Discussion on Spit Shinning

Ah, good to know. I decided to try it on my hood, I just hit it with the Ultracoat Polish, AIO, and Longevity Sealant. I'll do another longevity coat then let it cure, I'll top it off with #26
 
Yes, in addtion you'll want a carnauba product low on solvent content to spit shine with. Souveran/P21s/S100 as well as the Poorboy's paste waxes are all good examples.
 
Well I finished it and I must say I'm impressed! I stripped the hood with Megs Paint Cleaner, followed by AIO, followed by 2 coats of Longevity (30 min between coats). I spit shined 2 coats of #26 and finished it off with P&S Hi-Tone glaze. It came out great! I was wondering if I should have waited longer between the coats of Longevity but I think 30 min was o.k. The whole hood is extremely reflective, especially in the shade. The reflection of my house and the side lawn just melted on the paint, it's awesome. I'm going to do the same thing to the rest of the car either later today or tomorrow. I can't wait to see the finished product, I'm glad I heared about this! :punk:

EDIT: Does spit shining have any effect on durability?
 
I can't say I'm familiar with Longevity. :huh:

The main purpose of the spit shining is to maximize the amount of carnauba wax and get an enhanced wet and deep look to the paint as possible. Because it's for use with "beauty waxes", durability isn't really a factor.
 
Golden Gate North (Local detail supply store) carries Longevity sealant. I looked on www.flynndist.com and they carry it too, so it must be the same sealant badged under the golden Gate North name. IMO it works really well. When applied via PC it leaves a very even, very smooth finish. It wipes off with ease too!
 
The way I have done it is to mist with QD, and then apply the wax, then re-mist with QD and buff off. Don't know if that is the correct way, but it works nice enough.:)
 
I just completed a spit shine on my daughter's 2003 Ford Focus. Yesterday I did a detail of Menzerna Auto Shampoo, IP, FPll, Pinnacle Paint Cleansing Lotion and Souveran. It looked good.

This morning I went out and used Crystal Mist. Wiped down the whole vehicle using a MF towel. After that I did a spit shine of the whole vehicle by misting the pad, the vehicle, and applying Souveran. Did the whole vehicle then wiped it off using Crystal Mist and a MF towels. All I can say is....it has made a difference to the look in my opinion. A lot of work but worth it for the extra special touch which I was trying for since it was my daughter's car.

I did all of this in the garage under halogen lights. After pulling the vehicle back into the sunlight, this morning, I noticed that the paint had metal flake in it. Guess my old eys were not seeing yesterday. I never noticed the flake. After the spit shine, the flake really popped out noticeably. I was not the only one to notice. The daughter and wife both said that they had never seen it before. They might have been placating me because I obcessed over it so much so I really must take it with a grain of salt.

In the end it does look nice.
 
conrad.maranan said:
With all of the recent talk about this, I decided to finally give this a shot last Friday. Here's how I went about it:

- Chill QD in freezer
- Wax car and dry to a haze
- Mist chilled QD on each panel
- Remove wax with MF
- Mist chilled QD on each panel
- Wax misted panels and dry to a haze
- Mist chilled QD on each panel
- Remove wax with MF
- Buff with MF

I'm not sure my method is correct, but I did notice a drastic difference in the appearance of my vehicle. There was more depth in the shine. The added bonus was not having to deal with residue while buffing off the wax.
Click to expand...
So did you do this a section at a time or wax the whole car and let it haze then followed your procedure? Cuz some waxes need to be buffed off right away correct?
 
If you work with an easy on/easy off low solvent content carnauba wax, ( I personally have Souveran, but I hear P21s/S100, and Natty's also do very well) you don't have to worry about buffing off the wax right away. The idea is to lay down the wax and use the chilled QD as a barrier from removing it from the application of addition wax as well as enhanced depth. Keep tiny droplets of QD on the panel as you wax,small areas at a time. Towards the end of doing each area, work the wax in until it is invisible. When you complete this for the entire panel, look for hazing and then spray the panel down with QD and buff to a magnificent, brilliant, deep shine.
 
Correct methodology on spit shining (Bill D does it right!!!):

Spit shining is for building heavy coats, deepening the look, by preventing the solvents to re-liquify and remove the previous wax layers.
If you remove a hazed wax with QD, nothing special happens. You’ll just see a shiny, waxed/QDd surface - but it's not spit shining.
Usually, a wax with higher solvent content can/will remove the previous layer. Heavy carnaubas don’t have high solvent contents, so they can build pretty thick layers with this method. You need distilled water (eventually QD; as it is up to 95% water - but preferably carnauba QD, without alcohol) to neutralize the solvents in the newly applied layer; and the spritz has to be cold, to let the new wax to almost freeze onto the finish. Then you working it until the water/QD/wax disappears. First, you have a prepped-waxed surface. When you want to put on the second/third/etc. layer, you spritz a fine, light mist on the panel. Begin to wipe the wax on. While waxing, mist water/QD a few times. Work until your wax is disappeared. Go over with an ultrafine MF. Wait a bit (half an hour or an hour) then you can apply the next layer.
It is wise to follow the 'divided panels' method. If dust appears, the application was too thick. You can always remove haze with QD; there is nothing unusual in it. But better to have no dust/haze.
Theoretically, each carnauba paste will work good, but it can depend on the solvents, oils, application method (chilled water or QD). Remember, just removing the haze of a wax with QD is NOT spit shining yet! Only a holistic approach makes it perfect. So, mist, wax, mist, continue waxing, mist, wax disappeared, buff lightly with MF. And again... and again...
The golden rule with heavy carnaubas is that you never allow them to dry fully. For example, the dried Victorias are horrendous to remove...
Some feel that a thick, heavy initial application of wax gives a softer, richer touch. It is a good base to start with. However, ALWAYS apply extremely thin layers when spit shining!
The reason to use a damp applicator/towel/cotton balls etc., is to neutralize the solvents as much as possible, and to stop the fine coats of wax sticking to the applicator, thereby encouraging the wax to build thin, fine layers.
Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and it has different beading characteristics; with even smaller beads, which have far bigger contact angles. The durability is about the same (or slightly better), but the improved, beautiful, mile-deep appearance is worth it.

So, once again: When you spit shine, you spritz water onto the surface BEFORE waxing, and WHILE you wax. The coats must be so thin and the application must be so thorough that you shouldn’t have haze/residue. If haze appears, the application was either too thick or too short. With the water you switch the solvents off and this allows the wax to build very heavy layers. That's why you should avoid QDs with alcohol, because it compromises the wax buildup. Beading characteristics is different, jetting is better, and the beads have smaller contact angles. Just do 5 layers with 30 minute breaks, and you'll see what spit shining is about...
 
Bence said:
Correct methodology on spit shining (Bill D does it right!!!):

Spit shining is for building heavy coats, deepening the look, by preventing the solvents to re-liquify and remove the previous wax layers.
If you remove a hazed wax with QD, nothing special happens. You’ll just see a shiny, waxed/QDd surface - but it's not spit shining.
Usually, a wax with higher solvent content can/will remove the previous layer. Heavy carnaubas don’t have high solvent contents, so they can build pretty thick layers with this method. You need distilled water (eventually QD; as it is up to 95% water - but preferably carnauba QD, without alcohol) to neutralize the solvents in the newly applied layer; and the spritz has to be cold, to let the new wax to almost freeze onto the finish. Then you working it until the water/QD/wax disappears. First, you have a prepped-waxed surface. When you want to put on the second/third/etc. layer, you spritz a fine, light mist on the panel. Begin to wipe the wax on. While waxing, mist water/QD a few times. Work until your wax is disappeared. Go over with an ultrafine MF. Wait a bit (half an hour or an hour) then you can apply the next layer.
It is wise to follow the 'divided panels' method. If dust appears, the application was too thick. You can always remove haze with QD; there is nothing unusual in it. But better to have no dust/haze.
Theoretically, each carnauba paste will work good, but it can depend on the solvents, oils, application method (chilled water or QD). Remember, just removing the haze of a wax with QD is NOT spit shining yet! Only a holistic approach makes it perfect. So, mist, wax, mist, continue waxing, mist, wax disappeared, buff lightly with MF. And again... and again...
The golden rule with heavy carnaubas is that you never allow them to dry fully. For example, the dried Victorias are horrendous to remove...
Some feel that a thick, heavy initial application of wax gives a softer, richer touch. It is a good base to start with. However, ALWAYS apply extremely thin layers when spit shining!
The reason to use a damp applicator/towel/cotton balls etc., is to neutralize the solvents as much as possible, and to stop the fine coats of wax sticking to the applicator, thereby encouraging the wax to build thin, fine layers.
Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and it has different beading characteristics; with even smaller beads, which have far bigger contact angles. The durability is about the same (or slightly better), but the improved, beautiful, mile-deep appearance is worth it.

So, once again: When you spit shine, you spritz water onto the surface BEFORE waxing, and WHILE you wax. The coats must be so thin and the application must be so thorough that you shouldn’t have haze/residue. If haze appears, the application was either too thick or too short. With the water you switch the solvents off and this allows the wax to build very heavy layers. That's why you should avoid QDs with alcohol, because it compromises the wax buildup. Beading characteristics is different, jetting is better, and the beads have smaller contact angles. Just do 5 layers with 30 minute breaks, and you'll see what spit shining is about...
Click to expand...

This is soooo much up my alley! So where do you get the qd ? So you spritz the car with cold caranuba qd then work your wax into the surface spritzing it a bit until it is worked in and no haze,then you re-apply cold sprits and repeat until your happy with the amount of layers you are looking for then mf it all off?
 
Bence said:
Yep, basically that's it. But still, best is to do it with distilled water.
Click to expand...
Distilled cold water is better than the quick detailer?
Do you start with a buffed off coat of wax first then spit shine or do you start your waxing with the spritz spit shine and wax?
 
When you want to spit shine, I assume that your finish is in great condition - because this method is for reaching another dimension in depth. You can do it either way, but I used to start over a preexisting wax layer.
The goal of the liquid (aka water or QD) is to neutralize the paste's solvents. While a QD can glossify the surface even more, it contains its own solvents and sometimes alcohol. That's why the water is (theoretically) better. True, QDs are up to 95% water, so the difference is not that big, especially when doing 5 or more layers.
 
TE=Bence]When you want to spit shine, I assume that your finish is in great condition - because this method is for reaching another dimension in depth. You can do it either way, but I used to start over a preexisting wax layer.
The goal of the liquid (aka water or QD) is to neutralize the paste's solvents. While a QD can glossify the surface even more, it contains its own solvents and sometimes alcohol. That's why the water is (theoretically) better. True, QDs are up to 95% water, so the difference is not that big, especially when doing 5 or more layers.[/QUOTE]
:beer_smil THANKS
 
bigron62 said:
bump
Click to expand...
Ron did you do this just for me??
glomp.gif

For you!!
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