einszett Application Methods, Tips and Tricks

Mike @ einszett

Mike @ einszett

New member
There are none... :)



We often get asked if there are any special tips, tricks, methods for applying our products. The simple answer is 'no'.



Einszett has always been about simplicity and giving the straight answer without interlacing special techniques, "steps", using fancy jargon, etc that lie outside the realm of what is taught in the car care industry.



The only methods we endorse for using our products are those that are written on the back of the products (the directions) or what is stated on the website (www.1z-usa.com) or what Einszett Support or myself state in writing.



Therefore, you will never hear us promote "layering", tell you that you must complete multiple steps to achieve the best depth and gloss, that you can only use a certain type of applicator when applying our glass cleaner and so on and so on.



There is a lot of great advice on the Net, but I personally find that some of the advice given is over the top. You know that saying "The more you know the less you know"? I see that on a regular basis all over the Net.



Having worked in the paint industry, I can tell you that a lot of the 'methods' out there are suggested to get the customer to purchase more product. An example is using our polishes. I myself will use Paint Polish and follow up with Glanz Wax without using Metallic Polish. Will I get an extra kick of gloss and depth from using Metallic after Paint Polish and before GW? Maybe. Do I find it a necessary step? Definitely not. I find that PP finishes off so well that I can go straight to GW. Additionally, our directions on Paint Polish state to use Glanz Wax following its application. And no, this statement was not geared for the "amateur". This statement is geared for most every individual using our product regardless of their experience. I can confidently say this because we have folks in the paint shop industry with 40-50 years confirming the claims we make.



So my point is, Einszett doesn't want you guys and gals to make detailing more time consuming, complicated and most of all costly unless you intentionally make that decision. Detail the car, drive it and show it off! Plus, if we wanted to make an extra sale with every polish purchase, we would gladly endorse a multiple step system. But we don't because we know that it's not necessary. We actually take great pride in the fact that with our products 100% satisfaction can be a result of using only one product. Efficiency is what Einszett strives for every time.



Anyway, just follow the directions on the label or check out are website or ask us and trust what we have to say :)



In the meantime, please DO continue to ask your questions. I just wanted to clarify our stand on something that we feel has become fairly rampant in the last few years: clever marketing.



As always, many thanks for all your support :)



All the best,
 
:xyxthumbs



Efficiency, that is the reason I love 1Z products. I often wonder what some of these people do for fun, because I love a shiny, clean car, but I love driving it more than cleaning it! Thanks for a great reality check Mike.
 
Macgirl- Heh heh, what you said :xyxthumbs



Mike- I'll agree with what you said, and yes, the MP is an optional step after PP. Sometimes I believe I see a difference, sometimes I don't.



I *DO*, however, have a question about being able to "just follow the instructions on the can". Like the PP and MP, the label on the Ultra Polish *also* says one can go straight to wax, but I've NEVER got a "ready to wax" finish from ultra. It always leaves (at least) micro-marring that needs a follow-up step. Any comments?
 
Accumulator: This is a good point. Actually Ultra (Extra) was designed for those who have heavily oxidized cars hence the warning on the label stating 'not for new cars'. It wasn't designed as a swirl removing polish in the Shop Line because most people can solve those issues with PP. So, when you consider that it was designed for paintwork that was completely lifeless and Extra brings it back to life, following up with GW will be a very good result.



Now, if you are wanting to completely restore it, following up with Paint Polish will be necessary. But from there, you could go straight to a wax or as JGV stated, a finishing product like Express or Waxpolish Soft.



Note: if you apply Extra with a rotary, you can get a near fine finish. Just work at a lower speed 700-1000 rpms and work the product longer. Actually, work the product longer even if using a DA.



The most common feedback I get from everyday enthusiasts is that what took them multiple steps to achieve with another brand, they usually have it narrowed down to 1 step (2 steps max) with Einszett. This is the same feedback I get with our Pro-Line products when I go to the shops. There are times they say they can cut with Intensive Paste Cutting Compound and produce a near fine finish.



I just love hearing it and seeing the enthusiasm in their face. :D



Regards,
 
OK, gotcha :xyxthumbs Different applications and different expectations. I *DID* find that I got a much better post-Ultra finish with the rotary, but I guess jgv said it best:
"...you'll be ok (maybe not you but regular paintshops or detailers)"
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:D Heh heh, I'm a bit more demanding than most :o
 
I have to agree with you Mike. I find all the Einszett products that i've used to work great. So far i've been using the Ultra, PP, GW, Anti-insekt, and Tiefenpfleger and like them all. Infact it's about time to order another can of PP.
 
You say just follow the instructions on the can. But the instructions on pp and mp say to apply and allow to dry(not buff until dry) before buffing to a gloss or something like that, kinda like a wax/sealant. Are you saying that these don't have to be worked in or am I missing something.
 
I hate to repeat a question already asked but I haven't found anything on what pads to use with the PC. I would guess it depends on how bad the paint is. Would you guys use a white finishing pad w/ MP to remove very minor swirls. I would think the orange would cut a little too much for minor flaws. Any help would be great.
 
METICULOUSMAN said:
I hate to repeat a question already asked but I haven't found anything on what pads to use with the PC. I would guess it depends on how bad the paint is. Would you guys use a white finishing pad w/ MP to remove very minor swirls. I would think the orange would cut a little too much for minor flaws. Any help would be great.
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I've used both the orange and white pads with the Metallic Polish and I prefer the white. The orange didn't seem to cut much but I liked the finish the white left better, more gloss. The white worked good to remove minor marring and scratches that might have been left when washing/QD-ing. I don't think you could go wrong with either pad, try them both and see what you like best.



edit: I'm using a PC :)
 
As Macgirl said, you can't really go wrong with your pad selection (though common sense applies).



I have never tried the orange pads, but I've had good luck with the following (this is by RO, not rotary):



UP- yellow cutting pads, Cyclo green (polishing).



PP- yellow cutting, white polishing, Cyclo green,



MP- white polishing, Cyclo green, Griot's orange.



Haven't tried the MP with a finishing pad, but I'm confident it would work just fine if you could do without any real "cut".
 
Thanks everone! Sorry Iv'e been working my truck and didn't get around to sending a thank you. My truck came GREAT! I liked the orange pad with PP and finished off with white pad & MP. Sorry no pics. Worked till dark.
 
One other question I would like to ask. I noticed on the last two cars ive done that it took 2 seperate applications of PP to get rid of the scratches and swirls on the customers cars. In these cases should i go with the UPP first them PP and if I need MP. This is all being done with my PC.
 
METICULOUSMAN said:
One other question I would like to ask. I noticed on the last two cars ive done that it took 2 seperate applications of PP to get rid of the scratches and swirls on the customers cars. In these cases should i go with the UPP first them PP and if I need MP. This is all being done with my PC.
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No. Patience is the key. Sometimes it does take two applications of a product to remedy a problem--all depending on the severity of the issue. Just because it doesn't go away immediately the first time does it mean that you have to bump it up a whole other level.



It can take two even three apps for some swirlmarks.



Regards,
 
Could we get some more recommendations now with using 1z, UPP and PP specifically, with a rotary? 700-1000rpm only? Ok with both a cutting and polishing pad? How about if I cranked it up past 1000, say 1400+ I'd like to get familar with how 1z can perform with the rotary.
 
Bill D.- The 1Z polishes break down pretty fast by rotary, so you need to work them at slower-than-normal speeds (like 7-800) for the abrasives to really abrade. Once they break down (you get a sense of this with a little practice) you can speed it up for a nice finish. One good thing about this (IMO) is that you're sorta forced to err on the side of caution when using 1Z polishes by rotary.
 
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