Easy on/off wax question

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eddie926

New member
Before I really got into detailing and got a PC, etc., the paint on my 95 Camry had gotten to the point where no matter what wax I tried, it was a pain to put on and take off. I guess the paint was oxidized or something and any wax would just adhere and I'd just about kill myself trying to buff it out. Even the spray on "quick waxes". To the point where I gave up on it for awhile.



Then, I got my PC and did a multi step correction. Following this, waxes or sealants glide on and wipe off easy as can be.



Another perfect example of how the condition of the paint is critical to LSP application/performance, etc.



Now to my question.



If you have a customer who wants a wash and wax, but doesn't want to pay for any correction, what do you use?



Is there ANY product that will go on and wipe off easily regardless of the paint condition. (Within reason. Obviously I'm not talking about paint that is visibly completely trashed, etc. My Camry didn't LOOK that bad.)
 
Yes. Ultima PGP. It is so easy to wipe off, you don't have to wipe it off.



Put on a quick coat or two of DWG, and immediately wipe on a light coat of UPGP.
 
Claying should help a lot with the paint smoothness. If the paint is too oxidized for the wax to go on smoothly, it's not going to last very long (won't adhere properly because the surface isn't "clean"). In any case, you need to do some pre-wax prep (hence the reason there are products known as "pre-wax cleaners"). Clay helps a lot, and/or a (chemical) paint cleaner. The paint cleaner can be done by hand but of course is going to go faster/work better by machine.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Claying should help a lot with the paint smoothness. If the paint is too oxidized for the wax to go on smoothly, it's not going to last very long (won't adhere properly because the surface isn't "clean"). In any case, you need to do some pre-wax prep (hence the reason there are products known as "pre-wax cleaners"). Clay helps a lot, and/or a (chemical) paint cleaner. The paint cleaner can be done by hand but of course is going to go faster/work better by machine.
Click to expand...



Yes, I completely understand that. But, if you have a customer who "just doesn't get it", isn't willing to pay for any prep, etc., do you just tell them you can't wax the car if you don't properly prep it first, or do you go ahead and wax as they've requested, but use some product that will work easily in that situation?



I guess maybe the underlying question is, do you take the "partial job" if they don't want to pay for everything that needs to be done?
 
Tell them the wax is going to be useless if the paint won't properly adhere with the wax. Also explain that the wax won't last long at all without proper claying etc.



At this point, I'd make a business decision. Let them know that their money isn't well-spent if they really do need prep-work for waxing the car. If they are reluctant, then I'd just use the PGP and forget about it. They'll be back when the paint loses it's luster.
 
I wouldn't use UPGP on an oxidized finish, it won't bond well and won't bead water well at all. The customer might think you didn't even apply wax. I think any of the spray waxes would probably end in the same result.



I think a good carnauba is what you need in this case, so it beads well and the customer knows you at least put on wax like they paid for. Something that is WOWO without having to wait for haze would work better so you don't have any difficulty removing. I hear 476s can be used that way and is quite durable so would help negate as much of the effect of poor wax bonding to oxidized paint.
 
Did 2 cars like that this week, one a 200 grand prix and the other a 2001 corolla with 170000 km on it. Both almost never washed or waxed, both of them were clayed for the first time, made a world of difference, then klasse AIO, then the grand prix got 2 coats of Collonite Insulator Wax and the corolla a coat of blackfire all paint protection. Both of these products are easy on and off. Really gotta love the klasse all in one for the faded paint of an older car,, brings the color right back.
 
My sister's 94 Civic (white) hadn't been washed or waxed in at least 10 years when I did it recently. It has been outside it's entire life in CA and then PA. Outer surface of paint was pure chalk. I couldn't stand looking at it anymore so when I was there recently we did a quick wash, quick pass around it with TW Polishing Compound, I rubbed a few spots a bit more, wiped it down thoroughly, put on NuFinish (AIO) then topped it quickly with DWG. We did get up some decent paint after the polishing pass. I can't imagine how anything would have bonded to it without having done the compound pass. Maybe the NuFinish, since it is a pretty strong AIO (not my favorite, don't use it on my own cars, no flaming replies please, but it made sense for hers since it needed more paint cleaning, no time for another polishing pass.)
 
Even if the owner isn't willing to shell out for proper prep, giving it a once over with poli-seal and buffing off any residue with OCW hardly takes any more time than hand application of a more traditional LSP.
 
If you're willing to order in something, try Finish Kare's 215. It does slight correction as well as some protection.
 
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