Duragloss Layering Questions

J

jdlierle

New member
Does anyone have experience with layering Duragloss TPP 105. What is the wait time between coats. Can I layer the same day? Shouldn't you let a synthetic cure for 24 hours before you layer?



From my reading of Duragloss, there is a definite improvement in wetness, with more coats, but if you are detailing a customers car with this product, how is this product feasible time wise? Tried to call Duragloss but they were closed by the time I get home being I am West Coast time.



How does Duragloss compare to UPP? I have heard great things about the new red dot 49 anyone know when that might come on the market?



Should be getting my rotary this week :laugh: , that should keep me busy, and hopefully I will put an order in for some different products from Duragloss. I too, :p , like their aqua wax. My supplier though told me not to buy anything in bulk until the red dot becomes available.



Doug



So Cal Shine Shop
 
I've sprayed 111 with ISO after aprox 45 minutes time and it continued to bead- It's a durable product. The 105 is even more durable according to DG. For paying customers I'd do601/105 and top with AW.
 
How long would you wait for the 105 or 111 to cure before you would put AW on? (You let 105 set 15 minutes anyway to haze anyway before you take it off anyway). Can Duragloss be put on in sunshine also?



Thanks for the reply. How do you like Durgloss compared to the other products out there like UPP, etc.? Do you think customers would prefer this over other products? Cost of the products is not really a concern, just want a easy to apply LSP product that customers will notice an improvement over, especially after I spend a few hours polishing on in most cast cases.



Doug
 
I just did 3 layers of 105...one each day....came out real nice...



But as Wannafbody said..for a paying customer..just do the 601..105 and then AW..plenty of durability there...I have gone over 6 months on just 111..and still looks nice on another car...the 105 is more fortified with acrylics and polymers..



The chemist Jerry said 24 hours between layers for optimal cure and crosslinking..



the 105 is much slicker than UPP...goes on so easy and removes with a slight wipe...and sun friendly...not a dust attractant..no staining..took about a 1/2 oz to do my truck..just keeps spreading...and gets better with age...does deepen darker colored paint..and is very clear...no muting..



here is a link to my truck and process http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74181



And as far as red dot goes..if you think it is going to be 9.95 for 16oz..then I would wait....



Al
 
sorry to revive a very old thread.



When layering #105 - is it wise/ok to always put down a layer of #601 first?



Obviously I do #601 initially, but do I also do it on subsequent layers?
 
yeh I am not sure either - does the cleaner just remove the sealant from previous layers?



anyways I mixed 601 and 105 on the pad...



final coat was just straight 111...



going to AW next..
 
I was told by one of the "DG owners" that if your paint is in good shape you would be ok with just #105.



I've tried both ways with the 601 followed by the #105 and then #105 by itself.. Both ways lasted for me at least 3.5 months.. By this time I was ready to try something else anyway, so durability wasn't that big of a factor.



As far as layering, if DG contains a slight cleaner you would likely be wasting your time putting layer upon layers on it, like you can with Zaino Z2-Z-5



I'm sure many on this board can't go 3-4 months without re-waxing, or using a some type of detailing spray like Aquawax, or Z8 etc.. So durability isn't much of a factor for many of us on here. jmo
 
From Duragloss "Duragloss Total Performance Polish is a cleaner and polish in one that improves and protects the paint surface for an incredibly durable finish." So to me 2 layers just to make sure you cover all your car. The "cleaner" would probably remove previous layers.
 
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