Does clay take off wax?

pontman43

pontman43

New member
Like the title says, does clay take off wax or any other protectant? I wanna clay my dads car, but he wont let me because he has a touch of class and he's affraid that it will take it off. Isn't that touch of class stuff just a sealant like any other just one that costs a grand and has a warrentee?

Thanks
 
Claying should remove most/all of the wax or sealant. (I have no idea what a "touch of class" is. Permanent paint protection or the like??)
 
Sonus ultra-fine clay says it will not remove most waxes.



"Sonus SFX Ultra Fine Detailing Clay is so fine that it will not leave microscopic scratches. It cannot be over used. In fact, Sonus SFX Ultra Fine Detailing Clay is so fine that it will not remove most waxes."
 
i just did a quick search for "touch of class". i guess dealerships offer this "guaranteed" detail(interior and exterior) for some exorbitant amount of money in the range of $700-$1500! they claim paint protection to last for 5 years with the use of ResistAll sealant. seems awfully hokey to me.
 
I feel like a broken record on this, so apologies to those who've read this before :o Also hope I don't sound like I'm ranting.



I've been claying, or at least "spot-claying," at every wash for many years, since detailing clay became commonly available in the early '90s. It does *not* remove an appreciable amount of my LSPs. Period. After a year of spot-claying the MPV, mainly behind its wheels and the frontal surfaces, yeah, the KSG was sheeting, instead of beading the way it did on the rest of the vehicle. But that was after *countless* clayings. And it still felt/looked like it had plenty of KSG on there. It's all a matter of claying gently enough to "clean the dirt off the LSP", *NOT* "claying the LSP off the paint".



I've experimented with various clays, intentionally "claying the wax off", and to do this, I had to clay far more aggressively than I would normally do, and more aggressively that I believe anyone *should* do, at least on a regular basis.



With the new Sonus clay, if you remove your LSP you're doing something *very* wrong. I had to *really* work just to (intentionally) cut through Meguiar's #5 (a very fragile glaze) with it. I've since also used it on KSG, UPP and Meg's #16 and it didn't hurt them either. But then the Sonus gray/Mother's/Griot's clay don't strip them the way I clay either ;)



If the contamination you want to remove is *under* the existing LSP, then yeah, you have to get through the LSP to remove it. You can either strip the LSP (the method *I* would use) or clay very aggressively, which might cause marring (which would require polishing, which would've done the job all by itself anyhow).



pontman43- It's a safe bet that the stuff on your dad's car *is* just another bulk-packaged sealant. You could probably get his car looking a lot better with a good clay/polish/LSP routine. But I know how father's can be about stuff like this ;) Maybe you oughta do some other car first and show him what a great job you can do. Or you could just wait until the Touch of Class starts to fail and then say (*nicely*) that you told him so and offer to fix it up for him. Heh heh, that's what I did, but then I was stuck doing the family cars from then on.
 
Thanks for all the replies, I'll make him buy the Sonus Ultra-fine clay.

Also the touch of class is just resist all, the retards at the dealer left the stuff in my mom's car (03 accord w/touch of class). All it is, is a wax, not anything else (I think, that is what it seams like when I used it). My dad knew this and still got it on his car when he bought it! I think it was mainly because he works at a steel mill and there is a lot of crap that gets dumped on his car, so if it damages his paint he can just take it to Honda. He is all worried about voiding the warrentee, like they would even know.
 
Accumulator said:
I feel like a broken record on this, so apologies to those who've read this before :o Also hope I don't sound like I'm ranting.



I've been claying, or at least "spot-claying," at every wash for many years, since detailing clay became commonly available in the early '90s. It does *not* remove an appreciable amount of my LSPs. Period. After a year of spot-claying the MPV, mainly behind its wheels and the frontal surfaces, yeah, the KSG was sheeting, instead of beading the way it did on the rest of the vehicle. But that was after *countless* clayings. And it still felt/looked like it had plenty of KSG on there. It's all a matter of claying gently enough to "clean the dirt off the LSP", *NOT* "claying the LSP off the paint".



I've experimented with various clays, intentionally "claying the wax off", and to do this, I had to clay far more aggressively than I would normally do, and more aggressively that I believe anyone *should* do, at least on a regular basis.



With the new Sonus clay, if you remove your LSP you're doing something *very* wrong. I had to *really* work just to (intentionally) cut through Meguiar's #5 (a very fragile glaze) with it. I've since also used it on KSG, UPP and Meg's #16 and it didn't hurt them either. But then the Sonus gray/Mother's/Griot's clay don't strip them the way I clay either ;)



If the contamination you want to remove is *under* the existing LSP, then yeah, you have to get through the LSP to remove it. You can either strip the LSP (the method *I* would use) or clay very aggressively, which might cause marring (which would require polishing, which would've done the job all by itself anyhow).



pontman43- It's a safe bet that the stuff on your dad's car *is* just another bulk-packaged sealant. You could probably get his car looking a lot better with a good clay/polish/LSP routine. But I know how father's can be about stuff like this ;) Maybe you oughta do some other car first and show him what a great job you can do. Or you could just wait until the Touch of Class starts to fail and then say (*nicely*) that you told him so and offer to fix it up for him. Heh heh, that's what I did, but then I was stuck doing the family cars from then on.
Click to expand...



Thanks for all the info this helps a lot.

As for doing another car, I did, my mom's, the same as my dad's just black. All I could ever talk him into is using the same resist all stuff. I really have to get him on this site. :D
 
Pontman43 said:
...He is all worried about voiding the warrentee...
Click to expand...
You may want to dig out a copy of the paperwork (since that's all the "product" is, paperwork) and read it. At least one of A.T.O.C.'s competitors does tell you in the instructions that it must be "renewed" regularly (oh yeah, that's sooo much different than regular wax) and by the dealer at that (cha-ching!). If A.T.O.C is the same the warranty may already be void.





PC.
 
I have worked for several dealerships, and Touch of Class was nothing more than Blue Coral Seal-Tek Sealant. It cost $20 per gallon. We could charge up to $1000 for it but really it is nothing more than a very cheap sealant that was applied by a high school dropout. Trust me! Those TOC detailers are so horrible at what they do it is rediculous. I mean think about it, anything on a new car is going to look good. I got a little bit of that Seal-Tek and tried it out on several cars on the lot. It looked glossy for about a week until the lot washers came and washed it all off. Blue Coral has some of the worst products I have ever used. Unfortunately though, their products are sweeping across dealerships for their cost and marketing ploys.



Just remember, there is no such thing as a sealant that will last 5 years. Let alone over 6 months lol (maybe Zaino). If you don't believe that, your finance guy is about to be $800 richer.
 
COBRyan said:
If you don't believe that, your finance guy is about to be $800 richer.
Click to expand...



Man, I would have loved that stuff back in my F & I days. All I had to sell was extended warrantys @ a $500.00 mark-up. And that was in the late 70's & early 80's!



But, those car lot days are long gone. :spot



BOB

Reformed F & I Guy.
 
F150BOB said:
Man, I would have loved that stuff back in my F & I days. All I had to sell was extended warrantys @ a $500.00 mark-up. And that was in the late 70's & early 80's!



But, those car lot days are long gone. :spot



BOB

Reformed F & I Guy.
Click to expand...



Yeah, the F&I guys make almost as much as the desk guys do these days. Between extended warranties, LoJack, GAP, Touch of Class, and dealer installed alarms they can make a lot of money on just one deal. Most of the markup goes into the FI guy's pocket!
 
COBRyan said:
I have worked for several dealerships, and Touch of Class was nothing more than Blue Coral Seal-Tek Sealant. It cost $20 per gallon. We could charge up to $1000 for it but really it is nothing more than a very cheap sealant that was applied by a high school dropout. Trust me! Those TOC detailers are so horrible at what they do it is rediculous. I mean think about it, anything on a new car is going to look good. I got a little bit of that Seal-Tek and tried it out on several cars on the lot. It looked glossy for about a week until the lot washers came and washed it all off. Blue Coral has some of the worst products I have ever used. Unfortunately though, their products are sweeping across dealerships for their cost and marketing ploys.



Just remember, there is no such thing as a sealant that will last 5 years. Let alone over 6 months lol (maybe Zaino). If you don't believe that, your finance guy is about to be $800 richer.
Click to expand...

Trust me I know, even before I was on this site. It is all my dad, he refuses to believe me! Sometimes he really pisses me off, like paying a grand for a sealant. For the sake he taught me most of the detailing I know, he just doesn't get some things. I'm really going to have to show him this. Oh and a touch of class was actually ResistAll, I know this because like you said the retards that put it on accidentally left some in my mom's car, which is the same as my dads and bought a year ealier. So my dad knew it wasn't anything special but he still bought it! I guess it was just the warrentee part.
 
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