Does Meg's 105 Finish Buffer Trail Free with Foamed Wool??

David Fermani

David Fermani

Forza Auto Salon
I did a black C6 Vette today and used Meg's 105 with a purple foamed wool pad. After this step, I power washed it (major dust), and I couldn't help to notice major buffer trails/wheelmarks/holograms throughout the finish. Does anyone get a swirl free finish after the 105/PFW combo on dark colors?
 
Well I am using M105 with wool pads (not foamed wool) and it does hologram which I expected. I didn't expect the large amount of dust though.
 
David, I'm still hit-and-miss with having 105 finish well. Sometimes it finishes so darn well it's amazing, other times I get major trails and holos. This is all with the PFW, btw.



It appears that doing a third pass before it flashes over really helps. Also making sure that you go over *exactly* the same area you went over on the first and second pass helps alot. If your second and/or third passes should overlap into an area that wasn't hit with the first pass, it really looks aweful; any area that only gets one pass really seems to look nasty.



Tricky stuff, that darn 105. I love it. :)



M95, OTOH, is just wonderful stuff if you don't mind taking the time to break it down all the way. The finish it leaves is beautiful.
 
David Fermani said:
I did a black C6 Vette today and used Meg's 105 with a purple foamed wool pad. After this step, I power washed it (major dust), and I couldn't help to notice major buffer trails/wheelmarks/holograms throughout the finish. Does anyone get a swirl free finish after the 105/PFW combo on dark colors?
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I haven't been able to......Not saying it can't be done though....



I have a black Acura and can't get the surface completely clear even using a white LC foam pad with 105. Looks great in the garage but, out in direct sunlight, still some faint trails visible. It's a two step for me, finishing them off with UF or 85RD and a black waffle.....
 
I get holos with 105 and PFW on most cars. I finish down with PO106 on a white or finish pad and it's perfect. Quick too.
 
David Fermani said:
SuperBee - What steps are you doing after going with the 105/PFW?
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For the nasty hologram/trail areas, UF on finishing wool. It's easier (for me, at least, since I'm a long time 106 user) to keep UF from slinging if I use it with the white finishing wool than foam. Plus the FW cuts/finishes as well or better than white LC foam.
 
SuperBee364 said:
David, I'm still hit-and-miss with having 105 finish well. Sometimes it finishes so darn well it's amazing, other times I get major trails and holos. This is all with the PFW, btw.



It appears that doing a third pass before it flashes over really helps. Also making sure that you go over *exactly* the same area you went over on the first and second pass helps alot. If your second and/or third passes should overlap into an area that wasn't hit with the first pass, it really looks aweful; any area that only gets one pass really seems to look nasty.



Tricky stuff, that darn 105. I love it. :)



M95, OTOH, is just wonderful stuff if you don't mind taking the time to break it down all the way. The finish it leaves is beautiful.
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SB, would you agree that 105 is great for a professional detailer where time is money so it would be worth spending the time to learn how work it just right but for the hobbyist who is primarily doing his own car with a friend or family member thrown in, they should probably go with M95 since time is not so critical for them?
 
bert31 said:
SB, would you agree that 105 is great for a professional detailer where time is money so it would be worth spending the time to learn how work it just right but for the hobbyist who is primarily doing his own car with a friend or family member thrown in, they should probably go with M95 since time is not so critical for them?
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Yeah, that sounds about right.



Although M95 can be a timesaver, too. It finishes so darn well, that what used to be a three step polish (compound, medium polish, finishing polish) can be two stepped; m95 right to po85rd on finishing foam. M105 can do it, too, if you're lucky enough to be working on a clear coat that it'll finish down cleanly on. Even if it doesn't finish cleanly, following up with UF will knock out the trails/holos and leave an almost-jeweled finish.



The new Megs compounds and 3M's UF are gonna save *everyone* alot of time.
 
bert31 said:
...[perhaps]..for the hobbyist who is primarily doing his own car with a friend or family member thrown in, they should probably go with M95 [instead of M105] since time is not so critical for them?
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Note that some people simply prefer short work times while others like the breakdown/polishing process to take a while (with things happening more gradually).



I find myself utterly :hairpull when I use stuff like OCP because I simply don't like products to take that long to break down.
 
After 105 flashing you could mist a little bit of water and do another pass at ~900 rpm until it flashes again. It helps a lot removing holograms and is a very fast process.
 
Usually, I can remove the spider swirls on most paints with 105 and a Meguiars foam polishing pad and the holograms are pretty minimal. On harder paints, like PPG Ceramiclear, the American Buffing white foamed wool pad leaves minimal holograms. It all is going to come down to paint hardness and experimentation.
 
Can you get close on harder paints? Depends who is looking at the paint I suppose, but I would guess that I think it would look really bad.



Foamed wool- To aggressive to finish down

M105- To aggressive to finish down



Maybe if it was filling...
 
No way for me, esp on harder paints. Maybe I'm still learning 105 but I've never been able to get anything nearly LSP ready using 105 or purple wool.



I was playing around with my Black Audi paint last weekend and going after a couple of bad spots with 105 and foamed wool then finished with a white LC pad and PO85RD. Did a wipedown only to find holograming left. Went back and did SIP on white and then 85RD on black LC foam and the finish is now acceptable.



More times than not when I start with 105/foamed wool I end up doing 3 stages of polishing not two. End up with great results but I'm really hoping that with more experience I'll be able to make it a true 2-step process.



Andy
 
I agree with Todd on this one. It depends on who is looking at it. Too many folks are doing the 105 and UF route and not using a median in between the two.



The paint on this car was soft, but as you will see, 105 and foamed wool leaves some pretty bad hologramming. I only worked it until its flash point (15 seconds or so). I did not experience any hardening of product in this case.



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The purpose of using 105 on this paint was for removal of the stray RIDs on the elft side. The right side is after compounding with 105.
 
We keep forgetting this M105 is a compound we cant really expect it to finish down LSP ready. 105 on soft paint it will leave halos, if you over work it, it leaves halos.



I find that when it flashes its too late, I stop right before that point. I determine that point by watching on the first few uses on car. I just did a one pass car with 105 and white LC ccs, using this method and it turned out very nice. The customer only wanted a one pass job, yet the car needed two. I tried doing 105 with PFW and that was too much. So I switched to white LC/105 and that worked very nice, did not get rid of the deep RIDS but he was unwilling to pay for a second polishing. The RIDS were even reduced with this method. The customer was impressed with the reduction and shine.



I also dream of the day we can use a polish/compound and do a one pass and have it LSP ready.......
 
SuperBee364 said:
David, I'm still hit-and-miss with having 105 finish well. .
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MotorCity said:
+1.. as for what steps I take after.. Menz 85rd on finishing pad or UF SE on finishing pad.
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Just to clarify... when I stated I had worked 105 down woth no buffer trails I did not mean I was LSP ready.... IMO as weith any compound I have used 105 needs to be finished off to really bring the paint to it's potetntial... I would prefer to use two steps after 105 (mild polishing pad followed by a finishing pad) but sometimes that is not what the customer is willing to pay for in which case I go straight to finishing
 
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