Difference between lines

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bortass

New member
I tried to figure this out via search but wasn't able to narrow it down enough.



What is the general differences between a consumer line/professional line/detailers line?



I'm a noob and have just started out using OTC products since they are what I could find locally. I only plan on detailing our 2 household cars, both daily drivers.
 
Bortass- Welcome to Autopia! Here's an example you might be familiar with- Meguiar's products.



Within the Meguiar's brand, the consumer products are primarily idiot-proof in that they're almost all nonabrasive (notable exception being Sratch-X); you can't damage your paint with them. They're also easy to use in the sense that different application techniques will yield basically the same results. Those results, while not bad/mediocre, might not be as nice as you'd like. The durability of the consumer level LSPs (Last Step Products, i.e., "wax") is only fair. The prices on these products are reasonable, they come in smallish sizes, and they're widely marketed (hence easy to find).



Their Pro line products more often contain abrasives (not a bad thing, BTW). They also require a *little* more common sense application-wise, but it's nothing to worry about. The LSPs are longer lasting. These products are available in large sizes (sometimes that's *all* they come in) and are sometimes a bit expensive compared to the consumer stuff. The pro line products are available directly from Meguiar's, from autobody/paint supply places, and from on-line vendors.



I've been using the Pro line since I was a kid (and my relatives used it back when that was *all* Meguiar's sold). I hardly *ever* use anything from the consumer line except Deep Crystal Step #1 (good paint cleaner). It just seems easier to get a product that does exactly what I want, in the quantity I want, by choosing from the Pro line.
 
Thanks. That's what I was wondering. All my OTC stuff is Megs except for wheel cleaner and clay. I'm real happy what I was able to do with just that. I'll expand my horizons a bit more a specific needs come up.
 
Also, the pro line is typically designed for machine application. I got a catalog from a Mequiar's class I attended that listed each product and recommended application technique (hand, orbital or rotary). As I understand, #21 is a variation of NXT but works better with the rotary.
 
#21 doesn't need to applied with a rotary. It will go by hand, or PC or even rotary but there is absolutely no need to apply it that way. It has very mild cleaners with the purpose that they ensure a better surface prep, helping proper bonding. Nothing aggressive and this will give you some degree of layerability.



Back to the original question: for example when you take 1Z polishes, the Pro versions are a bit more aggressive (1Z PP consumer vs. 1Z PP Pro), contain less wax (1Z polishes do contain wax). So, there are slight variations in the material composition which either ensures safety of use vs. quick, professional results. The average end user will not or can not produce those results in a given time frame. Instead they need a product which gives reliable, good results with as little potential damage as possible. Pros, however, have the skills to apply aggressive products safely, quickly.
 
Yeah, what Bence said. And many of the "machine application" products from Meguiar's can work fine by hand/PC too. It's just that their rotary-only products really should only be used that way.



Bence- Does 1z still offer the same old Pro products that they used to over in Europe? I had to stock up on the Pro MP and WPS while I could still get them as they've been discontinued in the US. IIRC you use some of their large-quantity products that I've yet to try...
 
Yes, they still sell them but as I heard 1Z is phasing out the polishes from its product range and they will focus on the carwash sector instead. The importer of 1Z is a friend of mine, so the info is pretty accurate.



Yup, I'm using their Intensive Paste, the High Gloss Polish and the Waxfinish O.S. (silicone free). The PI (originally Pasta Intensive) is quite good, but clogs and cakes the pads quickly. It can flash quickly as well, so the working time is somewhat limited. When you apply it with rotary you should use slow RPMs (like 700-900). For me it is an 'OK, but...' product. I use HGP quite extensively. It darkens the finish and works excellent as an optical grade CD/DVD polish. I restore discs for a local DVD rental with it. The WF is a glaze; nothing more, nothing less. Has its place, but I use it very rarely. Try rather some FK1. Seriously.
 
Bence said:
Yes, they still sell them but as I heard 1Z is phasing out the polishes from its product range and they will focus on the carwash sector instead. The importer of 1Z is a friend of mine, so the info is pretty accurate.
Click to expand...



bence, how do you like the 1z glanz wax?
 
Well, I like it but it is a finicky product. I apply it with a tiny sprayer which atomizes very fine droplets. Then I wipe over with a plush MF until it disappears. Basically I use it like a QD. SPROWO method??? :D



It has a nice soft glow, not a typical hard sealant look and looks good over gold and dark paints. It has pretty good durability as well.
 
Bence- Thanks for the informative response. I've stockpiled enough of my preferred 1Z polishes to last me many, many years, but I find it interesting that you'd lean towards FK1. For what I do with this stuff I'd have first turned to Menzerna, but I'll keep the FK1 in mind.



I remembered your fondness for the Intesive Paste, fortunately that's not something I expect I'll ever need :D
 
Accumulator, for polishing I use Optimum, Menzerna, 1Z and Riwax products. I haven't tried FK1 polishes yet. However, their AIO-like products are excellent, and for protection I cannot imagine anything better.



Mike, here is my process. First, I secured the discs with a double-sided tape to a piece of plexiglass. After two or three attempts, I faced with difficulties, because some of the discs are sensitive to the tape. (It can remove the print.)

Then I chose a very thin DVD case, cut the edges and the other unnecessary parts and I taped it to the plexiglass. It holds the disc securely and allows it to spin freely under the pad. The disc actually turns slowly counterclockwise and the DA does the rest of the job. I run it between 4.5 to 6, depending on the condition of the disc. I use a white Riwax polishing pad which produces a very fine, usually absolutely marring free finish. I use 0.1-0.2 ml of 1Z HGP per disc. I prime the pad with FK1 #425 and go. It takes 10-20 seconds to finish an average disc. Depending on the damage, I sometimes apply pressure, but usually not much.

When the damage is very heavy, I use an even more aggressive product, such as AutoGlym PR, 1Z PI, or recently I tried the Carlack Heavy Scratch Remover paste. Of course, the deeper, fingernail-catching RIDS are totally unremovable but the surroundings will be fine enough to play OK. I remove the product with a suede MF and a spritz of #425.



Here you can see the restoration of a heavier damage:



The setup

DVD_001.jpg




Damaged disc; skips, freezes, etc.

DVD_002.jpg




Amount of AGPR for pad priming/heavier correction

DVD_003.jpg




Usual amount of 1Z HGP

DVD_004.jpg




During the process (Demo pic: I lifted the pad immediately after starting the DA. As the disc turns counterclockwise, you can observe the spreading/trace of polish on the surface.)

DVD_005.jpg




Finished disc

DVD_006.jpg
 
I see, Bence...seems the key is the holding "fixture". I have a disc with a scratch in it and got nowhere by hand (even more marring it seemed) and bought a crappy motorized polisher which didn't take it out either. There was a better polisher but I could only find it online from stores I wasn't comfortable with. When I get a moment I'll try to rig up something like you did from some sort of CD/DVD case. Thanks for the help/ideas!
 
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