I've been thinking about getting a new buffer (not a rotary). I get stuff from Auto Magic and they carry the dewalt dw443 model. I've also been looking at a cyclo and a PC. I'm mainly interested in light paint correction as the vehicles I'll be using it on are existing customer vehicles that I regularly clean. I have a cheap orbital that I rarely use as honestly it doesn't seem to do anything useful. I've been mobile for about 15 years and have a pretty set list of clients and mainly looking to take care of minor surface scratches and cobwebbing. I've notice the dewalt motor has a higher amp rating then the PC or Cyclo. Also anyone running off an invertor? I have a generator which is fine but would rather not run it to power the buffer since they are only 3-4.5amp.
Dewalt dw443 anyone use it?
- Thread starter PhaRO
- Start date
Hey PhaRO!
Welcome to the board, and hope that you'll get a chance
to share some of your 15 years of knowledge with the rest
of us folk.
While having a rotary and knowing how to use on well
is good, there is not always a need for it. Thats where
ROs' and DAs' come into play. Unfortunately i don't have
a Cyclo or a Dewalt, but I do have a PC and a Makita
DA. Both work quite well when tackling minor defects
like swirling and cobwebbing, plus the added benefit
of being much more gentle to the paint finish. This is
not to say you cannot damage paint with one of these,
but the risk of damage is ignificantly lowered in comparison
to a rotary, even in the hands of a very seasoned person.
With all that said, I would look into getting either a PC
or a Cyclo. there are much more accessories available
for these units, and they will produce good results.
Welcome to the board, and hope that you'll get a chance
to share some of your 15 years of knowledge with the rest
of us folk.
While having a rotary and knowing how to use on well
is good, there is not always a need for it. Thats where
ROs' and DAs' come into play. Unfortunately i don't have
a Cyclo or a Dewalt, but I do have a PC and a Makita
DA. Both work quite well when tackling minor defects
like swirling and cobwebbing, plus the added benefit
of being much more gentle to the paint finish. This is
not to say you cannot damage paint with one of these,
but the risk of damage is ignificantly lowered in comparison
to a rotary, even in the hands of a very seasoned person.
With all that said, I would look into getting either a PC
or a Cyclo. there are much more accessories available
for these units, and they will produce good results.
B
Boss_429
Guest
The DW443 is a fine tool. However, it doesn't have the flexibility that the PC has due to the limited range of speeds.
I believe the 443 has a range of around 4500 to 7000 OPM's (or something like that) as opposed to the PC that a range of 2000 to 6000 OPM's (or something like that). Therefore, at it's lowest speed, the 443 is running at or near the speed that most people use the PC for polishing/light defect removal. At that speed, the 443 is probably not a tool for applying/removing waxes, sealants or glazes.
The Cyclo seems like a tool that is somewhere between the PC and a rotary. Probably not a bad choice.
A good rotary buffer (and learning the "right" way to use one) is a must for serious paint correction. The above tools simply cannot do the paint correction work that a rotary can. Of course, they also can't do the damage that a rotary can in the hands of someone who doesn't understand just what they can do.
I believe the 443 has a range of around 4500 to 7000 OPM's (or something like that) as opposed to the PC that a range of 2000 to 6000 OPM's (or something like that). Therefore, at it's lowest speed, the 443 is running at or near the speed that most people use the PC for polishing/light defect removal. At that speed, the 443 is probably not a tool for applying/removing waxes, sealants or glazes.
The Cyclo seems like a tool that is somewhere between the PC and a rotary. Probably not a bad choice.
A good rotary buffer (and learning the "right" way to use one) is a must for serious paint correction. The above tools simply cannot do the paint correction work that a rotary can. Of course, they also can't do the damage that a rotary can in the hands of someone who doesn't understand just what they can do.
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:shift
Hey PhaRo,
I have been using the Dewalt 443 for 2 months now and love it!!!
Here in Australia, the PC is not available to us (Come on Porter cable, try exporting!!! = more sales!!!), so I purchased the Dewalt. We have other generic brands that were cheaper but they range from 1000 opm- 4000 opm.
I was lucky to get hold of a store display item for $150AuD, the normal RRP was $350AuD plus.
I cannot compare it to the PC, but it has a gr8 speed control and is not too fast for use to correct paint or apply wax / sealant's. Is built well and not too heavy for extended use time. I don't use the dust bag & housing. And it accepts both 6", 6.5", 7" & 8" velcro foams pads.
If you really need to get aggressive u can crank it up to 4 or 5 for serious paint correction, which the PC may not achieve. I usually use the 2, 3 and 4 settings and they r all I've found I need on most occasions.
Best part with these RO's is you achieve a more thorough, even and quick result and your arms don't feel like they're gonna drop off.
As much as i love detailing my cars, spending 8+ hours on a Saturday or Sunday was going overboard. I have decided to set myself a limit of 3-4 hours at any one time and the dewalt helps me achieve this.
In the end purchase whatever RO you like, they all do a similar task. For what it's worth I reckon u won't regret a dewalt or a PC... bye
:shift
Hey PhaRo,
I have been using the Dewalt 443 for 2 months now and love it!!!
Here in Australia, the PC is not available to us (Come on Porter cable, try exporting!!! = more sales!!!), so I purchased the Dewalt. We have other generic brands that were cheaper but they range from 1000 opm- 4000 opm.
I was lucky to get hold of a store display item for $150AuD, the normal RRP was $350AuD plus.
I cannot compare it to the PC, but it has a gr8 speed control and is not too fast for use to correct paint or apply wax / sealant's. Is built well and not too heavy for extended use time. I don't use the dust bag & housing. And it accepts both 6", 6.5", 7" & 8" velcro foams pads.
If you really need to get aggressive u can crank it up to 4 or 5 for serious paint correction, which the PC may not achieve. I usually use the 2, 3 and 4 settings and they r all I've found I need on most occasions.
Best part with these RO's is you achieve a more thorough, even and quick result and your arms don't feel like they're gonna drop off.
As much as i love detailing my cars, spending 8+ hours on a Saturday or Sunday was going overboard. I have decided to set myself a limit of 3-4 hours at any one time and the dewalt helps me achieve this.
In the end purchase whatever RO you like, they all do a similar task. For what it's worth I reckon u won't regret a dewalt or a PC... bye
wifehatescar
My L5-S1 is killing me!
The 443 cuts a little more than a PC but the 443 is louder. Both can be used for cutting or LSP's. I have both machines.
Eliot Ness
Active member
Can the backing plates available for the PC (5/16" diameter shaft) be used on the DeWalt?wifehatescar said:
wifehatescar
My L5-S1 is killing me!
no. the 443 has it's own specific bolt pattern 6" plate.Eliot Ness said:
I appreciate all the info. I do agree that a rotary buffer is a valuable tool. I had a Black and Decker 6138 for 8 years and only used it a few times when I first bought it. There are people that can buff with a rotary and do a great job. I don't have any plans to use a rotary again and sold mine last year after it sat in my garage for 7 years. My biggest problem with rotary is so many cars I've encountered that have been "professional buffed" have tracks. Some look great at first till they are washed a couple times. I am sure I could learn to rotary buff and not leave tracks and in future may try it again. The Dewalt dw443 is $199 from Auto Magic rep that I use. I think that includes the backing plate, not sure if anything else. The Porter Cable is much cheaper from Top of the Line. Originally I was going to just get the cyclo as I thought it would be easier to guide around trim. Since the PC is about half the price and now know you can fit 4" pads on it, it would offer a lot of flexability. In another thread I'll discuss what I plan to do with it more in detail.
as long as you prep the unreachable area's by hand with compound then your rotary job should come out flawless. but if you dont have the confidence from the start with rotary then its best to learn first because the job will come out trashy and botched if your afraid to burn the paint or knock of trim, emblems, moldings...you have to finesse a rotary and she will be good to you i swear
Once the prep work is done how long are you guys buffing for? I know this will vary but trying to get an idea of what time is involved. The work I do now is not as deep as many of you are doing. On the exterior max I'm doing is wash (taking car of bugs, tar, misc crap), sometimes clay then one step the exterior by hand.