Steve @ Guru
New member
MBZ 500E said:
I generally don't have much problem with the oily look either, but I often worry about the types of oils that certain companies use...
Did A Wax Comparison Yesterday, Suprising Results
- Thread starter MBZ 500E
- Start date
I generally don't have much problem with the oily look either, but I often worry about the types of oils that certain companies use...
I compared GC liquid directly to Pinnacle Liquid Souveran on Saturday; the LS is, IMO, more reflective and deeper.
On June 22nd I compared GC paste directly to Mother's Cal Gold Paste, Natural Formula (there are 2 Cal Golds, Original Formula is a cleaner wax). Upon initial application I judged the products to be similar, but the Mother's smells great, is a wipe on/wipe off carnuba, and I had 11 cars to do, so I went with the Mother's. When I'd finished the cars with the Mother's, they had a very nice "glow" to them. I can't say that the Meg's wouldn't have had that, because I didn't finish a car with it, I just did a side by side on a decklid. The website with the pics is down for now, but I'll send you the link when it's back. But, my personal car didn't glow with the Megs. It looked great, but it didn't "pop". There's a post with pics of the car done with LS in the bragging room. You being a Benz guy, you may also find a laugh in there.
Mosca
On June 22nd I compared GC paste directly to Mother's Cal Gold Paste, Natural Formula (there are 2 Cal Golds, Original Formula is a cleaner wax). Upon initial application I judged the products to be similar, but the Mother's smells great, is a wipe on/wipe off carnuba, and I had 11 cars to do, so I went with the Mother's. When I'd finished the cars with the Mother's, they had a very nice "glow" to them. I can't say that the Meg's wouldn't have had that, because I didn't finish a car with it, I just did a side by side on a decklid. The website with the pics is down for now, but I'll send you the link when it's back. But, my personal car didn't glow with the Megs. It looked great, but it didn't "pop". There's a post with pics of the car done with LS in the bragging room. You being a Benz guy, you may also find a laugh in there.
Mosca
I also used to use Megs Gold Class Liquid Wax. I do agree that it provides a very deep gloss and superior shine that S100. However, with the very poor durability (less than a week in our country's weather condition - Philippines) and being a dust magnet... I gave up on the product and just gave an almost full bottle to a friend.
I then tested using S100 for sometime. I like the shine but does not provide a deep gloss finish like Megs Gold Class but S100 is less of a dust magnet. Not really that satisfied.. i gave my 1 s100 tub to a friend.
Currently I am very satisfied with Klasse Twins. The best of Megs Gold Class and S100 can be achieved by the Twins with a lot better durability.
I now have morethan 6 coatings of Klasse SG and man :bounce
I love it!!!
The only product that I am considering now to ever replace Klasse Twins is ZAINO.... but I am not yet convinced
.
I then tested using S100 for sometime. I like the shine but does not provide a deep gloss finish like Megs Gold Class but S100 is less of a dust magnet. Not really that satisfied.. i gave my 1 s100 tub to a friend.
Currently I am very satisfied with Klasse Twins. The best of Megs Gold Class and S100 can be achieved by the Twins with a lot better durability.
I now have morethan 6 coatings of Klasse SG and man :bounce
I love it!!!
The only product that I am considering now to ever replace Klasse Twins is ZAINO.... but I am not yet convinced
.imported_dookiebob
New member
Jaim, I really like the Klasse twins as well, but I think they look kind of lifeless without a S100 topper.
I've been using Klasse AIO + SG topped with S100 for a while now, but I'm thinking about retrying the GC liquid. I do recall getting more compliments with the GC than with the current regimen.. :nixweiss
Has anyone tried Klasse AIO + SG topped with GC? I think I'm gonna try that tomorrow
-Bob
I've been using Klasse AIO + SG topped with S100 for a while now, but I'm thinking about retrying the GC liquid. I do recall getting more compliments with the GC than with the current regimen.. :nixweiss
Has anyone tried Klasse AIO + SG topped with GC? I think I'm gonna try that tomorrow
-Bob
dookiebob,
With the kind of dust and weather conditions we have here in the Philippines it is very difficult to have a wax based topper.
My wife was in USA sometime last year and she said that dust in the Philippines is about 500 times the dust you have there. Also, dust in USA in most cases are white while dust here in the Philippines more specifically in Metro Manila is BLACK (Mostly diesel Fuel Fumes).
For the above reason, Klasse Twins works best for me!
:up
With the kind of dust and weather conditions we have here in the Philippines it is very difficult to have a wax based topper.
My wife was in USA sometime last year and she said that dust in the Philippines is about 500 times the dust you have there. Also, dust in USA in most cases are white while dust here in the Philippines more specifically in Metro Manila is BLACK (Mostly diesel Fuel Fumes).
For the above reason, Klasse Twins works best for me!
:up
max_man_94_01
New member
I have been a lurker for sometime now. I used GC a handful of times before joining this group and was somewhat happy with it. Since I joined this group, I have learned to be biased against cleaner/waxes. I learned about not being able to layer and such. Since then, I have used S100, Blitz, #26 and other waxes with-out cleaners. Now this thread brings up some interesting points. Maybe cleaners in waxes are not such a bad thing after all. Has anyone determined if a wax containing "cleaners", takes a full layer of wax off? Or does it just take-off a small portion of the previous layer. On my daily driver, on some weeks I find myself doing a QD almost everyday. Just bored I guess. Everytime, I see my microfiber all dirtied up even though I do not see any visible dirt on the car. Now this makes me think, even after washing the car, I don't think I am cleaning all the microscopic dirt and dust that is on the surface. And if I proceed to wax it using a non cleaner wax(S100, Blitz, #26), am I just sealing in a microscopic layer of dirt and dust that accumulated during the week. In a few months time, several layers of dirt and dust may be sealed in, thus the need for a multi-step process to restore the gloss and reflectivity on the paint. Maybe that is why GC is much more reflective. Because it takes away a thin layer of dirt and dust off the surface. Could this microscopic cleaning also prolong the time between doing multi-step processes on the car? Since the accumulation of dirt is somewhat minimized. Anyone want to chime in on this theory??
Hmm good point you got going. I also learned to be biased towards cleaner wax's and filler type products. I dont think that a cleaner wax takes of the previous layer of wax 100%. Sometimes when I dawn wash some spots are still beading like crazy. if you prep is good before then you should get a great shine usally dust and dirt dont collect on the surface since most people wax right after they wash and use a abrasive or clayed before which preps the paint good.
The cleaner/non-cleaner wax debate doesn't really have an answer in my opinion. Whether a wax has "cleaners" or not isn't always cut and dried too. Some waxes have stronger cleaners (AIO and Meguiar's #6 for example) and others are supposed to have relatively light cleaners. I think GC falls in this category, and recent discussion seems to suggest that Meguiar's #20 also has only very light cleaners.
One reason why many Autopians don't like cleaners in their wax is because it may degrade or remove any glaze (#7, IHG, etc) they have applied, and because they don't know how much it cleans, they are unsure if they are truly adding an extra layer of protection or not.
Another reason is that you can't put cleaner waxes on top of some painstakingly applied sealant (Klasse for example) with any confidence.
Last, cleaner waxes, in the Autopian realm of detailing, don't really have much of a function. Ideally, if you perform the all-important prep phase properly, the cleaning ability of the wax is either totally redundant or at worst, counterproductive.
I don't think the admittedly broad category of "cleaner waxes" is disliked at Autopia so much as it doesn't really have a place most of the time. There is a reason why 95% of the waxes sold on retail store shelves are cleaner waxes, but boutique stores sell pure, non-cleaner products....
My pile of pennies.
One reason why many Autopians don't like cleaners in their wax is because it may degrade or remove any glaze (#7, IHG, etc) they have applied, and because they don't know how much it cleans, they are unsure if they are truly adding an extra layer of protection or not.
Another reason is that you can't put cleaner waxes on top of some painstakingly applied sealant (Klasse for example) with any confidence.
Last, cleaner waxes, in the Autopian realm of detailing, don't really have much of a function. Ideally, if you perform the all-important prep phase properly, the cleaning ability of the wax is either totally redundant or at worst, counterproductive.
I don't think the admittedly broad category of "cleaner waxes" is disliked at Autopia so much as it doesn't really have a place most of the time. There is a reason why 95% of the waxes sold on retail store shelves are cleaner waxes, but boutique stores sell pure, non-cleaner products....
My pile of pennies.
imported_dookiebob
New member
great points, 4DSC :xyxthumbs
max_man_94_01 said:
Are you dusting your car before you QD? You shouldn't be getting a lot of dirt like that in your microfiber towel. I always dust with my california duster first and then follow up with QD. If the car is too dirty to dust with my duster, I wash the car. You may be scratching your paint if you see a lot of dirt on your microfiber. :up
max_man_94_01
New member
Jake11375 said:
Of course. A ccd is a must before any QD session. that goes with-out saying.
quote:
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Originally posted by max_man_94_01
On my daily driver, on some weeks I find myself doing a QD almost everyday. Just bored I guess. Everytime, I see my microfiber all dirtied up even though I do not see any visible dirt on the car.
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If you do not see any dirt on your car but your microfiber is getting too much dirt... I suspect that you have a wax topper and it is the wax that you see got scrapped out from your panels.
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Originally posted by max_man_94_01
On my daily driver, on some weeks I find myself doing a QD almost everyday. Just bored I guess. Everytime, I see my microfiber all dirtied up even though I do not see any visible dirt on the car.
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If you do not see any dirt on your car but your microfiber is getting too much dirt... I suspect that you have a wax topper and it is the wax that you see got scrapped out from your panels.
max_man_94_01
New member
4DSC said:
I agree with your statement 4DSC. On a multi-step job where you do clay, clean, polish and wax, using a cleaner wax as a final step would definitely be counter productive. As that would take away some qualities that your polish has created on the surface. However, it is the days and weeks after you do the multi-step process I am concerned about. I do multi-steps every 3-4 months. After doing a multi-step process on my daily driver, I do QD sessions after(every day or every other day), always do a weekly wash and do a wax job(non-cleaner wax) every week or two weeks. As a daily driver, microscopic layers of dust and dirt builds up in-between. Don't you think? With this thread, I am starting to think that the daily QD and weekly washing does not really go down deep into the paint or at least, on the initial layer of wax, and lift away the dust and dirt and we end up sealing it in with another coat of a non-cleaner wax (S100,#26,blitz,etc.).
I don't intend to start an argument here. Just trying to share some thoughts and ideas brought about by this thread.
So I have a question.
During my test this past weekend I did clay and polish/glaze the car before appying the S100. It makes sense that a cleaner wax would be counterproductive but how do you explain the better results?
What I've decided to do is re wax a section of the hood with the GC to find out if there is any difference with the week old wax vs the just applied wax. If no difference I have to assume that in my application the GC performs better than the S100. Am I wrong here?
BTW I'm considering a couple of new products based on recommendations here. LS and the Klasse Twins.:xyxthumbs
During my test this past weekend I did clay and polish/glaze the car before appying the S100. It makes sense that a cleaner wax would be counterproductive but how do you explain the better results?
What I've decided to do is re wax a section of the hood with the GC to find out if there is any difference with the week old wax vs the just applied wax. If no difference I have to assume that in my application the GC performs better than the S100. Am I wrong here?
BTW I'm considering a couple of new products based on recommendations here. LS and the Klasse Twins.:xyxthumbs
max_man_94_01
New member
jaim said:
Scrapped....eeek...hate to hear that word used in this forum...but seriously, that would be tantamount to saying that the QD contains a potent amount of cleaners if it lifts away a layer of wax....QD's I use are EOWWS, One grand show-off(favorite) and FI.
max_man_94_01
To some extent, I do believe that QD-ing will remove whatever type of wax you have on top of your paint surface.
Here is my reason, as follows:
No matter what, a wax will never ever bond to a paint surface. What the wax can do, at the most, is just temporarily stick to the paint surface but no chemical bonding whatsoever takes place between the wax and the paint surface.
Now, if you try to wet (QD or H20) the waxed paint surface and use an towel (or whatever towel) to rub the waxed paint surface while QD-ing... it is without any doubt that you are removing, to some extent, the wax layer on top of the paint surface.
Come to think of it... why is it that some QD include a wax formula on their solutions? Answer: To replace whatever wax that the wetting process has removed.
You may want to test, QD-ing a waxed paint surface using a QD that do not contain any wax (EO Wet, Wipe and Shine) for 5 consecutive days and see if the wax still cease to exist after such process. Better yet, try it half on your hood to see the comparative difference.
To some extent, I do believe that QD-ing will remove whatever type of wax you have on top of your paint surface.
Here is my reason, as follows:
No matter what, a wax will never ever bond to a paint surface. What the wax can do, at the most, is just temporarily stick to the paint surface but no chemical bonding whatsoever takes place between the wax and the paint surface.
Now, if you try to wet (QD or H20) the waxed paint surface and use an towel (or whatever towel) to rub the waxed paint surface while QD-ing... it is without any doubt that you are removing, to some extent, the wax layer on top of the paint surface.
Come to think of it... why is it that some QD include a wax formula on their solutions? Answer: To replace whatever wax that the wetting process has removed.
You may want to test, QD-ing a waxed paint surface using a QD that do not contain any wax (EO Wet, Wipe and Shine) for 5 consecutive days and see if the wax still cease to exist after such process. Better yet, try it half on your hood to see the comparative difference.
imported_Larry A
New member
I think you have a choice here . Wax every month multi-step every 3-4 months. Cleaner wax every month multi-step every year.You can always top the cleaner wax with straight wax if you wanted extra zip on a dark color. It all depends on how much time and energy you have.
max_man_94_01
New member
jaim said:
My understanding of QD is that it enhances the layer of wax or sealant and helps prolong the life of what ever protectant you have on your paint. Maybe to some extent, you are right that it takes a layer out. But what I am seeing is a dirty microfiber at the end of a QD session. I don't think that is wax that I see on the mf.
But, like I said, I have had QD sessions almost on a daily basis and do a wax job at the end of the week. Well, I have skipped one or two weekends since the start of the year. Anyways, water still beads when doing my weekly washings. So I don't think the QD takes away the layer of wax to the point that it does not exist after 5 days of QD'ing. Or in some instances where I skipped a week-end, 14 days of QD'ing.
Anyways, I think we may be going off topic here(from GC to QD properties). MBZ 500E, please let us know what the results of your tests. Kind of interested. Thinking of giving GC another chance. Since I joined this group, I have been waxing almost every week. That puts protection of the paint secondary. My goal is to keep the appearance of the car in tip-top shape. Willing to try something new. Or in this case something old.