2008 Aston Martin DB9 Sport Pack
Car was booked for a 3 day full correction and show preparation.
Wheels came first, tires pre cleaned using ARO. P21s wheel gel was left to sit for a few minutes, even though the wheels were very dirty I just dont believe in letting wheel cleaner sit on the wheel for 20 or 30 minutes. If it works, it will do the job in a few minutes or so... otherwise you need a stronger wheel cleaner but thats just my opinion.
Behind the spokes, calipers, hub mounting face etc. all cleaned with various brushes. Wheel wells received APC 4:1 scrubbed with a MF mitt.
Everything was rinsed thoroughly...
After, inner barrels de-tarred with Tarminator later on before polishing.
Paint was rinsed at high pressure, then foamed using a mixture of CG maxi Suds and a Biodegradable APC to help strip some of the prior LSP
Rinsing off the foam
2 bucket method carried out using CG citrus wash and clear.
Before the sun came back out I pulled the car inside to dry it and begin claying. Megs mild clay and ONR lube were used. The clay picked up a good amount of grime, some areas like the hood and truck were clayed twice.
Before starting correction I worked on the interior
Interior, although small took me about 2 hours to get back to 100%. All plastics, glass, trim, doorjambs and leather were treated.
Doorjmabs were hand polished and sealed, the rubber trim around them was dressed with TRV too.
Some finished shots (Passport 9500i properly hardwired and discrete like it should be, so many of my customers have valentine 1 wires hanging from the windshield:shakehead
The aluminum trim around the shiftboot was hand polished using wet mirror finish, which has proven to be a killer all around product. After
Trunk jambs were cleaned and sealed as well...
during
After...
After claying the car was given 2 IPA wipedowns to ensure all prior waxes or sealants were stripped off as well as any clay residue. Good test to see if the finish is well stripped if to place your finger tip on a panel and gently rub, if it squeaks instantly your usually okay to move onto correction.
All delicate areas and trim were tapped off. Paint readings were taken after that, the driver side front fender had been repainted but was a surprising perfect match to the rest of the car.
(Yes I got a haircut as the heat was getting to me)
The front nose and headlights had clear film protection. I started with those areas. While the paint was rotary corrected I found that Bob's DA method works best on the clear film.
I used the Flex 3401 and a polishing pad with Menzerna 106FA to correct, and then followed up with 106FA again on a finishing pad. I like the FA on the film because its pretty oily so it helps keep the heat down.
Under the halogens
The car had some RIDS and wash induced stuff. Nothing major but this was not a 95% job, this was a 100% so I chose a 3 step process which would properly correct and finish down the paint the way I wanted it.
Menzerna Power finish w/ a polishing pad
Menzerna 106FA w/ a polishing pad
Menzerna 85rd w/ a glazing pad
Working the hood with Power Finish. I started at 1100,1500, 1900rpm then backed down to 1100rpm. I finished down each stage as thoroughly as possible to really ensure the finish was properly leveled.
This being an Aston my main concern was sanding scratches which come from the factory. The car seemed to get away clean except for a few select areas like by the lower blinkers.
This same area on the blue vantage Bob and I did has a ton of issues. Spotting them in the halogens on the silver was tough but with the lights off in the garage the fenix picked up some pigtailing and RIDS.
I switched up to M105 with a 3" tufbuf wool pad, and then followed up with the 106FA and 85rd again.
Some various correction shots...
Working 85rd with a 3' finishing pad
The passenger side had a tiny scratch just above the door handle. After a few attempts at compouding it didnt budge so I had to wetsand it with 2500grit and follow up with the wool. Its lightened a bit was not able to be removed 100%.
Some more cut was needed on the passenger side so I stepped up to the DD yellow cutting pad from the green. Very surprised at the level of cut and finish you get with this, much more smooth than the orange foams.
Powerfinish breaking down
Trunk under the halogens, 2 steps down.
After correction..
Some old wax residue by the plate
Fixed
Car was booked for a 3 day full correction and show preparation.
Wheels came first, tires pre cleaned using ARO. P21s wheel gel was left to sit for a few minutes, even though the wheels were very dirty I just dont believe in letting wheel cleaner sit on the wheel for 20 or 30 minutes. If it works, it will do the job in a few minutes or so... otherwise you need a stronger wheel cleaner but thats just my opinion.
Behind the spokes, calipers, hub mounting face etc. all cleaned with various brushes. Wheel wells received APC 4:1 scrubbed with a MF mitt.
Everything was rinsed thoroughly...
After, inner barrels de-tarred with Tarminator later on before polishing.
Paint was rinsed at high pressure, then foamed using a mixture of CG maxi Suds and a Biodegradable APC to help strip some of the prior LSP
Rinsing off the foam
2 bucket method carried out using CG citrus wash and clear.
Before the sun came back out I pulled the car inside to dry it and begin claying. Megs mild clay and ONR lube were used. The clay picked up a good amount of grime, some areas like the hood and truck were clayed twice.
Before starting correction I worked on the interior
Interior, although small took me about 2 hours to get back to 100%. All plastics, glass, trim, doorjambs and leather were treated.
Doorjmabs were hand polished and sealed, the rubber trim around them was dressed with TRV too.
Some finished shots (Passport 9500i properly hardwired and discrete like it should be, so many of my customers have valentine 1 wires hanging from the windshield:shakehead
The aluminum trim around the shiftboot was hand polished using wet mirror finish, which has proven to be a killer all around product. After
Trunk jambs were cleaned and sealed as well...
during
After...
After claying the car was given 2 IPA wipedowns to ensure all prior waxes or sealants were stripped off as well as any clay residue. Good test to see if the finish is well stripped if to place your finger tip on a panel and gently rub, if it squeaks instantly your usually okay to move onto correction.
All delicate areas and trim were tapped off. Paint readings were taken after that, the driver side front fender had been repainted but was a surprising perfect match to the rest of the car.
(Yes I got a haircut as the heat was getting to me)
The front nose and headlights had clear film protection. I started with those areas. While the paint was rotary corrected I found that Bob's DA method works best on the clear film.
I used the Flex 3401 and a polishing pad with Menzerna 106FA to correct, and then followed up with 106FA again on a finishing pad. I like the FA on the film because its pretty oily so it helps keep the heat down.
Under the halogens
The car had some RIDS and wash induced stuff. Nothing major but this was not a 95% job, this was a 100% so I chose a 3 step process which would properly correct and finish down the paint the way I wanted it.
Menzerna Power finish w/ a polishing pad
Menzerna 106FA w/ a polishing pad
Menzerna 85rd w/ a glazing pad
Working the hood with Power Finish. I started at 1100,1500, 1900rpm then backed down to 1100rpm. I finished down each stage as thoroughly as possible to really ensure the finish was properly leveled.
This being an Aston my main concern was sanding scratches which come from the factory. The car seemed to get away clean except for a few select areas like by the lower blinkers.
This same area on the blue vantage Bob and I did has a ton of issues. Spotting them in the halogens on the silver was tough but with the lights off in the garage the fenix picked up some pigtailing and RIDS.
I switched up to M105 with a 3" tufbuf wool pad, and then followed up with the 106FA and 85rd again.
Some various correction shots...
Working 85rd with a 3' finishing pad
The passenger side had a tiny scratch just above the door handle. After a few attempts at compouding it didnt budge so I had to wetsand it with 2500grit and follow up with the wool. Its lightened a bit was not able to be removed 100%.
Some more cut was needed on the passenger side so I stepped up to the DD yellow cutting pad from the green. Very surprised at the level of cut and finish you get with this, much more smooth than the orange foams.
Powerfinish breaking down
Trunk under the halogens, 2 steps down.
After correction..
Some old wax residue by the plate
Fixed
