Do I need a PC polisher for this? or Can I do it by hand?

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bigmike667

New member
Alright guys,



I want my car shinin! What do you recommend? And do I need a PC?



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If you get up close, there are some swirl marks and very fine scratches. Do I need a PC polisher or can I accomplish this by hand?

I was thinking of using the Pinnacle Sizzling shine kit? Is this a good choice? Or what products do you recommend (if I can do it by hand)?



Thanks, Mike
 
bigmike667 said:
Alright guys,



I want my car shinin! What do you recommend? And do I need a PC?
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Welcome to Autopia!



I would recommend the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital. I myself prefer smaller pads with it, but you'll probably be OK with 6" ones. The PC is *barely* capable of this stuff, better than nothing, but not in the same league as better machines. And yeah, it's enough of a diff to really matter; get the Griot's.



While this stuff *can* be done by hand (and some areas like behind the door handles must be), I doubt you want to spend many hours per panel doing it that way. You'll spend quite a few hours doing it even with the best polisher. Once you spend an afternoon doing the fingernail scratches behind those door handles, you'll really appreciate the polisher ;)



I was thinking of using the Pinnacle Sizzling shine kit? Is this a good choice? Or what products do you recommend (if I can do it by hand)?
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By hand I don't think you'll really remove the marring, but you can probably hide it temporarily. For that you could try Meguiar's M09 Swirlmark Remover (it doesn't really "remove" it just hides) topped with their NXT wax. You'd have to redo this about every month or so.



By machine I'd recommend something other than the Pinnacle kit, but I'm not sure what as I'm not familiar with today's Cadillac paint. Probably....oh....Optimum Hyper Compound followed by their Hyper Polish. Or the UNO system which uses one product with different pads.



On that paint, I'd be using Finish Kare's FK1000P for the LSP ("Last Step Product", i.e., "wax").



BTW, IMO the #1 thing is to sort out your wash regimen so you don't just swirl it up again. Almost all the marring happens during the wash, and avoiding that is infinitely harder than most people could ever imagine. Even if you don't mind spending forever polishing it, you can only take off so much clearcoat before you have problems, so not scratching it in the first place is best...easier said than done though.
 
I agree with Accumulator on all aspects. Aside from spending all afternoon polishing by hand and getting "ok" results, you will get a much better result with less effort using something like a Porter Cable 7424XP. There are so many polishes out there that will accomplish your desired results. The best thing about a machine, other than not spending all day polishing, you will not spend all night rubbing BioFreeze on your shoulders and arms.
 
Thanks guys for the reply. Thats the PC I was looking at.



But what pads are recommended? Also, How loud is that polisher? (Loud enough for neighbours to complain?)
 
bigmike667 said:
Thanks guys for the reply. Thats the PC I was looking at.



But what pads are recommended? Also, How loud is that polisher? (Loud enough for neighbours to complain?)
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Well, possibilities are endless. For most polishes and finishes, the LC pads are what I use. However, with the new Megs MF system, the MF pads are a must. There are times and circumstances where purple foamed wool (PFW) works very well, also.



The polisher is not very loud, in my opinion.
 
bigmike667- Not to beat you over the head with this, but I'd give some serious thought to the Griot's before you buy the XP. I don't think of these polishers as "loud", but it's hard to say what your neighbors will think :nixweiss I would't *expect* it to be a problem though and it's not like you'll be using it all that often.



"Which pads?" is a tricky question just because we don't know what products you're gonna use. Some systems (e.g., UNO) use one product and different pads, others (e.g., Griot's Garage) use one pad and different products, most use different products *and* pads.



Eh, we could over-complicate this stuff to where you just say "forget it!" and I don't want to do that. I think you oughta get a medium-strength abrasive (Optimum Hyper Compound, "OHC", it's milder than it sounds) for use on an orange light-cutting pad (get several), some Optimum Hyper Polish for use on a polishing pad (again, get several), an all-in-one (e.g., Zaino AIO or Klasse AIO) for use on a polishing pad, and a good LSP (e.g., FK1000P).



That will pretty much cover all the bases for the exterior of the car (with the exception of some tire dressing).
 
Before reading some of the comments.



I purchased Autoglym super resin polish. Have you heard of that.

Now I did it by hand, and it came out pretty good.

However, I may have messed up by adding meguiars carnuaba wax after it.

It was better without the wax, it said the polish has a sealant in it too, which is why I think it wasn't good with the wax.

Has anyone heard of that product.



It turned out quite good before applying the wax though.
 
In terms of neighbors complaining? Not sure, never had one complain. People can carry on a conversation just a few feet away from me polishing with my older, louder original PC. But I ALWAYS wear earplugs.
 
bigmike667 said:
Before reading some of the comments.



I purchased Autoglym super resin polish. Have you heard of that.

Now I did it by hand, and it came out pretty good.

However, I may have messed up by adding meguiars carnuaba wax after it.

It was better without the wax, it said the polish has a sealant in it too, which is why I think it wasn't good with the wax.

Has anyone heard of that product.



It turned out quite good before applying the wax though.
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Ah, yeah...I really, *REALLY* like SRP! Good choice!



Noting that it didn't really *remove* any of the marring, merely concealed it, that's OK in my book. SRP cleans the paint, hides the swirls/etc. and leaves a little protection behind (though not as much as you might think).



Topping it can be just a little tricky, as you found out. I like topping SRP with certain waxes/sealants, but not others. Guess you tried one of those "others". I've been happy topping it with Collinite (both 845 and 476S) and Souveran (just a beauty wax, I use that SRP/Souveran combo on my Jag), and also with that FK1000P paste sealant I keep trying to talk you into.



You can just SRP it again and it oughta clean off the Meguiar's wax. Or wait until the next regular wash and do it then. IF you can, wait until the next day and give it another *VERY GENTLE* application of SRP, but I really mean "very gentle". The idea is to build up a little more of it, but you gotta watch or it'll just clean off the previous application. Still, if you do it right there'll be a little benefit.



Between now and then, give some though to what you'd like to top it with. Maybe your local autobody/paint supply store might have some Collinite wax. That SRP + Collinite combo is probably my #1 fave for friends-and-family details.



Or don't top it at all, but then you'll have to reapply pretty frequently.
 
Thanks, I'm gonna redo it another day, toooo hot today. Maybe get some Autoglym wax later then.

How do you recommend cleaning the glass? I got Stoners Invisible glass, but In certain angles, it still looks unclean (you can still see the wiper marks)?



Thanks Guys! Mike
 
bigmike667 said:
Thanks, I'm gonna redo it another day, toooo hot today. Maybe get some Autoglym wax later then...
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Some people *really* like their High Definition Wax.

How do you recommend cleaning the glass? I got Stoners Invisible glass, but In certain angles, it still looks unclean (you can still see the wiper marks)?
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Maybe clay will help. Or using a Glass Polish (another thing that's easiest with a polisher). But some marks in glass are forever. Opinions differ with regard to what cloths/towels/whatever to use; I prefer the Polypropylene Window Wipes from Griot's Garage (pn 14910) and they have clay and polishes that are made just for use on glass too.
 
I don't have a ton of experience with different glass polishes, but my go-to is Zaino Z12. Seems like a non-diminishing abrasive and on a 4" pad with the PC, a little squirt of the stuff just goes and goes. Takes off all kinds of grime and water spots. Never had much luck with clay on glass.
 
Take it from someone who polished cars by hand for the first 10 years I owned my detailing business. Yes, you need a quality polisher. You absolutely cannot polish the paint as deeply and evenly by hand as you can by machine. Maybe 15 years ago you could polish out scratches and swirls on the softer paints back then but not anymore.
 
I can get the souveran wax.

Will this one wipe of the Autoglym polish/sealant.



Maybe I was having a hard time because I also used the wax paste instead of liquid?
 
bigmike667 said:
I can get the souveran wax. Will this one wipe of the Autoglym polish/sealant.Maybe I was having a hard time because I also used the wax paste instead of liquid?
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You should be able to use the Souveran Wax without removing the sealant. The souveran is an easy on easy off application.
 
bigmike667 said:
I can get the souveran wax.

Will this one wipe of the Autoglym polish/sealant.



Maybe I was having a hard time because I also used the wax paste instead of liquid?
Click to expand...



Souveran has never messed with SRP for me, BUT...Souveran is strictly a beauty wax and doesn't last long at all. Attracts/retains dust too. Honestly, I'd skip it for your application unless you really want to rewax after every other wash.



I'd top the SRP with either Autoglyms Hi Def wax or something from Collinite.



I wouldn't expect the liquid/paste to make any real difference. It's really just the nature of the specific product that counts, not which type of wax it is.
 
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