Dried Clear After Wet Sand & Overspray on Engine - HELP removing

[MusicMan]

First off let me note, i didn't do this. This is a customer/client/friend of mine who had his car repainted and the painters left sanded clear coat in several areas that has now DRIED.



Ive never dealt with this since i wipe up what i sand. But apparently there is some in the cracks/crevices of the inside lip of the hood. Also there is some on the interior (how that got there God only knows), not sure if its on the leather or vinyl, but the owner said cleaner on the interior hasn't done a damn thing to make it budge.





I need something that will WORK. Im considering trying to steam out the interior dried spots, if thats possible. But other ideas are surely welcome.



I'll make another tread on this but i'll post it here for anyone whos reading, but apparently there is a nice layer of overspray on the engine compartment too. This is NOT your average engine:

He told me there is overspray on the painted areas, the chrome AND hoses. ***!



This isn't my car, but im pissed an im taking it upon myself to get this thing back to how it should be, period. I just need to go armed with the best info, gear and technique i can.



Im assuming i can clay off the overspray from the chrome and the paint. What about the rubber hoses though? Is there a chemical i can use to help soften the over spray and remove it, maybe acetone, but somethign that WONT harm or discolor the hoses or harm the paint if some were to come in contact with it?



Help and suggestions would be appreciated...hopefully some vets here can chime in also.



thanks all.

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

Blade it, then clay through the wax, bro....



No in all seriousness, I think steam for the interior is a good approach; clear coat slurry, if that's really all it is, should come off that way. As for the painted parts and the engine bay I would try clay first, and as long as the paint has had long enough to cure maybe hit it with ABC wash if that and/or steam doesn't do the trick. You can also probably go with metal polish if any of it is on the supercharger and CAI tube.

 

[MusicMan]

Blade it, then clay through the wax, bro....



No in all seriousness, I think steam for the interior is a good approach; clear coat slurry, if that's really all it is, should come off that way. As for the painted parts and the engine bay I would try clay first, and as long as the paint has had long enough to cure maybe hit it with ABC wash if that and/or steam doesn't do the trick. You can also probably go with metal polish if any of it is on the supercharger and CAI tube.

lol, kind of the approach i had in mind. Apparently in areas its not just specs though, its a nice thin little layer, he said the hoses looked 'white'...not literally but they have so much clear on them they have a nice glazed look to them. Its surely had long enough to cure i know this much for sure. I know the supercharger has it on it and he's working on that part himself right now but having a very hard time with the small areas, he suggested trying a dremell but neither of us have one.



Thoughts?

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

he suggested trying a dremell but neither of us have one.



Thoughts?

Definitely pick one up, it'll be worth it even just for maintaining that beast over time. Make sure it's variable speed and will spin slow enough to be an effective polisher (as opposed to strictly an electric die grinder). I picked up a cordless one for $60 at Home Depot that works great.

 

[MusicMan]

Definitely pick one up, it'll be worth it even just for maintaining that beast over time. Make sure it's variable speed and will spin slow enough to be an effective polisher (as opposed to strictly an electric die grinder). I picked up a cordless one for $60 at Home Depot that works great.

Do you have a link to the one you got? What type of connectino do you use with it...and have you tried polishing with it? I looked into one 3 years back ro so, saw a lot of ppl had 'blue smoke' coming from theirs so i backed off lol. Just didnt know how effective it would be at polishing...figured it be super time consuming.

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

Do you have a link to the one you got? What type of connectino do you use with it...and have you tried polishing with it? I looked into one 3 years back ro so, saw a lot of ppl had 'blue smoke' coming from theirs so i backed off lol. Just didnt know how effective it would be at polishing...figured it be super time consuming.

I've got the 10.8V cordless... the 8000 model:



Amazon.com: Dremel 8000-03 10.8-Volt Lithium Ion Cordless Rotary Tool: Home Improvement



I've just been using the felt cone tips with it, usually sticking to the slowest speed it'll run at and it works fine for polishing. Yes, it's time consuming to use but it's still a time saver over working by hand or with q-tips in all the little ribbed areas on something like that supercharger. One thing you could do is knock out the big areas with a power drill and a Mother's PowerBall or PowerCone, or the Meguar's DynaCone, then just hit what that can't reach with the Dremel.

 

[Ron Ketcham]

Know where Gilbert is.

Right in the Phoenix area, Harbor Frieght has their version for less than $20.

Not worth worrying about the cordless feature for a tool one would use once or twice a year, normally.

I do like your approach to dealing with part of the concern.

Grumpy

 

[MusicMan]

Know where Gilbert is.

Right in the Phoenix area, Harbor Frieght has their version for less than $20.

Not worth worrying about the cordless feature for a tool one would use once or twice a year, normally.

I do like your approach to dealing with part of the concern.

Grumpy

Yeah i have one about 5 miles from me. Does their version come with the right connecters for polishing and is it variable speed?

 

[Ron Ketcham]

Without going out to my shop and taking a look, not sure.

Go take a look, read the box, etc, they have a couple of versions.

Grumpy

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

Yeah i have one about 5 miles from me. Does their version come with the right connecters for polishing and is it variable speed?

Dremel tools and the knock-off versions HF has use a small shaft drill chuck for all of the attachments you'd be using -- if the unit you buy doesn't come with the felt cones, you can buy them separately.



Main thing to look out for with the cheapo HF units is the RPMs -- some of them spin faster than you'd ideally want to use for polishing metal. In fact, looking at their website only this one goes down to 5000 RPM like the unit I suggested:



9.6 Volt Cordless, Variable Speed Rotary Tool Kit



Just my $0.02

 

[MusicMan]

Dremel tools and the knock-off versions HF has use a small shaft drill chuck for all of the attachments you'd be using -- if the unit you buy doesn't come with the felt cones, you can buy them separately.



Main thing to look out for with the cheapo HF units is the RPMs -- some of them spin faster than you'd ideally want to use for polishing metal. In fact, looking at their website only this one goes down to 5000 RPM like the unit I suggested:



9.6 Volt Cordless, Variable Speed Rotary Tool Kit



Just my $0.02

So you think 5000 is too fast or just to be careful? Since this is about the only thing ill be using this for do you think the battery will last me long enough to do the job...and do yout hink the chicago one would work or just get the dremel?

 

[Scottwax]

Shouldn't the idiots at the body shop be taking care of this?

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

So you think 5000 is too fast or just to be careful? Since this is about the only thing ill be using this for do you think the battery will last me long enough to do the job...and do yout hink the chicago one would work or just get the dremel?

What I meant was you ideally don't want to have the tool spinning any faster than 5000 or so in most cases. Otherwise you can end up leaving the Dremel equivalent of "buffer trails" in the piece you're working on.



That Chicago one may work just fine, but I have no idea on its battery life. I do know my cordless one should be able to tackle the job.

Shouldn't the idiots at the body shop be taking care of this?

Since when do we trust body shop idiots to fix their mistakes? Footing the bill, absolutely... but fixing it themselves? They proved themselves incompetent by screwing up in the first place. :rofl

 

[Scottwax]

Since when do we trust body shop idiots to fix their mistakes? Footing the bill, absolutely... but fixing it themselves? They proved themselves incompetent by screwing up in the first place. :rofl

At the very least, the customer should make it very clear to the body shop prior to any work being done that they will be expected to foot the bill.

 

[MusicMan]

Shouldn't the idiots at the body shop be taking care of this?

What I meant was you ideally don't want to have the tool spinning any faster than 5000 or so in most cases. Otherwise you can end up leaving the Dremel equivalent of "buffer trails" in the piece you're working on.



That Chicago one may work just fine, but I have no idea on its battery life. I do know my cordless one should be able to tackle the job.







Since when do we trust body shop idiots to fix their mistakes? Footing the bill, absolutely... but fixing it themselves? They proved themselves incompetent by screwing up in the first place. :rofl

At the very least, the customer should make it very clear to the body shop prior to any work being done that they will be expected to foot the bill.

I agree with you both...i think he is done screwing around with them. The paint job was nice, but they had to do it twice because they first time they ended up w/ metallic flake in spots on the black...when it was only suppose to be metallic on the stripes (we figured they didn't clean the gun well enough after spraying the metallic and then sprayed clear...bingo...metal flake all over). They should have to foot the bill though, i agree...i know he told me he was going to let them know he is not happy about this at all. I mean seriously 1 hour of covering up the engine and the rims (rims have over spray too, $1000 a piece rims...) and then you dont have this problem

 

[CTSV]

Shouldn't the idiots at the body shop be taking care of this?

The last time I tried that, they had to respray the rear bumper 5 times, have the car a collective 30 days, oversprayed the whole car lightly one time and it took 6 months. never again. Ever.