Diamondite - Polymer Glass System
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imported_memnuts
New member
OneQuickGT1 said:
Give Bryan Schouest of Diamondite a call (1-800-426-1380) or e-mail him at [email protected]. I am sure he can direct you to a local distributor ( save shipping cost) or sell directly to you. Ask for the $21.95 price even if purchased directly from Diamondite. Long story about differential of pricing between direct and distributors. I am very sure he will work with you.
This stuff is really working out well for me. A quick QD with Z6 or Quik Shine and the glass sparkles. It also did a great job removing staining on my shower glass doors.:bow
Hope this helps Edwin:wavey
blkZ28Conv said:After wiping off all the foam clay I re-cleaned the surface with the glass cleaner provided in the kit per direction. So far very little product used. At this point there is an obvious difference between the clayed half and the original glass. I am excited now but also a little nervous... time for the final step - Protectant. This is the easiest step. Spray on a allow to dry for 5-10 minutes ( I allowed 30 minutes - time for a Bud reward). I buffed off the resultant haze with first a 100% cotton towel and than a MF final buff. Now this is where reading the directions completely is important. After removing the dried protectant in order activated the polymer bonding reaction one must wipe down area with a damp cloth and than follow-up with a final wipe (MF). WOW!! New glass compared with the control untouched side.
I too received a kit a several months back and have run test after test and tried several ways to get good results.
My conclusion has been the Spray Clay works and works well, but the Cleaner and Protectant just don't do it for me.
The cleaner always leaves a film that results in having to go back with Invisible Glass or something better to clear up. I have tried many methods with the glass cleaner as well.
As for the protectant, again I have tried many methods and half and half comparisons only to find no difference in beading with the protectant vs no protectant. The clay cleaning action seems to be the reason it beads better.
And you are right you must follow the instructions to get the film completely off!
I would buy the clay again for sure, but can't recommend the other 2 products. I really wanted to make them work. :nixweiss And I have given them a fair shot over and over again in all sorts of scenarios since October when I got the kit.
Bryan at Diamondite is a great guy and I would definately do business with him again.
imported_memnuts
New member
Nice and thoughtful follow-up review dr427.
The foam clay was my main reason to try this product because of my lack of need for windshield beading ability ( car never driven in bad weather) but would be a great addition to my daily driver if the polymer shield increased visibilty and ease of cleaning.
I am sure there are differential is results. From talking to Bryan I recalled him stating that the wet towel wipe after sealant application to be extremely important ( activation of bonding). After the initial buffing, water wipe and final buff, the next morning I repeated these steps to not only remove any residual but also finalize any bonding activity. I followed with a glass cleaner and final buffed with Z6. I have had no hazing now for over a month with only QD'ing after use with Quik Shine. It maybe my imagination but the clarity of my windshield appears better. I came to this conclusion one day when driving. Reason not by direct observation but by the fact that I was not distracted by flaws in the windshield ( ie. glare, haze, sap spots that I never detect while cleaning normally).
dr427 I hope you find the technique that will eliminate your problem. I agree the clay foam is excellent and only time will tell when I apply the sealant to the daily driver if it also performs as well.
dr427, did you use MF's for the cleaner and final buff? I found Terry towels useless for both of these steps.
I second the comment about Bryan being a very nice and accessible person to discuss glass detailing and their products. :xyxthumbs
The foam clay was my main reason to try this product because of my lack of need for windshield beading ability ( car never driven in bad weather) but would be a great addition to my daily driver if the polymer shield increased visibilty and ease of cleaning.
I am sure there are differential is results. From talking to Bryan I recalled him stating that the wet towel wipe after sealant application to be extremely important ( activation of bonding). After the initial buffing, water wipe and final buff, the next morning I repeated these steps to not only remove any residual but also finalize any bonding activity. I followed with a glass cleaner and final buffed with Z6. I have had no hazing now for over a month with only QD'ing after use with Quik Shine. It maybe my imagination but the clarity of my windshield appears better. I came to this conclusion one day when driving. Reason not by direct observation but by the fact that I was not distracted by flaws in the windshield ( ie. glare, haze, sap spots that I never detect while cleaning normally).
dr427 I hope you find the technique that will eliminate your problem. I agree the clay foam is excellent and only time will tell when I apply the sealant to the daily driver if it also performs as well.
dr427, did you use MF's for the cleaner and final buff? I found Terry towels useless for both of these steps.
I second the comment about Bryan being a very nice and accessible person to discuss glass detailing and their products. :xyxthumbs
blkZ28Conv said:
Oh yeah, that's all we use here on Autopia isn't it?
Yeah MF's and the damp method as well (after talking with Bryan). And I did my tests on 2 daily drivers.
First test was half Clayed half not. Then Full clay and Half Protectant.
I took some pics during a rain that I apparently have since deleted, but they were taken from the back seat position and I bet no would would know which side had protectant and which didn't. The beading after claying was identical. There was a distinct difference before claying and no protectant, but the protectant didn't make any difference in my opinion. I haven't talked with Bryan for a while, but I did after my results.
I bet for Polycarnonate and Plexiglass surfaces it could make a difference since you really shouldn't use the Spray Clay on those surfaces with the applicator sponge.
I am glad your results faired better than mine!:xyxthumbs
Maybe others will do the same!
Nick T.
New member
My Diamondite arrived yesterday and my daily driver (88,000 mile Suburban) volunteered to be a guinea pig.
On one area I followed Diamondite’s instructions to the letter: clean with their cleaner; scrub with their foam clay, clean again with their cleaner; spray with their polymer shield and buff off when dry.
On another area I did my own thing: clean with EF Clear Glass, clay with Zaino Z-18, clean with Z-6, apply a coat of Z-1, then Z-5 and buff off when dry.
Both test areas were under the driver’s side wiper to eliminate differences introduced by two different blades, and also to make the areas stay in my consciousness while driving.
This morning I parked facing into the sun and did a visual check, then had my son spray the windshield with a hose, then ran the wipers, then drove about 80 freeway miles doing errands.
Preliminary results: Little or no difference in the end result. It was much harder to clear the Diamondite haze than it was with the Z-5. Before running the wipers the water beading was identical on both areas. While running the wipers there was some slight smearing on the Diamondite area, so I hit it again with the cleaner and a MF cloth. Next wiper test was okay. After drying both areas with a MF cloth the reflectivity of both areas was identical. During the driving test I was hoping to meet some suicidal bugs so I could check ease of removal - but no luck there. The two that did hit the glass hit on the passenger side away from the test areas. Both products did a little filling of the “sand blast� spots on my glass, but it’s going to take a glass polish job to do it right.
Diamondite pluses: The clay process is much better than using a clay bar because there is no “run-off� of the product as there is with the clay’s lubricant.
Diamondite negatives: Much more difficult to buff of the sealant. More expensive than using regular clay and Zaino.
And yes, I do know that Zaino is not DOT approved for use on windshields.
After I get and use some glass polish I’ll start comparing in earnest.
On one area I followed Diamondite’s instructions to the letter: clean with their cleaner; scrub with their foam clay, clean again with their cleaner; spray with their polymer shield and buff off when dry.
On another area I did my own thing: clean with EF Clear Glass, clay with Zaino Z-18, clean with Z-6, apply a coat of Z-1, then Z-5 and buff off when dry.
Both test areas were under the driver’s side wiper to eliminate differences introduced by two different blades, and also to make the areas stay in my consciousness while driving.
This morning I parked facing into the sun and did a visual check, then had my son spray the windshield with a hose, then ran the wipers, then drove about 80 freeway miles doing errands.
Preliminary results: Little or no difference in the end result. It was much harder to clear the Diamondite haze than it was with the Z-5. Before running the wipers the water beading was identical on both areas. While running the wipers there was some slight smearing on the Diamondite area, so I hit it again with the cleaner and a MF cloth. Next wiper test was okay. After drying both areas with a MF cloth the reflectivity of both areas was identical. During the driving test I was hoping to meet some suicidal bugs so I could check ease of removal - but no luck there. The two that did hit the glass hit on the passenger side away from the test areas. Both products did a little filling of the “sand blast� spots on my glass, but it’s going to take a glass polish job to do it right.
Diamondite pluses: The clay process is much better than using a clay bar because there is no “run-off� of the product as there is with the clay’s lubricant.
Diamondite negatives: Much more difficult to buff of the sealant. More expensive than using regular clay and Zaino.
And yes, I do know that Zaino is not DOT approved for use on windshields.
After I get and use some glass polish I’ll start comparing in earnest.
imported_phareous
New member
Based on this thread and the one at http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16750&highlight=diamondite it seems nobody is happy with the diamondite protectant. Just wanted to see if its still that way, and if so what everyone is using. I just tried Diamondite and I didn't see a difference. I didn't do the wet wipe (didn't see it on the instructions...will have to look again) BUT there was a terrible thunderstorm not more than 10 minutes after I finished...so it definately got wet. Anyways driving today in the rain I did not see any improvement and I still had to use my wipers constantly (unlike with the dreaded rain-x). b Also as I mentioned on another thread I do not care for the diamondite cleaner...it streaks everywhere. I was thinking of maybe using the diamondite clay in combination with some other cleaner and protectant...any suggestions?
Diamondite
New member
Diamondite Shield is a polymer sealant. Like any polymer, it must cure to obtain optimum benefits. You mentioned it rained 10 minutes after application. If that was the case, the product did not have ample time to cure. Optimum cure time is at least one hour and if you can avaid rain or carwashing, a couple of hours of cure time is best. I am confident if you do follow these instructions here and the instructions on the can, you will be happy with the results.
Bryan L. Schouest
Diamondite, L.L.C.
Bryan L. Schouest
Diamondite, L.L.C.
imported_phareous
New member
Ok I'll give it another try and post how it performs next time it rains.
I do though stand by my comments on the cleaner though...I had to scrub with the microfiber to get all the streaks off...both before and after the clay application.
Thanks for your advice...much appreciated
I do though stand by my comments on the cleaner though...I had to scrub with the microfiber to get all the streaks off...both before and after the clay application.
Thanks for your advice...much appreciated
I was also contemplating then of buying the product. However, I realized that no matter what product will I use and apply for my glass surface and eventually use a glass cleaner it will then be practically useless as it will be reomoved by the glass cleaner that I will be uisng. With this, I did not buy any glass protection product.
I just clean my glass everyday using my glass cleaner (Sprayway) and I noticed that water sport no longer stick to the glass surface as if I have some glass protective coating. The key i guess of not having those watermarks on the glass is to frequently clean the glass surface and not let those rain drops bake on the glass surface when the heat goes up.
I just clean my glass everyday using my glass cleaner (Sprayway) and I noticed that water sport no longer stick to the glass surface as if I have some glass protective coating. The key i guess of not having those watermarks on the glass is to frequently clean the glass surface and not let those rain drops bake on the glass surface when the heat goes up.
imported_Dave Holmes
New member
I do the same as jaim does. Clean my glass daily (and with Sprayway, too), and I have no problems at all with my glass. I applied Rain X over a year ago, and it is still working fine. Hardly ever need to use my wipers; the water beads off just like my very waxed paint. I have noticed with all glass cleaners that I get streaking (or a haze) if I clean the glass when the surface is hot or it's very sunny out. When that happens, I use a dry MF towel to buff them off.
I am interested in any products available to the consumer that could do away with minor surface flaws, like minor scratches and "sand-blasting" marks. Is Diamondite this type of product? Thanks.
Dave
I am interested in any products available to the consumer that could do away with minor surface flaws, like minor scratches and "sand-blasting" marks. Is Diamondite this type of product? Thanks.
Dave
Diamondite
New member
Yes. With the combination of use with all of our three products, you will see visible differences in the reconditioning effects our products lend to less-than-perfect glass surfaces. Please visit http://www.properautocare.com/diglclkit.html to read a write up on our products by Terry Freiburg with Classic Motoring Accessories.
Please let me know if I can help further,
Bryan L. Schouest
Please let me know if I can help further,
Bryan L. Schouest
No offense to Diamondite but from what I have read on the Guru Reports on its Glass Cleaner / Polish Products... you had a "BAD REVIEW".
My decision to purchase your product was really affected by reading what the Guru Reports has to say about how your products work.
Previously, your product is under my "things to buy" but with the review that you got... I dropped it! I am willing however to test your products if you can provide me some samples. PM me if you are willing to provide me such test product so I can provide you my address.
My decision to purchase your product was really affected by reading what the Guru Reports has to say about how your products work.
Previously, your product is under my "things to buy" but with the review that you got... I dropped it! I am willing however to test your products if you can provide me some samples. PM me if you are willing to provide me such test product so I can provide you my address.
SVR
Dream Machines
Even pro glass cleaner like my Klearview Blue isn't enough. It removes all the grime and gives a sparkle but it's still not perfect.
I apply Lanotec Citra Force at 1:50 dilution and buff the outside of the window, wouldn't dare use a citrus based product on tinted window. Then Klearview blue both sides. Sometimes i autosol to remove any scratches. occasionally to give windows an ultra smooth feel i mix citronella oil,kerosene,professional furniture polish and beeswax. I boil a teaspoon of beeswax and then add to the other ingredients and put in a mist spray bottle. Shake it up and apply to the outside edges of the windows and then 4 side to side strokes and all done. Then klearview blue on top of that finishes it off. The end result are windows almost invisible and a smoother feel than buffed paint.
I apply Lanotec Citra Force at 1:50 dilution and buff the outside of the window, wouldn't dare use a citrus based product on tinted window. Then Klearview blue both sides. Sometimes i autosol to remove any scratches. occasionally to give windows an ultra smooth feel i mix citronella oil,kerosene,professional furniture polish and beeswax. I boil a teaspoon of beeswax and then add to the other ingredients and put in a mist spray bottle. Shake it up and apply to the outside edges of the windows and then 4 side to side strokes and all done. Then klearview blue on top of that finishes it off. The end result are windows almost invisible and a smoother feel than buffed paint.
Diamondite
New member
The recent "Guru" Report on glass stated that Diamondite Shield is a silicone protectant. This is absolutely wrong! There is no silicone content in the Shield or any other Diamondite Product. MSDS review proves this.
Bryan L. Schouest, Founder & C.E.O.
Bryan L. Schouest, Founder & C.E.O.
Bill D
Hooked For Life
I apply the shield whenever i have to go on heavily truck traveled highways but I have no idea if it really does anything.