do I really need a waffle weave towel?

Bill D said:
DI stands for deionized water. CRS refers to CR Spotless system
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You know, I don't know if anyone has tested the idea, but a well sealed car (3 or more layers) would a nice top notch wash mitt and WW towel still slightly marr the paint, or is the sealant thick enough that the fabric doesn't actually touch the paint?
 
Guitarist302008 said:
You know, I don't know if anyone has tested the idea, but a well sealed car (3 or more layers) would a nice top notch wash mitt and WW towel still slightly marr the paint, or is the sealant thick enough that the fabric doesn't actually touch the paint?
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I know Accumulator has reported successful marring prevention with several layers of Klasse SG.



I think it's best to get the highest quality mitt and WW MF you can spring for to more or less eliminate the possibility of their marring the paint on their own right from the start. That way, all you would have to worry about is having a good washing technique to prevent marring the paint by dragging dirt ( dirt induced marring) across the finish, which would mar the paint if it were well sealed or not.



I'm wondering how Opti Seal and Cquartz fare in the area of marring prevention since they are the first real LSPs that are coatings, coating the actual paint off from the environment where contamination and dirt settle. Maybe folks who have used one of these can chime in here...
 
Bill D said:
I know Accumulator has reported successful marring prevention with several layers of Klasse SG.



I think it's best to get the highest quality mitt and WW MF you can spring for to more or less eliminate the possibility of their marring the paint on their own right from the start. That way, all you would have to worry about is having a good washing technique to prevent marring the paint by dragging dirt ( dirt induced marring) across the finish, which would mar the paint if it were well sealed or not.



I'm wondering how Opti Seal and Cquartz fare in the area of marring prevention since they are the first real LSPs that are coatings, coating the actual paint off from the environment where contamination and dirt settle. Maybe folks who have used one of these can chime in here...
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A few guys on the 370z forum have had their cars done with the opti-coat... 1 guy was very happy with his... one didn't seem as happy with it... I would try it I think if I had a darker color that would show more imperfections.
 
Kolokefalo said:
Those prices for a DI system are a bit high especially when you can get a RO system from buckeye field supply for 1/2 that price.



http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=163&Sub=103
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I agree it's more a luxury than a practical tool. I got my CRS through Costco. You're getting a hose, attachments, and nozzle in a convenient package and the roller the canisters are attached to. I wouldn't buy extra resin from CRS, I'd shop around and you could get it cheaper.
 
Guitarist302008 said:
You know, I don't know if anyone has tested the idea, but a well sealed car (3 or more layers) would a nice top notch wash mitt and WW towel still slightly marr the paint, or is the sealant thick enough that the fabric doesn't actually touch the paint?
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....even if a product is providing an additional layer of protection on the paint, it is likely still vulnerable to some level marring as well. I can see scratch “resistance” but not scratch “proof” as being a possibility. The paint may be protected but you’ll still have the potential of introducing blemishes to the finish.
 
Kolokefalo said:
Those prices for a DI system are a bit high especially when you can get a RO system from buckeye field supply for 1/2 that price.



http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=163&Sub=103
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From what I understand, RO systems produce “waste” water. In other words, you don’t get 1 gallon of purified water for every gallon used. Also, I don’t know of a compact system that can deliver filtered water in the volume needed to be effective in this application. The unit you linked to is no different (pull up the specs/information). With the CRS DIC-20 (like I have), you can run up to 4 GPM through those filters which is more than enough (with no waste water).
 
Guitarist302008 said:
You know, I don't know if anyone has tested the idea, but a well sealed car (3 or more layers) would a nice top notch wash mitt and WW towel still slightly marr the paint, or is the sealant thick enough that the fabric doesn't actually touch the paint?
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As Bill D mentioned, I've had some degree of marring resistance from multiple (i.e., six) layers of KSG. And the recently developed coatings (e.g., OptiCoat) can provide that too.



It's generally not a matter of something "not touching the paint" through the LSP; the marring happens despite the LSP being there between the paint and the cause of the marring...like if you put a plastic sheet over a piece of wood and then rub something against the sheet- if you do it aggressively enough the underlying wood will show scratches/etc. even though you didn't penetrate the plastic.



But it's not the fabric, the wash/dry media, touching the paint that causes marring, or at least it shouldn't be (don't touch the paint with anything that's so abrasive as to cause marring). The marring almost always comes from dirt getting pressed against the paint and then moved under that pressure. Hence my "dislodge and flush" approach to washing.
 
Bill D said:
I wouldn't buy extra resin from CRS, I'd shop around and you could get it cheaper.
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Last time I needed some, the cheapest I found *was* directly from CRS. Not that I spent a whole day looking or anything, but their big cannister was the best bargain I could come up with in a reasonable amount of time.



Kean said:
From what I understand, RO systems produce “waste” water. In other words, you don’t get 1 gallon of purified water for every gallon used. Also, I don’t know of a compact system that can deliver filtered water in the volume needed to be effective in this application.
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My home RO system sure does wast a *LOT* of water, and yeah, I think it'd take quite a system to provide sufficient volume for this sort of thing. The ones I saw at Buckeyefieldsupply, which resemble my RO unit, don't look up to the job.
 
Accumulator said:
Last time I needed some, the cheapest I found *was* directly from CRS. Not that I spent a whole day looking or anything, but their big cannister was the best bargain I could come up with in a reasonable amount of time.
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....Windows101 started carrying the cu ft bags of Tulsion resin again and I picked up some a couple of months ago. I believe its $115 and my cost (shipped) was around $140. I noticed they also started carrying the components for building a DI system.
 
....here's a link to the Thermax/Tulsion resin (cu. ft. bag) I mentioned. It looks like it is the price I remembered ($115):



Windows101



I like buying in bulk size since it tends to be cheaper.
 
I find waffle weave towels excellent for cleaning windows and all but useless for drying a painted vehicle surface. A leaf blower and a standard microfiber towel work best for me without marking things up.
 
RTexasF said:
I find waffle weave towels excellent for cleaning windows and all but useless for drying a painted vehicle surface. A leaf blower and a standard microfiber towel work best for me without marking things up.
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For some reason, I have a terrible time getting that last half-a-percent of water off with regular MF towels. But my WWs (until they "go bad") get it all like magic.
 
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