Do you have 9003/H4 bulbs and are too cheap to buy real HIDs?

MattZ28 said:
I upgraded my bulbs as well. My stock harnesses can handle ~120 watts. I upgraded to 80/100. Here's a before and after of the low beams...yes, I know the car is in a very non-Autopian state in the "before" pic. I didn't have a garage spot back then!



16070headlightsbeforeafter.jpg






BTW, I've been running this setup since Christmas of '03 without any problems whatsoever.

Matt,



What kind of bulbs did you upgrade to, and where did you get them? My car has a yellow-ish light too, and I wanted something brighter. It's hard to see at night even. How do I know what kind of bulb I should get and what size or wattage and whatnot. It's for a 99' Dodge Neon.
 
Here's the list I got:



High & low beam headlamp

9007

9007ST Silverstar High Performance Halogen Upgrade: The Look of HID: Whitest, Brightest

9007XV XtraVision Halogen Upgrade: Up to 20% Brighter

9007CB Cool Blue Halogen Upgrade: White Hot; Super Cool; 100% Street Legal

9007LL Long Life Halogen Upgrade: Lasts 3x longer




I'm guessing that the lights get more expensive as you go down the list, right? So should I be looking for the 9007ST Silverstar lights? Also, any guides or tips to replacing the lights and installing in the new ones? I've replaced my brake lights before, but never the headlamps.
 
Well, it depends on your priority. Do you want white (close to HID white), or do you want brighter lights? If you want the HID look white, then Silverstars will be your choice. If you want brighter lights that look like normal color temperature, then Xtravision will be for you.



Replacing headlights really depend on your vehicle. Your owner's manual will tell you everything. Just one tip, don't tough the glass part of the bulb because the oil on your fingers will severely shorten the life of the bulb.
 
im currently using Nokya artic whites and some eurolite yellow bulb for my drl, check oubt koba bulbs on ebay also they have a white with a hint of blue color



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MikeWinLDS said:
Here's the list I got:



High & low beam headlamp

9007

9007ST Silverstar High Performance Halogen Upgrade: The Look of HID: Whitest, Brightest

9007XV XtraVision Halogen Upgrade: Up to 20% Brighter

9007CB Cool Blue Halogen Upgrade: White Hot; Super Cool; 100% Street Legal

9007LL Long Life Halogen Upgrade: Lasts 3x longer




I'm guessing that the lights get more expensive as you go down the list, right? So should I be looking for the 9007ST Silverstar lights? Also, any guides or tips to replacing the lights and installing in the new ones? I've replaced my brake lights before, but never the headlamps.



I think you can get the OSRAM Silverstars in 9007s which are brighter than the version you can buy here.
 
If anyone is interested....Advance Auto Stores have Sylvania bulbs (Silverstar, Cool Blue, Xtravision) 2-packs for $29.99 and single packs buy one get one half price PLUS you get a $5 rebate. But the sale ends Nov. 27.
 
Sylvania Silverstars are OSRAM Silverstars, but with a blue tint to create a whiter appearance. The tint cuts the light output from a +50% on the OSRAMs to about +20% on the Sylvanias. The Sylvanias' colour temperature is about 4000 degrees Kelvin.



The OSRAM Silverstars are equivalent to the Philips VisionPlus -- both produce 50% more light than a regular bulb of the same type. This is considered ultra high efficiency. Slight variations in filament design mean the OSRAM is better than the Philips at middle distance -- but it's the reflector, not the bulb, which has the biggest influence on beam pattern.



The Cool Blue are regular OSRAM/Sylvania bulbs, with a blue tint. They offer less light than a regular bulb, but cost more because people are dumb enough to value a blue tint over better performance. They only barely produce enough lumens to be legal. They run a colour temperature of about 3800K.



The XtraVision are a +20-30% bulb, but have the standard colour temperature of about 3200K. These are high efficiency bulbs, like the Philips Premium.



And if any company promises 85W=55W or something similar, don't walk, RUN. Blue tints cannot make a bulb more powerful. The bulbs with that mystical equation trade whiter for weaker.



Bottom line: blue tints cut light output. "Whiter" bulbs are dimmer than clear bulbs of the same design. You want white, get Philips or OSRAM/Sylvania, and get the high or ultra-high efficiency bulbs. You get whiter and stronger light -- but you pay a heavy price in hours. The Sylvania Silverstars and Philips Vision Plus are better than stock in colour and light output, but last only a third as long.
 
Excellent 1st post Galcobar. Are you in the lighting industry?



For anyone who may want it I have a code to get you 10% off any order to Powerbulbs. Use voucher code VTNXS221. Offer valid until 1/1/05.
 
Here's a little bit of headlight bulbs 101:



"White" light has a temp rating of about 5000K. Lights that are significantly lower than this produce yellowish light and lights that are significantly higher than this produce blueish to purpleish light. Halogen light bulbs don't put out "white" light in their native state. They produce light at about 3000-3200K typically. It is possible to put a filter on a halogen bulb, and cause them to produce white light. This is why "white" halogens have a blue looking filter on the end of them.



FnDocIdDisplay.asp




Doing this ALWAYS cuts down the actual light output. Filters never increase light output, they always reduce light output. Bulb manufacturers deal with this limitation in a few ways, all of which have significant tradeoffs.



1) They can increase the wattage, but this causes the bulbs to not be street legal. This is why some bulbs are labeled for off-road use only (PIAA labels all their bulbs this way even though some of them don't have increased wattage). Increasing wattage also carries the risk of damaging the lamp and/or damaging the vehicles wiring.



2) They can overdrive the filament. This causes the filament to burn hotter which increases light output at the expense of greatly reducing the life of the bulb. For instance, 9006 Sylvania Silverstars have a rated life of just 150 hours. Sylvania 9006LL bulbs have a rated life which is 10 times greater.



3) They keep the same wattage and filament. This overcomes the tradeoffs in 1 and 2, but the light output is greatly reduced because there is no compensation for the filter.



Anyone who tries to claim their bulbs run at the street legal wattage, burn white, produce more light, and last as long as standard bulbs is full of crap. There is no free ride with halogen bulbs. Many white halogens (including Silverstars) don't increase actual light intensity. They adversize their bulbs are "brighter" but this is highly subjective and impossible to prove. They do not advertise thier bulbs are more intense because this would be false and fraudulent.



Personally I run the Sylvania XtraVision bulbs. They burn the same color as standard bulbs, however they overdrive the filament slightly to produce more light. This reduces the rated life to 850 hours, but this is not bad if you consider the standard Sylvania 9006 bulb is rated at 1,000 hours. OSRAM doesn't make the European Silverstars (which don't have a filter) in the 9006s, however the XtraVision bulbs are almost as good.



HID upgrades are the only way to significantly increase light output in a way that doesn't sacrifice bulb life or risk damaging your vehicle. HID bulbs produce light by arcing electricity between two points. They have no filaments. This is why they need balasts so the voltage can be kicked up to very high levels capable of producing arcs. However HID upgrade kits are not worth doing on some vehicles. The reason is because the focal point for HID bulbs is not the same as halogen bulbs. Due to the optics in some lamps, HID bulbs can actually degrade lamp performance vs halogen. IMO the only worthwhile HIDs are those which have projector lamps such as the ones in BMWs vehicles as well as many others. The bulbs are only part of the picture. The optics of the lamp is the rest of it, and can ultimately make the most difference when paired with a good HID bulb.
 
Pondscum said:
Here's a little bit of headlight bulbs 101:



HID upgrades are the only way to significantly increase light output in a way that doesn't sacrifice bulb life or risk damaging your vehicle. HID bulbs produce light by arcing electricity between two points. They have no filaments. This is why they need balasts so the voltage can be kicked up to very high levels capable of producing arcs. However HID upgrade kits are not worth doing on some vehicles. The reason is because the focal point for HID bulbs is not the same as halogen bulbs. Due to the optics in some lamps, HID bulbs can actually degrade lamp performance vs halogen. IMO the only worthwhile HIDs are those which have projector lamps such as the ones in BMWs vehicles as well as many others. The bulbs are only part of the picture. The optics of the lamp is the rest of it, and can ultimately make the most difference when paired with a good HID bulb.



Great post. I run the Silverstars in my Honda Civic. Always wondered why the light wasn't significantly brighter than stock. The light does look whiter, but when compared to HIDs, it still has a yellow look to it. I had a G35 which has the HIDs and the halogen fog lights right next to each other so you could see the difference. I also agree about the BMWs HIDs. My 325 has projector HIDs which work great. The extra $$ was well worth it for the HIDs.
 
ben54 said:
Great post. I run the Silverstars in my Honda Civic. Always wondered why the light wasn't significantly brighter than stock. The light does look whiter, but when compared to HIDs, it still has a yellow look to it. I had a G35 which has the HIDs and the halogen fog lights right next to each other so you could see the difference. I also agree about the BMWs HIDs. My 325 has projector HIDs which work great. The extra $$ was well worth it for the HIDs.



The temp on Silverstars is 4000K. When compared to regular halogens, they look white, but when compared with a true white 5000K light, they look yellow. HID projectors are well worth it.
 
ExplEddieBauer said:
Autoeng, I command you for reading the owner's manual because not many do. :)



But here's the link to Sylvania's website reguarding your Pathfinder. I hope this helps.



http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/LampReplacementGuide/

Thanks for posting that site, I've made it a favorite. Now I know exactly what bulbs to buy for my '04 Grand Marquis.



:( :confused: :angry :grrr These smilies say it all for me. I remember the day when all you had to do was remember high beams or low beams, and which screws to unscrew when changing headlight bulbs. They were of one shape and one shape only: round! Sigh...



Charles
 
I suppose I could Google for the answer, but what, exactly, are HID lights? As I said in my previous post, I am still trying to get over the old round headlights! Too much technology...



Charles:eek:
 
crobinso said:
I suppose I could Google for the answer, but what, exactly, are HID lights? As I said in my previous post, I am still trying to get over the old round headlights! Too much technology...



Charles:eek:



High Intensity Discharge lighting. When you're on the road and you see a vehicle with real bright white light, that would be it.
 
Standard bulbs use electricity to heat up a filament to a certain temperature, creating light.



Bulbs are usually described by the type of gas surrounding the filament, inside the glass bulb. For cars, it's halogen gas. Higher-end halogen bulbs have some xenon gas in them as well to increase efficiency and make the filament last longer or burn brighter.



HIDs have no filament. Instead, they use extremely high voltage to cause a spark to jump between two electrodes. The gas inside an HID lamp acts like the filament, translating that electricity into light. Because of the properties of xenon gas and the high temperature created by igniting it (not really an accurate term but close enough) the light produced is much bluer than a halogen bulb's.



We perceive that light as being whiter -- though white is actually all wavelengths and technically halogen bulbs produce white light too.



HIDs last much longer than halogen bulbs because xenon gas returns to its prior state after the lamp is turned off, where filaments actually burn away and eventually break. HIDs are also a lot more power efficient, usually requiring half the watts to produce the same amount of lumens (unit measuring actual light output).



Those blue tints you see on some halogen bulbs, which low-end manufacturers try to sell as xenon bulbs, is an attempt to shift the colour up to look like HIDs. Trouble is, that tint cuts the amount of real light output.



One other problem, with tinted bulbs and HIDs -- the human eye does not see blue light well at night because it's using a different set of sensors than when in full illumination. Depth perception is particularly affected. On top of that, blue light is more easily scattered by water than yellow (why the sky is blue but the sun's light reaches the ground as yellow), so a bluer headlight won't work as well in rain or fog.



And you can thank supercomputers for the invention of complicated shape headlights -- allowed engineers to calculate the angles in a weird-shaped housing to reflect the light properly. Truth be told, a parabolic reflector (round) is still the best.
 
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