Duragloss Aquawax...

I'm glad to see some hype finally for Duragloss. They make a great product. Their soap is one of the best in OTC land.



I'll be looking to try the AquaWax soon. I think my local NAPA has it. It seems to be somewhat similar to Z-8 in how it performs (slickness over time, spray on sealant, etc.) but I'm not sure it will work as well as the Z-8 over Zaino applications.
 
I tried some AW today after cleaning up my F150. Its super easy to use and for the price it can't be beat.



It does compare in looks to OCW. I will wait and see how it lasts durability wise.
 
It also "matures." Check it tomorrow and you may see a difference. I know I do.



Slowly but surely, my signature is proving true :)
 
skipperw said:
I am still confused. I use FMJ on my truck. I do not want to top it with wax or wax based QD. I am now using HGAS and 425. If AW has any wax or carnauba in it,I will not use it. So, does it or doesn't it have wax or carnauba.
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there were 4 or 5 post prior asking if AW had any wax (caranuba) in it.and the answers were ..NO...None..Zilch...it is a pure Polymer sealant...



you will get your best look from it a day or two later....



Remember ..This has no cleaners in it...so paint has to be clean before applying...It is not a QD ...best results are on a dried car finish...and according to Duragloss rep..it will not take off any LSP...and will layer upon it self....



Again..No wax in AW....



Al
 
I used AW yesterday as a final LSP on a paid detail. This car was a maroon Nissan Sentra that is 2 years old, and had NEVER been washed~! After claying and several polishing steps, the last being PB PWC, I applied the AW. Gave the car an outstanding shine, and my customer was very happy.



Today I applied it to my wife's new white Forester that had recently been treated with Klasse SG-2 coats. The AW actually improved the SG shine. Can't wait until it cures for a couple days to see the improvement people are talking about. Also, can't wait to see the bead after a rain.
 
Spilchy said:
It also "matures." Check it tomorrow and you may see a difference. I know I do.



Slowly but surely, my signature is proving true :)
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It's the next day for us, and my review/results are after washing with either FK1's 118sc shampoo or DG's 901 (both are top notch) you can go with either FK's FX-100 (organic mix) or DG's AW (synthetic) for a nice slick surface and walk away ... or TOP either with FK1's 425 for further enhancement. FK & DG are in a catagory where neither one is better than the other - just slightly different - but work well together also.
 
Just put another coat of aquawax on my car today. I don't have a garage and park under trees (no other option) so my car gets filthy and the LSP's usually don't last long. It's nice to just clean the car and put a coat of AW down. I did a multi step process a few weeks ago and i think the bi-weekly coat of AW is keeping the fruits of my labor from spoiling.



BTW, Aquawax kicks *** on glass.
 
I got my duragloss shipment this past week consisting of more shampoo and some AW. I had not immediately thought of the comparo between Optimum's most excellent spray wax and the #951, but I guess it makes sense to compare. However, IMO, the #951 is a real time-saver since it can be misted on while the car is wet and doesn't add an additional step the way the Optimum product does. The Optimum is a tough product to beat - - I've had stellar results with it.



Unfortunately, I used the #951 on a car that's coated with the Werkstatt products so I wasn't anticipating a big bump from the #951 application. The car looked nice when it was done but I didn't see a big before/after change in appearance. I did not an extreme slickness/silkiness as I wiped the panels dry with my WW towels. That was notable.



I'll do #951 on my daily driver this coming weekend - - that will be more representative to me.
 
Tom P.

The AW works better if you apply to a dry car instead....you should see much better results then using on a wet car...I know they say you can use on a wet car..but I and a few others found that a dry car works much better....better shine and slickness...and wetter looking on the paint...



AL
 
I agree, definitely use on a dry surface for maximum pop. Water would tend to dilute the AW on the surface and yield less optimal results. The AW is known for its slickness, and I much prefer it now compared to OCW.
 
Guys, if I need to apply it to a dry car, adding another step, it somewhat defeats the purpose of speeding thru the process. I had assumed y'all were applying after final rinse. :nixweiss



Is this product truly "better" than OCW when applied to a dry car? Do I need this product to replace OCW??



Thx.
 
Yeah I'm nearing the end of my AW. I don't care about durability because I top almost bi weekly after the wash. With 425 it lasts even longer, basically my Arctic Silver paint is always slick.

What I'm interested in is which has the the deeper wetter shine, OCW or AW.



p.s.

AW and FX100 have two totally different looks. The carnauba in FX100 gives the paint a shimmer like when using P21s. Much sharper than AW but not nearly as wet. The AW makes the paint look deeper/wetter but you lose a bit of the clarity. I prefer depth over glimmer on Silver so I'll stick with AW until I get bored and go back to FX100 or we'll see how OCW does on Silver. Been wanting to try Z8 as well. I think the companies should make small trave size spray bottles for $5 so you don't have 10 gallons of product lying around.
 
I find that AW last way longer than OCW ...I used OCW last summer and founf it only lasted 3-4 weeks tops and then degraded...surface got grabby..beading was falling off..it is not a bad product...but just does not work good in New England weather with lots of rain and Industrail fallout..



I have to wash at least once a week because of where I work..100's of trucks come in daily to bring in mail and pickup mail...so washing OCW weekly seemed to wash it away..



When I had 111 on the truck and used AW..it beaded for 7-8 weeks and shine was still like the day I did it..deep and wet looking....



I did the truck over in the 105 and used AW once and FC&S a few times to get truck yard grime off..and it looks great today....even after lots of rain and washes...beading is like the day I did it....



I have used it on dark and light paints and have seen it work great on both...People in work have asked me how I got my truck so nice and told them..now I see people on thier lunch break wipeing down thier cars and trucks. I get asked daily to do cars for people ..but I just have no time and I have advanced Lyme diease which is killing me slowly...no cure after you have it for over a year and go undiagnosed...it goes into remission till you have a outbreak...



AW is not a product for every one it seems..it may react with some LSP's as I see it in some posts...but using with the duragloss products... it is the cats a$$..



Think of it like the Zaino system..all the products compliment each other...it is a system where all products work together...



my 2 favorite products(LSP) to date are Klasse Twins..and Duragloss...also forgot Collinite waxes....thats my winter coat...collinite will not give up thru the winter..just keeps on going....



Al
 
tom p. said:
Guys, if I need to apply it to a dry car, adding another step, it somewhat defeats the purpose of speeding thru the process. I had assumed y'all were applying after final rinse. :nixweiss



Is this product truly "better" than OCW when applied to a dry car? Do I need this product to replace OCW??



Thx.
Click to expand...



Do you not have 5 minutes to dry the car? Then apply the AW to the dry surface... I think most everyone who has started using the AW is applying to a dry surface, for best results.





Only you can decide if AW is better than OCW for your needs. IMO, I found that AW is significantly better than OCW, particularly in the durability and protection area. Others like OCW, but it was just not for me. I noticed the protection was nearly gone after about 4 weeks (at which point the AW is still going like the day it was applied). After 4 weeks of OCW, my paint was very "catchy" feeling with zero slickness, and the wash mitt was not gliding across the surface, as if there was no protection present. With the AW, the mitt just glides right across. Plus, the AW beaded for 1.5 months for me until I covered it with DG 105 sealant. I am positive the AW would have gone at least 2 months, but I interupted its durability testing with the 105. So, IMO, yes the AW is much better for *me* and my needs. I am sure part of the difference lies with the fact that OCW is part carnauba, whereas AW is all syn.



I can find both AW and OCW locally, but the OCW (at about $8-9) is about $1-2 higher than the AW here. So, I just see no need to use OCW any longer....in fact, my OCW is just collecting dust in my trunk now....
 
Guys, I appreciate the reality check-in. I am just following the mfr's directions by applying it to a wet car and performing a single wipe down. I didn't see specific info on this product that suggested it was a replacement for OCW or that it wasn't applied to a wet car. For me, I'd much rather mist a little on a wet surface and dry the car, walk away and be done. I am not looking for another post-wash/dry step ...and I was not looking for an OCW replacement.



However, based upon all the recs, I will try it on a clean, dry car.



I never had any issues concerns with OCW. It's one of those products that requires minimal input and that's gonna correlate to minimum durability. I accept that. I hope y'all are right about the AW lasting quite a bit longer, I'll give it a try .



Thanks again.
 
interesting but I like to also dry the car using a spray wax type product but I'm more partial to a quick detailer with a cleansing ability like FK 146.

I dunno but it seems like drying the car+straight to AW or OCW would be something of a half step.

You'll get more pop out of the spray wax if you thoroughly remove debris/dirt/soot that might not have been left behind during the rinse. well unless you wash and clay each time.
 
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