Do I have to wash the car after applying AG SRP and waiting 24 hours to put on AGHD?

Z

Z06Seal

New member
I just got some AG HD for sale at walmart for 20 bucks, and going to pepboys now to pick up some AG SRP to put on as a 1st coat after clay barring the car...



after I clay bar and put the SRP on, I'm supposed to wait 24 hours according to this thread. well when I do wait 20 hours (might be closer to 20 hours actually for me lol) do I need to wash the car again? or can I take some QD and spray it on there to wipe off dust that accumulated on the 24 hours...



I'm not sure if QD would be a good idea since I'll be putting on a layer of polymers from teh QD spray which might make it hard for the AGHD wax/polymers to bond to the SRP underneath it, so I guess I'll have to wash again?



FYI, I don't have a garage, so the car WILL be sitting outside for the 24 hour cure process. I don't have a choice.



I will wash the car with blue dawn before clay bar, but after that I will be using turtle wax car wash. if you can reccomend another OTC car wash, I'll take it. but I think this turtle wax works pretty good. I have amazing things about that turtle wax ICE car wash as well though.



This is the car wash soap I'll be using once the car has been SRP'd and following car washes with the AGHD on it in the future.

7510010_ttl_t143_pri_detl.jpg
 
Z06Seal- The trick with washing will be to clean the car without stripping off the SRP (which isn't too durable by itself). The trick with QDing will be more a matter of not instilling marring. I wouldn't worry too much about the QD leaving something behind, that's seldom a significant issue in cases like this.



I can't help but wonder how it'd go if you did the SRP, waited a few hours, and went ahead and applied the wax over the presumably uncured SRP :think:



As for shampoos, the usual OTC answer is Meguiar's Gold Class, unless some place near you sells DuraGloss. I wouldn't underestimate the benefits of a good shampoo; I find it downright critical for washing without instilling new marring (not as critical as good wash technique though ;) ).
 
walmart is going to hate me. I bought swirl X, and just returned it. came back with turtle wax ICE wash. now I'm gonna go back, return it and get duragloss wash from NAPA. before I know it, there will be something else I should get and then return LOL :D



Hmm, I'm thinking now.



how about I wake up nice and early in the morning on friday, do the whole process around 7am. by 9, I should have a coat of SRP on the car.



then I can wait until 5pm or so and then put on a coat of AGHD. that's 8 hours of cure time during daytime.



if I do the SRP now, I'll have to wait until tomorrow morning do to the AGHD. it'll be too dark by then.



ahhh how I wish I had a garage now :mad2:
 
Z06Seal- I think I like that marathon-session-on-Friday idea. But note that everything takes longer than you expect ;)



Oh, and while it's easy for me to waste *your* money, I'd just save that TW shampoo for use on non-critical areas like wheelwells and the undercarriage; that's how I use up my also-ran shampoos. I men, how much $ do you have it it? Really worth taking it back? Heh heh, between gas and my time it wouldn't be worth it for me, but that's just me.
 
I just want to get this started! lol



alright, I'll do this tomorrow early morning, and then I have a bunch of errands to do during the day. while I'm doing that, the SRP will bond and cure best as it can. by around 5, I should be done, and I'll throw on a coat of AGHD.



the SRP will just have to hurry up and cure best as it can. it'll have 10 hours to cure. depending on how tired my arms are (and maybe the gf will be willing to help) I might do the ice water technique. that def does sound messy. (water and wax!? WHAT!?)



you're right, it is only 4 bucks. (TW wash)



I actually meant the TW Ice wash which pretty much cost as much as the gold class.
 
I was trained by a Chap called Aidie Potts and he's the Chief Trainer for Autoglym UK and looks after jamiroquai Front Man Jay Kay Ferrari Enzo, You don't need to wait till the following day to apply HD WAX after SRP, There's no reason why it cant be applied straight after, However make sure you allow the HD to Cure as it can leave some oils behind if you don't that tend to look like smudges on the paint.



Michael
 
I just topped any wax/sealant (including 3 pots of HD wax) immediately after buffing SRP. Doesn't seems like having any problem. Interesting that you mentioned about the smudges. When you say allow the HD to cure, you mean leave it on long enough on the paintwork before buffing? I always encounter smudges with HD, as much as once every 4 cars. I had no choice but to give up this great wax and change to another lsp just because I worry customer will think I screw up their paint when they see smudges.
 
Polishing Booth said:
I was trained by a Chap called Aidie Potts and he's the Chief Trainer for Autoglym UK and looks after jamiroquai Front Man Jay Kay Ferrari Enzo, You don't need to wait till the following day to apply HD WAX after SRP, There's no reason why it cant be applied straight after..
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Welcome to Autopia!



Hey, that's neat..your getting trained by the guy from Autoglym UK. Good to know about it being OK to immediately top SRP. I never *noticed* any issues from doing it, but it's still good to have the "official word" on the subject.



Those "smudges" sound like the blooming you can get from some LSPs...Vintage/etc. come to mind and that's one reason why I've shied away from those products.
 
The smudges are dead easy to remove just spray Quick Detailer and wipe with a MF Cloth, The're annoying more than anything else and show easily on Black!
 
dschia said:
I just topped any wax/sealant (including 3 pots of HD wax) immediately after buffing SRP. Doesn't seems like having any problem. Interesting that you mentioned about the smudges. When you say allow the HD to cure, you mean leave it on long enough on the paintwork before buffing? I always encounter smudges with HD, as much as once every 4 cars. I had no choice but to give up this great wax and change to another lsp just because I worry customer will think I screw up their paint when they see smudges.
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DS, I think you're probably applying AG HD wax under high humidity, tropical weather???
 
Bingo. In Singapore we have 4 season as well; hot, hotter, wet, wetter. I tried all means I could to remove the smudge including QD, IPA but none works. Even SRP with hand took me some effort to remove the HD smudge, nevertheless, its a very good product.
 
dschia said:
Bingo. In Singapore we have 4 season as well; hot, hotter, wet, wetter. I tried all means I could to remove the smudge including QD, IPA but none works. Even SRP with hand took me some effort to remove the HD smudge, nevertheless, its a very good product.
Click to expand...



Certain products, especially carnaubas "behave" erratically in temperature extremes. Megs No26 paste wax can also give this same problem under high humidity, high heat.



Tip:

1. Apply a thin layer of HD to a small area and immediately buff off.

Ensure you buff completely. Do the entire car.



2. When you're finished, wait overnite.

Tmrw, wipedown with damp cloth or your QD.

Apply a thin layer of HD in your usual style.

I've used this approach many times...and absolutely no problems!



That's why I love Swissvax carnaubas on top of their polishes.

Under this hot, humid climate...100% no problems at all.
 
Thanks for the tips. I understand where you are driving at but unfortunately I do not have the luxury in terms of time to do so. I do have a couple of encounters with swissvax BOS and no problem as well. Nowadays I just keep it simple and stick with powerlock. Just finished my 32oz of PL and not a single problem. It is dead easy to use; doesn't attract dust, easy on easy off. However, in terms of beading and sheeting, HD wax will kick its ***.
 
Please bare with me I'm from the UK and if the're products I mention you don't understand what I'm on about just google it ;-)



I have used AGHD now for about 18 months and only a couple of times have I had an issue with blooming, Usually applied in the mid 20's and not given long enough to cure, Our temprature ranges in between -10 to +28 that's about average 30 and summer has arrived for the day!



I'm not sure if the formula is Different to the US I'll ask the Lab later this week but I doubt it is, Autoglym waited 40 years to produce it's first hard wax and they wanted to make sure it was the best in the price bracket they pitched it in, It was a girl in the lab that came up with the mix, it needed to be something that spread on easily, stuck where it was supposed to and could be easily removed when needed, And do you know where she found the secret ingrediant? Her Lipstick!



The Wax was applied to a Hood at the Lab and the hood was then washed once a week for six months, It was still showing signs of protection and beading it was at this point they moved into production and it was released to the markets!



Back to the wax, I managed 33 applications from my first pot, It needs to be spread very thinly to work well, two wipes around the pot will be enough to do half a hood! Remember what you see on top is not sticking to the paint so what's it doing? Nothing! It's a waste.



All The Best



Michael
 
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