rub the magic eraser on the leather. key word here GENTLY and that just whip it clean. I will be shocked if this does not solve your issue.
 
iluvspl said:
I have had this same issue for years with all my past cars. If the steering wheel is 100% real leather what i have used for years to get the deep dirty and that shiny look out is a standard magic eraser. I know some people will say its to harsh and I have tested it on small areas before and have been using this method for over 4 years with no wear issues. Now I would not do this often its only used to deep clean, once that is done just maintain it weekly with a good wipe down with a microfiber and 10:1 woolite water mix. When using them magic eraser wet it well wring it out and use the woolite mixer to wet the steering wheel and gently rub the magic eraser on the leather. key word here GENTLY and that just whip it clean. I will be shocked if this does not solve your issue.



+1 This is a quick and easy solution, and if you don't go crazy, no harm done.
 
Dr. Woo said:
I currently have Leather Doctor's basic product line which includes a Leather Cleaner (Roger Koh, a member of this forum, sells these products). I also have Leather Master's light cleaner, and I have a 1:10 water:Woolite spray bottle that I use for various cleaning.



Unfortunately I have no pictures.



For those of you with product suggestions: What would you suggest as an applicator to get the oily sheen out of the leather?





The solution to the problem with shining steering wheel is in the Prep-7.7…and only a horsehair brush to genteelly agitate it - see how advance technique is used with cling wrapper!



This picture shows the unwanted shining steering wheel of a BMW 335i removed to its original matte finish shown on the obvious right side.



To see more details, go to this link…My First Post and first "real" leather treatment project on my BMW 335i - Leather Cleaning Restoration Forum





WheelAfter1-1.jpg






Here's the before picture...

WheelBefore1-1.jpg








Roger Koh

[email protected]
 
Basically, a toothbrush and any standard leather cleaner or 1/20 - 1/10 woolite solution should do the trick.. time and patience will yield really good results. Just make sure to condition afterwards. If you really want to go the extra mile, do a Leatherique 2 part treatment and wrap the steering wheel in a bag/cling film for 12-24hrs with the cleaner to pull out all the dirt. Just be careful when leaving product for a long time that it's no where near electronics! Only on the outer steering wheel ring. You don't want product getting in behind eletronic buttons etc.
 
Be careful using Leatherique on steering wheels. The MIA (but fondly remembered) Lynn messed up the steering wheel of a mid-'70s Jag with that stuff. It worked fine on the car's other leather but really did a number on the steering wheel for some reason :nixweiss
 
iluvspl said:
I have had this same issue for years with all my past cars. If the steering wheel is 100% real leather what i have used for years to get the deep dirty and that shiny look out is a standard magic eraser. I know some people will say its to harsh and I have tested it on small areas before and have been using this method for over 4 years with no wear issues. Now I would not do this often its only used to deep clean, once that is done just maintain it weekly with a good wipe down with a microfiber and 10:1 woolite water mix. When using them magic eraser wet it well wring it out and use the woolite mixer to wet the steering wheel and gently rub the magic eraser on the leather. key word here GENTLY and that just whip it clean. I will be shocked if this does not solve your issue.

Asked my wife to pick up a Magic Eraser on the way home yesterday and, thanks to the looming threat of nasty weather, work was delayed for an hour today. Perfect to head into the garage and try out the Eraser.



After really gingerly rubbing on the wheel (my wife got a "50% stronger" version so I'm being extra careful) using the water:Woolite mixture as a lubricant for about 20 minutes, the wheel looks almost-new. I'm thoroughly impressed and positively giddy - it's done the job beautifully.



I will likely "erase" a little bit more a second time - still nice and easy - using Roger's Leather Doctor cleaner as the lubricant and then use the protectant as a finishing touch. I'll probably need to use a toothbrush to get into the stitched seams, but for the most part the Magic Eraser has ended my seemingly never-ending project.



Thanks for the tips!
 
Dr. Woo said:
I will likely "erase" a little bit more a second time - still nice and easy - using Roger's Leather Doctor cleaner as the lubricant and then use the protectant as a finishing touch. I'll probably need to use a toothbrush to get into the stitched seams, but for the most part the Magic Eraser has ended my seemingly never-ending project.



Thanks for the tips!





Points to Ponder!



The next cleaning at the similar soiling level will be more likely be tougher (micro scratched surface have more surface areas for soiling to lodge in) ; and when similar M.E. is used, it may show deteriorated pigment color on the M.E.



This is the effect of cleaning by “abrasion” – the finishes thin down in micron layers.



When protective urethane topcoating is reduced in micron layers; it becomes vulnerable to the effect of perspiration stains from our sweaty hands; more than the oil and grease.



It is therefore recommended that urethane topcoating be reapplied, to replaced what's been erased as the primary protectant – they come in choice of gloss, matte or satin; prior to the non-stick, rub-resistant secondary protectant as the finish touch; as for steering wheel it is safer to use draggy-feel for better grip rather than the buttery-feel design to lubricate the seat against the effect of rubbing during the moving in and out of vehicle.



An alternative safe restorative cleaning system without worrying about the urethane topcoating being erased is by Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.



Or an instant safe removal is by Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0





Roger Koh

[email protected]
 
Hope you used gloves with the eraser and had the window open.. from what I understand it's got a lot of formaldehyde..



Good to hear it worked out for you.
 
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