Door Jambs (Door shuts)

togwt

togwt

The Old Grey Whistle Test
FerrariDoorJambs-2.jpg







1. Use P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimum Optiâ„¢ Clean), dilute the cleaner as necessary, using a damp micro fibre towel to go over the door jamb to remove excess grease etc.



2. Ensure all water drainage holes are clear



3. Take a Swissvax Detail Brush and ensure that you have got into the corners, just lightly brush over it a couple of times.



4. For difficult to reach areas use the Mini E-Z Detail brush with a flexible shaft



5. Rinse it off using a wet microfiber towel, and dry thoroughly



6. Use a Carnauba wax or a spray (WOWA) polymer sealant Zanio Z-8 for protection



7. Repeat this process on the other side and carry on detailing the rest of your car



8. Check the hinge / latch lubrication, renew with a clear synthetic grease (WURTH Spray Grease Synthetic Lubricant) or white Lithium grease, as necessary



9. Apply WD-40 (water displacement) to lock as this will prevent moisture, rust and or freezing



10. Apply Graphite Lubricant to the door locks, hinges and latches



11. Remove dust / dirt from the rubber sleeves and apply Iz einszett Vinyl-Rubber Care'



12. While you are doing this part of the job, also clean the area around the boot lid, hood and inside the fuel filler flap and access area.



13. Clean the water channels in the trunk as well as under the hood.



Don’t forget the door sills / kick plates; use P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimum Power Cleanâ„¢) once clean and dry, they should be protected by applying a surface dressing to vinyl surfaces and either wax or sealant protection to painted surfaces.
 
If these areas are *really* greasy..like around the hinges...I'll often use a solvent-based approach to get the worst of it off. Seems to go a lot quicker but there's also a greater risk of marring the paint.



Also, I'd give these areas at least a quick/cursory polishing. The paint is often not as smooth as it might be and that can lead to retaining dirt (which in turn retains moisture, which can lead to all sorts of issues). Guess it's another case of "how far do you want to go with this?!?"
 
Just a quick question... is paint/clear coat within the door jambs/trunk/hood thinner than paint on the outside of the car and more fragile? I'm asking because my door jambs in my Silverstone S2000 have some fine scratches within and wanted to give them a clay bar/light compound/poilsh/ and wax. Thanks!
 
TexasDJ said:
Just a quick question... is paint/clear coat within the door jambs/trunk/hood thinner than paint on the outside of the car and more fragile? I'm asking because my door jambs in my Silverstone S2000 have some fine scratches within and wanted to give them a clay bar/light compound/poilsh/ and wax. Thanks!
Click to expand...



Though I can't speak to your S2000, IME *yes* the paint there is often thinner and more fragile and on some vehicles (including some high-end ones) those areas aren't even clearcoated.



Not saying I wouldn't polish those areas in the absence of an ETG, but I'd sure be careful about it.
 
Some vehicle manufacturering assembly plants only apply one coat of the clearcoat, saves money.

Just like a number of them do not apply clearcoat to the engine compartment or trunk area

This may make it appear to have softer clearcoat in the door jam areas.



Grumpy
 
"Some vehicle manufacturering assembly plants only apply one coat of the clearcoat, saves money.

Just like a number of them do not apply clearcoat to the engine compartment or trunk area

This may make it appear to have softer clearcoat in the door jam areas."



This seems to go for hood undersides also.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top